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Record temps and you are talking about changing the rear end..

 

I hope the garage has A/C...

 

GARAGE??? Nope just a shade tree and a fan. :scorched:

Edited by wes0778
Added a picture of my "shop"
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Guest scarylarry

Ok we need to know how it is and do you like it....

 

Also does this make the gear higher or lower?

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Well the bike is back together, but still on the stand. I'll ride it tomorrow, to check it out, but there is a clunking noise that sounds like the gears may not be setup correctly. OR it may be something I have done. I had a heck of a time getting the wheel up and into the splines in the final drive. Not easy by myself.

I knew that "Murphy" was lurking around when, 1st try, I stabbed the drive shaft into the u-joint. That was too easy.....:shock3: something later would more than likely go wrong!!!

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Ok we need to know how it is and do you like it....

 

Also does this make the gear higher or lower?

 

It is a lower ratio. Should make for less down shifting when I'm pulling my overloaded trailer.

Engine will be turning 400-500rpm faster @ 70 mph.

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Wes,

It's not hard to get the wheel back into place but there is a simple trick that makes it very easy. Put the axle in. Then that holds it up while you align it and push it in. Then it will stay in place and you can pull the axle back out to get the spacers, caliper bracket and etc. installed.

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Well the bike is back together, but still on the stand. I'll ride it tomorrow, to check it out, but there is a clunking noise that sounds like the gears may not be setup correctly. OR it may be something I have done. I had a heck of a time getting the wheel up and into the splines in the final drive. Not easy by myself.

I knew that "Murphy" was lurking around when, 1st try, I stabbed the drive shaft into the u-joint. That was too easy.....:shock3: something later would more than likely go wrong!!!

 

Drive shaft not engaged with U-joint? :think:

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That's a real possibility. In case you don't know it Wes, the drive shaft will slide in right beside the U-joint instead of in it like it should. Maybe it being so easy to stab on the first try was not a good thing. :)

 

Drive shaft not engaged with U-joint? :think:

They might be right, don't ask me how I know:whistling:

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Drive shaft not engaged with U-joint? :think:

 

That's a real possibility. In case you don't know it Wes, the drive shaft will slide in right beside the U-joint instead of in it like it should. Maybe it being so easy to stab on the first try was not a good thing. :)

 

They might be right, don't ask me how I know:whistling:

 

I'll recheck it, but with the engine off I can turn the rear wheel in neutral, but in gear it will not turn. With the engine running, I can shift into 2nd and stall the engine with the rear brake.

Would it act like that if the drive shaft missed the U-joint?

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Guest tx2sturgis

I will be curious to see if you notice any change in fuel mileage.

 

Others have posted that they seemed to get better fuel mileage with the vmax rear when pulling a trailer than the stock gearing pulling the same trailer.

 

Makes sense since the engine is operating more efficiently at a slighly higher RPM I would assume.

 

 

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I'll recheck it, but with the engine off I can turn the rear wheel in neutral, but in gear it will not turn. With the engine running, I can shift into 2nd and stall the engine with the rear brake.

Would it act like that if the drive shaft missed the U-joint?

you are indeed connected correctly, otherwise with the bike running the rear wheel would not spin when in gear. the 1st time i had my drive shaft out, i miss aligned upon re-installation and had to redo. i'm not familiar with the process to change to a v-max but do you have to set the pinion depth as part of the setup? if so perhaps you have too much backlash causing the clunk ?? best of luck the the new install.

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Well 30 miles on it, 20 of it on the super slab.

IR gun reads 140-152 degrees F. Not sure what it should be but that does not seem TOO hot, for a gear box.

Speedo is right where it was; Bike says 80, GPS says 73. Haven't checked the odometer, yet.

 

So far I love what it has done for the bike! :178:

Now I have a true 1st gear!!!

The only thing is I'll have to get used to the increased rpms in 5th. Right now, in 5th, it feels like I need to shift again.

 

Gonna let it cool off, drain the oil, and see what might be on the magnetic plug.

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Guest tx2sturgis
The speedo will still be the normal 8% or so off. It reads the teef of the the pinion gear.

 

And that is why the reading will change. Only if it read the ring gear or ring gear teeth would it remain the same.

 

 

The final ratio, and wheel rpm, will change for a given driveshaft rotational speed. In this case, the wheel RPM will be less, so the reading should show a higher reading than normal for a given road speed.

 

Or is there something I dont know about how the sensor works?

 

On any bike, when you make a gearing change AFTER the sensor, you will introduce speedometer error. (or possibly decrease it)

 

 

Look on the FAQ page, question #11:

 

 

http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by tx2sturgis
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