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It's more than likely dry drive pins. You'll have to pull the rear wheel, remove the circlip that holds the drive hub into the wheel (probably have to clean off some grease/gunk in order to see it), and pull the hub out. The pins get dry and rusty and then start making that clicking noise. You will need to clean the pins, remove rust if present, also clean and de-rust the holes that the pins fit into. Then use a good grease...Honda Moly 60 is recommended....to lube and then reinstall.

 

Good luck!

 

Joe

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:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that:
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Great article with pictures!

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263]Rear Hub Lubrication - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

 

Also, read this tech service bulletin and pay close attention to the reassembly info:

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705]Rear End Noise - Yamaha TSB - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

 

 

Joe

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Just an FYI - you do not need to pull the drive pumpkin to grease the pins. Just get the rear wheel off, remove the circlip, and lube away. Most members use Honda Moly60 paste for greasing the pins. Can be found at most Honda m'cycle dealers and car dealers. Do a search on here for the Honda car part number.

 

Good luck.

 

RR

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If I can offer one little bit of advice. Get yourself a GOOD set of snap ring pliers. The el cheapo's from the local hardware store just won't cut it. I paid about 7 bucks more for a professional set and it was well worth it.

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Take it to the dealer and have them do it under warranty........MAKEMDOIT.........

 

But MAKE them use Honda Moly60 grease on the Clutch Hub pins and while the final drive is off, on the splines on both ends of the drive shaft and the splines that connect the final drive to the clutch hub.

 

 

 

 

Most members use Honda Moly60 paste for greasing the pins. Can be found at most Honda m'cycle dealers and car dealers. Do a search on here for the Honda car part number.

 

You can also get it at an Acura Car dealership... The Motorcycle dealer will charge about 40% more for the tube of grease than the car dealerships due to lower volume sales.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I went to the dealer armed with printouts from the forum and asked the mechanic to pull the rear drive and grease it with Honda moly-60, which I supplied. BTW, I found the Honda dealership to be very helpful. Anyhoo, I test rode the beast and she is great. No more noise from the rear. Now I need to put miles on her. Again, thanks for the help. I love this bike and this group. :missingtooth:

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  • 4 years later...

bought a new 2012 rsv 0 miles off the show room floor 689 miles into ownership and the noise started in the read diff as stated earlier on the slow roll to a stop took it to the dealer there was not enough oil in the diff to cover the bottom of the pan. dealer filled with new oil 2 days no difference bullitain says to loosen the axle nut loosen the 4 diff bolts and tighten the axle nut the tighten 4 diff bolts still no change ordered new rear diff dealer installed it 120 miles later same noise was back.

also carb over flow lines were routed in the wrong place allowed fuel to drip on the inside the left lower leg the fuel destroyed the abs plastic. now i find I have no oil pressure warning light.

now at 1700 miles starting to worry about having bought a lemon

 

Rider838:confused24:

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Yamaha sent a factory rep from Florida to look at my bike a few years ago. I had five rear diffs within 16,000 miles. The rep said to grease the rear pins at every tire change with honda moly grease.

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bought a new 2012 rsv 0 miles off the show room floor 689 miles into ownership and the noise started in the read diff as stated earlier on the slow roll to a stop took it to the dealer there was not enough oil in the diff to cover the bottom of the pan. dealer filled with new oil 2 days no difference bullitain says to loosen the axle nut loosen the 4 diff bolts and tighten the axle nut the tighten 4 diff bolts still no change ordered new rear diff dealer installed it 120 miles later same noise was back.

also carb over flow lines were routed in the wrong place allowed fuel to drip on the inside the left lower leg the fuel destroyed the abs plastic. now i find I have no oil pressure warning light.

now at 1700 miles starting to worry about having bought a lemon

 

Rider838:confused24:

You do not have a lemon, you just have a very stupid dealer. All you need to do is spend a bit of time here talking with us.

 

BTW- there is no oil pressure light, it is an oil LEVEL light. But it should still work.

 

And those carb overflow/vent lines were NOT routed wrong. Your problem was the carbs needed to be cleaned and fixed. The gas does not hurt the ABS plastic, but I have seen it wrinkle the paint occasionally (not sure why, but I suspect it is a problem with the paint). In those few cases, the cowling has always been replaced under warranty. Cracks in the cowling or broken middle mounting tab are not all that uncommon, but these are ALWAYS caused by improperly aligned mounting tabs so that the cowling has to be flexed to get the bolts in. Easily fixed by gentle bending of the top tab near the air filters.

Goose

Edited by V7Goose
typo and more info
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Yamaha sent a factory rep from Florida to look at my bike a few years ago. I had five rear diffs within 16,000 miles. The rep said to grease the rear pins at every tire change with honda moly grease.

Ediddy you must know my wife but she want's to ride and the bike has to be right. yes the dealer is not the sharpest what's worst is I have my own bike shop and this work is under warranty for five years what do you do. Just going to wait for the area rep and see what happens

 

Rider838

2012 rsv

96 1200 custom

2003 sv1000

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[ATTACH]79580[/ATTACH]well got tired of the noise so I took the wheel off myself and removed the clutch hub found some interesting wear (see pics) wear on the wheel at 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock clock wise wear on the hub was at 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock so I lubed every thing rotated the hub 180 degrees and reassembled so far no noise

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