home made set up for wet setting floats on the bench

I just finished rebuilding my carbs and decided I wanted to wet set my float levels rather than using the dry setup technique. Good thing too because while doing the settup I discovered one of my new needle and seats was defective, the needle would stick in the seat. sometimes closed and sometimes open. Had this occurred while on the bike I would have had to take it all out again

So using an old well cleaned out fire extinguisher modified and fitted with a schrader valve, to supply gas under pressure to the carb I put this setup together.

I pressurized it to 3.25 lbs using a small bicycle pump and by the time the float bowl filled the pressure equalized at 2.5 lbs.

One last thing to remember,.. put the proper fire extinguisher back in the wall bracket when your done ........Just say'n

The tool for windows 7 will work on windows 8

https://imageresizer.codeplex.com/releases/view/30247

Thanks Wayne but I discovered in windows eight if you highlight the pic click edit it takes you to paint were you can resize it. Downside is it replaces the pic with the resized one were I remember the tool for xp just placed the resized pic beside the original. So I created another folder copied the pics to it and resized them there.

Neat set up, works good and is simple.

So when a set of carbs are dropped of, how long before there done ?

Brad

Hard to say. Setting the floats doesn't take long at all, maybe an hour give or take for all four carbs, but rebuilding the carb's is another story. I am pretty sure I could do a set in half the time it took me to do mine since mine was somewhat of a learning process not having rebuilt venture carb's prior to this. Carl on the other hand is probably A lot faster at it because he has done few carb's now and most likely has it down to a science by now.

Ben, I will need the setup by fall...

You Know were to find me Bobby.

One last thing to remember,.. put the proper fire extinguisher back in the wall bracket when your done ........Just say'n

Bwaaaaahaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaa!

Interesting setup, but what am I looking at?

Feeding fuel under pressure with the fire extinguisher (very cool modification) does what over having a hanging fuel bottle?

Once you see the float level needs adjusted, do you need to open up the bowl, make the adjustment, then replace the bowl?

Fill in some details please.

Thanks,

RR

Interesting setup, but what am I looking at?

 

Feeding fuel under pressure with the fire extinguisher (very cool modification) does what over having a hanging fuel bottle?

 

Once you see the float level needs adjusted, do you need to open up the bowl, make the adjustment, then replace the bowl?

 

Fill in some details please.

 

Thanks,

 

RR

That is an interesting setup... Personally I have used empty Hypoid rear end lube bottles with the tapered nozzles for many years for this... I simply cut a section of gas line off the 50 foot spool hangin in the shop, slip it over the nozzle on the empty container,, make sure the container is cleaned out cause ya dont want rear end grease in your carb(s). Fill the container, attach the gas line to the carb, squeeze the bottle until the fuel fills the bowl and you feel the float valve close because the flow stops. Hold pressure against the closed valve to insure the needle and seat are functioning properly, remove the hose from the carb, put a plug in the hose still connected to the container and stick it in on the shelf for the next test session. Drain the carb and check for proper amount of fuel (checking float height) and all done...

Easy to do even in the pits of a MX track...

That is an interesting setup... Personally I have used empty Hypoid rear end lube bottles with the tapered nozzles for many years for this... I simply cut a section of gas line off the 50 foot spool hangin in the shop, slip it over the nozzle on the empty container,, make sure the container is cleaned out cause ya dont want rear end grease in your carb(s). Fill the container, attach the gas line to the carb, squeeze the bottle until the fuel fills the bowl and you feel the float valve close because the flow stops. Hold pressure against the closed valve to insure the needle and seat are functioning properly, remove the hose from the carb, put a plug in the hose still connected to the container and stick it in on the shelf for the next test session. Drain the carb and check for proper amount of fuel (checking float height) and all done...

Easy to do even in the pits of a MX track...

Is there a spec on how much fuel is supposed to be in the bowl? This seems simple but I am missing how this actually measures the float height.

RR

Is there a spec on how much fuel is supposed to be in the bowl? This seems simple but I am missing how this actually measures the float height.

 

RR

I use marked for accuracy syringes (find em at an Ag store used for horse doctoring = CHEAP,,, like these on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-12-1-oz-wide-nose-reusable-Syringes-to-administer-dog-cat-horse-medicine/253829279696?hash=item3b19676fd0:g:qBUAAOSwMmBVh0w4:sc:USPSFirstClass!49445!US!-1 ) attached to the drain on the carb to pull fuel from the carb and then measure it. Keeping track of how much a given carb bowl should have in it if it is doing its thing properly is as simple as writing down what it has when running properly so you have a number to compare to..

I also use these syringes to clean my carbs occasionally. On the side mount vacuum slide CV carbs like on our Ventures this is really easy to do - just draw the fuel from the carb drain, look at measurement on syringe to see if float height is good (anwser to your question = if the float height is improperly set or other problem happening involving amount of fuel in bowl = you will see it by how much fuel is measured in syringe = float height determines jamount = make sense?) and fuel amount is proper, remove metering rod/slide assembly (PERFECT TIME TO CHECK DIAPHRAM CONDITION), inect carb cleaner into drain with syringe until carb cleaner flows from metering rod hole/emulsion tube (this will assure your getting cleaner into low speed passages), suck the cleaner out and note how much cleaner it took to overflow carb, squirt back in,,, other three carbs dont HAVE to have slides removed to clean them now that you know how much cleaner to inject.. Take notes so next time you can clean the carbs very quickly and easily.......

Interesting setup, but what am I looking at?

 

Feeding fuel under pressure with the fire extinguisher (very cool modification) does what over having a hanging fuel bottle?

 

Once you see the float level needs adjusted, do you need to open up the bowl, make the adjustment, then replace the bowl?

 

Fill in some details please.

 

Thanks,

 

RR

1st I use the pressurized set up in order to duplicate the 2.5 PSI delivery pressure of the fuel pump. The hose connection at the fire extinguisher is connected to an internal tube which goes to the bottom of the inside of the cylinder. the schrader valve pressurizes the cylinder causing the fuel to go up the tube and supply pressure to the carb at 2.5 PSI.

2nd the level is checked by measuring the distance from the top of the fuel level in the clear tube to the center of the diaphragm (In My case the center line is actually marked on the float bowl). This the fuel level should be 14 mm +/- 0.5 mm below the center line. and yes you do have to remove the bowel to make an adjustment but since the carb is on the bench its no big deal and I feel this method best duplicates actual operating conditions of the carb.