pofarm

May God bless and guide the two of you through the rest of your lives together.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/drstrust/smilies%20and%20emoticons/whssign.gif Yamaha used left hand threads on the throttle side mirror.

Looking and sounding great! Keep up the good work.

I had a blue 1975 model. It was fully dressed with a Vetter fairing, saddle bags and rear trunk. It also had a custom king/queen seat. The oil galley to the cam plugged up and fried the cam and cam cradles. I parted it out on ebay for more than I had in it.

I had the same problem. The voltage dropped off as the rpms rose. I tapped into the regulator output wires (red and black wires) at the regulator by soldering in 12 gauge wires and ran the new wires to the battery terminals, red to positive through a 30 amp fuse, and black to negative. Leave the original wiring in place. This solved my problem. Another thing that can cause the problem is the stator wiring plug. It is a white plug with the three yellow stator wires connected through it. It is located in front of the battery box, down low. Kind of hard to get to. These are notorious for corroding and losing connection. The connection can get bad enough to melt the plug. If this is your problem the best remedy is to cut the plug out and solder the wires, covering them with shrink tubing. If either of these are your problem, a new stator or regulator isn't going to fix it.

I peel the membrane off then slice them about 1/4 inch thick. I then put them in milk/egg mixture. Remove from mixture and roll in fine crushed saltine crackers. Deep fry until golden brown and enjoy!

I hope you aren't still waiting on the ones I sent you?

I got the payment. I'll get the shims in the mail in the morning.

I have the 275 also. How does $10.00 shipped for both shims sound? Sorry it took so long to reply. For some reason I'm not getting notifications of new posts.

I have a couple of 260, one 258, and one 262. I have others, too. Let me know. I still have your address.

You can order the clamps cheaper from VTwin Manufacturing. I got my clamps from them.

Dyna 3000 and V Max rear gears from http://www.rmsportmax.com/.

That's a tough call. If the jetting is too lean your mileage will suffer. If it is way too lean the engine may be damaged as well. If it's too rich your mileage will also suffer, as well as fouling plugs. It's a fine line that takes experimenting to get right, or the proper instruments to measure the exhaust emissions and motor performance. There are too many variables to say what will and won't work. The intake set up, carb set up, and exhaust set up all play a role in getting the proper jetting.

I dropped the tool off at the Post Office this morning.

Good news! I dug around a bit and found the tool. PM me your address and I will send it to you.

I like the sound of that exhaust! Are you going to do the Big Foot Mod on the air box? I'm thinking that you will need the air flow for the 32mm carbs. I have the valve shim tool, but I don't know where it is right now. I just moved and had to empty my tool boxes to move them. I don't know what moving box the tool is in. If I knew where it was I would happily loan it to you. As far as the shims, any bike shop should have them. They are 25mm diameter. You will just have to know what thickness you need. How are you using your bike? Mostly two up? Planning to pull a trailer? Don't use vmax cams if you need the low end torque. You are better off keeping your stock cams or swapping in newer Venture cams. The vmax cams are more for high rpm power. The only way to get better mileage is to get your carb jetting set right. After you get all of your air box, carb swap, exhaust, and cam (if you swap cams) work done, you will either have to rejet using trial and error, or pay someone who has the diagnostic tools to rejet the carbs properly. I don't remember if you have the Dyna 3k TCI. It and the rear gear swap are the two best things I have done to my bike for performance. http://s15.photobucket.com/user/pofarm/library/Royal

I'm a member here, too. I just saw your post on Delphi first.

I have played around with this software. It is comparable to older versions of autocad. http://a9cad.en.softonic.com/

Best bet is to keep an eye on eBay. Any of the 4 into 2 pipes will interchange. You will have to fab mounts for the mufflers, though.

The main tank doesn't have to be on the bike for it to run. The main tank drains into the reserve tank. The fuel pump draws out of the reserve tank at all times. The fuel level sender in the main tank shuts off the pump relay when the fuel level in the main tank gets too low. When you switch over to reserve on the handlebar switch, all you are actually doing is bypassing the pump relay and turning the pump back on.

Here are the factory service manual and Haynes manual in .pdf http://www.mediafire.com/?hhz22uvjbx7g646 http://www.mediafire.com/?b70ph1g536mz19s Carb removal (with pictures) http://viragotech.com/newtech/removing%20the%20carburetors.htm

I got my Nexen 165/80-15 from http://www.tirebuyer.com

Anything you want to know about Viragos can be found at these two sites. Both have really knowledgeable and helpful members. You will have to become a member to access all the info this site has to offer. http://viragotechforum.com/index.php http://forums.delphiforums.com/vocroom/start

The Shindengen regulator is not plug and play. You also have to upgrade the wiring. The part number is FH012AA, but I understand that the manufacturer has superseeded it with part number FH020AA. Here is a link to the parts you need. http://www.roadstercycle.com/

Going to be riding down with a group of friends Friday morning.