BratmanXj
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Posts posted by BratmanXj
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On 9/11/2022 at 10:40 AM, cowpuc said:
Since its car tired on the rear and no use for motorcycle tire on the front now I would look at going dark side on the front too. Wayyy higher mileage plus more surface contact with the car tire may be a plus.. maybe...
"Double Darkside" is usually running a REAR motorcycle tire on the front of the rig backwards, where as rear tire compound is geared for milage while applying power. I'm currently running this tire in reverse rotation.
https://a.co/d/gZR9PON
As for the original question from Don, I don't see how you could mount a 150 on the narrower 18" Stratoliner wheel vs the stock Venture 16" wheel.-
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2 hours ago, Freebird said:
I admit that is an impressive bike. I still have to wonder about the choice of engines though. It's still an air cooled twin cylinder engine. I've never owned a BMW. Do they get hot like the VTwins do? Do BMW make a bike with a water cooled engine? The price is impressive as well but to add the equipment that at least some of us would want, cruise control, reverse, etc., It would be in the $30,000 range. Still not bad as compared to similar bikes. I also worry about maintenance costs. I've heard nightmares about BMW maintenance.
I have a Ural 750 flat twin (like an old /2 BMW) and while it runs hot there is no discomfort to the rider like a V-twin. All my Vs have cooked my inner leg since the rear cylinder doesn't get much airflow under the tank or seat. The Flat engine is hanging out in the breeze so both cylinders run about the same temps. Any hot air raising off them at a stop is out front of my knees and most of the airflow at speed is going around or under my boots. The Oil Head flat twin engines are fairly easy to maintain; BMW maintenance horror stories are more related to Tupperware access, the sportier engines, and paralever rear ends. The latest GS incarnation has a water cooled flat twin.
I like the looks of that 1800 BMW, but I'm 6'2" and as noted, you have NOWHERE else to go with you feet other than behind the cylinders or way up high over them. I've sat on the bike, its pretty comfy, but I'd probably need to adjust the legs at some point. I guess that's the trade-off for such a low center of gravity. -
2 hours ago, Marcarl said:
13.5 with the engine running is not out of norm. I would check connections first. Let the battery sit overnight and then check the voltage, it should be at 12.6 for a full battery, 12.2 is a dead battery.
Yup, while I was in there doing all the diagnostics I scrubbed the connectors, battery terminals, etc. I know every Yamaha I've had was a weak charging system and they needed a GOOD battery to run right, but with only the standard items, 2x35 spot lamps, and the factory radio I was only 13v at the battery at 3,000 rpms. To me that seemed very weak... hopefully it's just a dying battery. I still wouldn't be apposed to putting a beefier charging system on the bike, since I plan to keep the bike a lot longer.
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Bike cut out on my way home the other day and did the diagnostics for the the Stator & Regulator. All the individual tests came out within spec for the stator & regulator, nothing looked heat damaged on the connector. I'm only getting 13.5v at the battery with everything off and 13+ once I turn on the spot lamps and radio. The battery is about 3yrs old DEKA AGM, I'm going to replace it because it could introduce some charging issues if bad.
In doing my research for stators it looks like Ricks or Buckeye were the go-to options, but all the threads on stator replacements were from the early '10s. I did speak with Buckeye and the whole kit for a Stator and new Regulator runs about $550. I did a quick search on Ricks website comes out around $330 for their Hot Shot stator, OEM style regulator & gasket. Does anyone have any pro or cons for either option if necessary?
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To @saddlebum response, I agree that its not a cut and dry philosophy, every brand/model of tire has a slightly different tire diameter and introduce another variable in the Speedo/Odo relationship.
I used a SpeedoRDR just like @RDawson, Installed the current smaller diameter darkside tire and compared stock speedo to my Zumo660 tracked speed on a 60 mile run. Did the calcs provided in the instructions for like a 12% adjustment. My speedo is dead on, but I've never compared the final result on the Odo since I'm over 80k miles anyways that it didn't mater for value of the bike. -
I'm not sure what your paying for D404s but I never really like the ride of them on my '99 Venture. I've had decent luck with Shinko 230 Tourmasters that use to be $90 but right now appear to be $115. They have an 80 load rating, which is the higher end of the spectrum of what's available in the correct size for these bikes. I'd get about 8-9k miles per rear. There's also the 777 Heavy Duty available for slightly more money. I've never spent a significant amount of time on one but they've had good reviews on here asl well.
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The Speedo-healer is a double edge sword, fix the speedometer error and it introduces odometer error as they are related systems. I am currently running one since I'm darkside on a smaller diameter rear tire. When I switch back to a MC tire I'll end up taking it back out and live with the 3-5mph inaccuracy of the speedo.
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When I first purchased my '99 it had a short eBay special windshield. I could ride fine without a helmet (non-helmet state) but it would shake me senseless with any of my helmets on. Ended up getting a nice deal on a short Clearview with vent off this forum and all the buffeting went away.
1. The Clearview had a recurve on the top to kick the wind up and over your head
2. Its wider than any of the stock shields to kick more wind to the side
3. The vent eliminates (or lessens) the low pressure bubble behind the fairing & windshield, again smoothing out the airflow around your body & helmet. Most people get upset when they don't feel a discernable flow of air when they open the vent thinking its going to be like a cars A/C system.... its more about fluid dynamics and air pressure control.
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Movable training wheels... no real world experience but I've seen a few write-ups on the system.
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I did the work myself over the course of a winter. When I bought the bike the steering was LOOSE where you could feel a click when rocking the bike. Added a HID headlight, GPS with Buddy Rich, and Spot Lamps while I had the whole front end apart.
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23 hours ago, saddlebum said:
One should also keep in mind the different effects of a CT tire on different bikes may also have to do with the rake/caster angle of the front forks. Because of this difference some bikes may be more accommodating to a CT tire than others.
Exactly my point. I've been on bikes where a CT was a non-issue, but the Venture just doesn't seem to respond well to it. I don't knock the guys who swear by it, because for THEIR BIKE its a perfectly acceptable option. I don't tell people it doesn't work, but that it doesn't for FOR MY SITUATION.
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8 hours ago, Papa Fred said:
All good points to worry...uh..think about. I haven't pulled the forks apart to check the bearing condition, @RDawson. My brain starts to hurt when I think about the steps involved in gutting the front end. I've read a number of comments on progressive springs for the forks, and I should really consider those along with the new neck bearings. My hesitation on taking that apart is probably a twin brother to my hesitation on pulling the carbs out for a re-build. I've never had ANY carb apart, and the thought of screwing up four of them is frightening. On the other hand we learn by doing, right? This bike has taught me how to install a clutch, a stator, an electronic fuel pump and a new rear diff. How hard could the forks be....😬
You're correct @cowpuc, I should pick Earl's brain on detailing that rear end. In the meantime... GEEZERS UNITE!!!👴
Cheers....
I've got 75k on my Venture. Swing arm was taken apart, greases and reassembled. I had the front end apart and installed Sonic springs and new steering head bearings at 55k miles. I've gone down the final-drive alignment when the drive seals when out at 70k. I have a Stratoliner 130-18" front wheel and a Hagon rear shock. At this point I think I've got a pretty stable setup on the bike and it just doesn't respond well (or to my liking) of having a CT.
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I've had similar experiences as you with running a CT on the back of the Venture. I've been on Vulcans and Valkyries running CT rears that felt stable and planted, but so far my experiences with the Venture have been less than stellar. I've previously had the Nexian 165/80-15 and assumed the squirrely handling was attributed to the tire being slightly taller than OEM and working against the 130 (narrower) front tire I have mounted. I went up and down the pressure range with no real solution. The bike was perfectly rideable up until 60-65mph where it became a handful wanting to wobble. I was given a free BFG 155-80-15 and currently have it on the rear of my bike. With the slightly less tall rear tire I'm stable up until about 75mph but with the same minor-wobble after that. Again, tried the same up and down in pressure ranges and the bike just doesn't feel as stable as with a MC or as stable as the other bikes I've been on with CT.
I'll be replacing the rear soon and going back to my Shinko 230 Tourmaster. I came, I tried, I did not like running a CT on the back of the Venture.
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19 minutes ago, Mike G in SC said:
Well,,,, last year,,,, NO VENDORS. Or,,, literally only a few. One helmet tent and maybe a Com vendor and earplug guy, maybe a lawyer. Only minor on food vendor at $$$$ prices.
Same here in the Chicago area, went to the indoor event in '20 before the shut down and got looked at weird when I was trying to size a helmet for 7yr old son...it was only display models at the few venders there. I had friends go to the outdoor '21 event and said, like you, it was basically a test drive event and nothing more.
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13 hours ago, AGrengs said:
I have the large Clearview with the vent also. I find there is little noticeable airflow through the vent and would go without if I were to do it again. It is a bug catcher and a pain to clean. This is just my opinion however and even my wife doesn't value that.
I don't get much airflow through the vent, but I didn't expect to. My knowledge of fluid dynamics (us wonderful engineers!) knew that, in certain conditions, it's just enough airflow to break up the low pressure "bubble" behind the fairing a quell buffeting of the high speed air going over the windshield. This was the #1 reason why I went with a Clearview in the 1st place, having tried various other brands & heights that just didn't work for me.
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Brakes Brakes Brakes.... Just like the tires, the rubber lines can dry-rot as well. There's reasonably prices braided stainless options available on this forum. At minimum, flush fluids and new pads.
The clutch diaphragm springs are notorious for getting weak. If you feel a slipping clutch at higher RPMs its mostly likely a bad spring and fairly easy to replace. With that low a mileage your friction plates are good and replacements springs range from $40 to $140 for the Barrnett pressure plate (that I believe is overkill).Clutch is hydraulic, check the slave cylinder for leaks. Left side between the clutch cover and the trans cover, you can see a rubber flap but behind the base of the rear cylinder in my attached photo. Again, not expensive but could be a potential shifting/slipping issue on a bit that's sat.
The engine cooling fins are "fake" bolt on items and there are rubber cooling plugs under them. If you see coolant sitting on base of the cylinders don't be to alarmed. The plugs are inexpensive and and a quick fix. You can see the little rubber & brass insert's at the base of the front & rear cylinders in my photo.
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On 9/24/2021 at 6:46 PM, djh3 said:
I just use 3/4" P clamps from home depot and a couple 1/4"x20 bolts in the HD factory bracket. Making those hockey stick bracket was going to be a day project. Once I checked into it the P clamps were easy and cheap.
Brother-in-law works in a machine shop and I'm an engineer with AutoCAD.... gave him a scale drawings and had brackets the next day.
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Also there should be drawings on the internet for the fabricated metal brackets to fit HD mounts to the Venture mounts. Some guys have used P-clamps around the saddlebag brackets with good luck too.
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1 hour ago, Freebird said:
I hoped a full touring bike was coming with fairing, trunk, all the goodies but it never happened and now there seems to be only sport models.
Agreed, had the offered something like Honda did with the Valkyrie, a standard, a touring, and the "interstate" I probably would have been in for one.
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When I purchased my '99 it had the same "super sized" windshield on it and I hated looking through it. I purchased an inexpensive e-Bay 10" shield that was just below my nose (I'm 6'2) and HATED that thing.... Yes I could see over it but the wind management was horrible and I couldn't ride more than an hour without getting a headache. If I had to wear a full-face helmet it would shake me so bad I couldn't go above 45mph. I ended up getting a 19" clearview (they measure the height different) and it's just above my nose but I can easily see over it. The shield has a recurve to it so the top rolls up steeper than the rest of the shield and pushes the wind up and over your head, I also have the vent which eliminates the low pressure behind the fairing and smooths out the airflow.
I don't have any good photos, but here's one during installation.
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31 minutes ago, SpencerPJ said:
Haha, I would like to take one for a ride tho.
They had a demo day in the western burbs of Chicago a few years back and I went with some riding buddies who had either retro-classis or sport-touring Triumphs. I always liked my buddies Trophy 1200 sport tourer, the 3-cyl bikes had a unique wail and power delivery than the typical jap I-4 bikes, and the retro bikes were just old school cool.
So I sign up and I grab the Rocket Tour on our 1st trip out, now it's "detuned" and only 105hp but 155ft-lb, but I figured I'd tiptoe into the big bike. They actually took us on the highway and I didn't even realize I was running 3rd gear at 80mph the engine was that smooth and just kept pulling. 2nd time out I grab the standard Rocket and lifted the front wheel at one point and actually out-accelerated a 675 Daytona. That bike was just to much fun, but so big and fast I would have EASILY gotten myself in to much trouble un-chaperoned.
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On 5/3/2021 at 8:32 PM, Steve S said:
Hello Dj.
Are these complete headsets with helmet speakers and microphone? If so I would like to have them.
Steve
Sorry to Hijack
Steve,
Are you looking for a full face setup? I have a spare complete set with a wired mic that you Velcro to the chin bar. All my boom mics are in use. -
1 hour ago, Freebird said:
I always used the Double H.
I run EBC Double H on the fronts, but I've always preferred the softer braking standard organic pads
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I've had very good luck with both the Shinko 777HD and the 230 Tourmaster. I actually liked the ride of the 230 Tourmaster better.
58 minutes ago, bpate4home said:I went Dark on my '06 using a Nexan CT. I was very pleased with the performance and the wear. I had a break down on a trip and the only place around would not work on it because it had a CT on it. I had 18K on it and still had 3/4 tread remaining. If I would have know how easy the repair was at that time I would have put many more miles on it.
I've tried the Nexan but the setup on my bike was not happy with that tire no mater what tire pressure I tried. I do have a 130-18" Stratoliner front wheel, HD Hagon rear shock, Sonic fork springs so I'm NOT stock in any way. I'm currently running the BFG and I think the slightly smaller diameter squats the back end of the bike a little, hence more trail in the steering, and the bike is a little more accepting of the tire.
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leaking fluid from the left cover
in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Posted
Why are you spending so much to fix it.... Penny's work too!