BratmanXj
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Posts posted by BratmanXj
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4 hours ago, saddlebum said:
Did you check your bearings before putting it back together. Other than just plain old age, worn bearings are also a common cause of seal failure. Also be sure the is no groove on the wheel hub were the seal rides, or the new seal will fail.
Also don't forget to leave the 4 drive tube nuts just loose enough to allow movement when you snug up the axle shaft. after snugging up the axle shaft tighten them up and finally fully torque up your axle shaft.
The rubber on the old seal was just shot, no plasticity left. The output hub spun smoothly with very little play, there was no scoring that I could see or feel. I don't believe there was anything detrimental to the operation of the final drive that caused the seal failure. The bike is a '99 with 80k miles; I sorta know the old owner and the bike was used for long trips infrequently and sat for 3yrs before I bought it with 40k miles.
Buddy helped me re-assemble the bike last night, but nothing has been torqued down yet... Had a hold-down strap tear and break while the bike was up on the lift!!!! -
After a 2 week delay when Amazon lost my new scissor lift so I could pull the rear wheel on the stand I FINALLY got around to pulling the final drive. When I pulled the rear wheel the bike just poured gear-lube. The old seal was in such bad shape half of it fell out and the other half I was able to pick out with my nail. New one pressed in and bike is almost back together....
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I've used the "high mileage touring" tires like the E3 and the Commander2 on past bikes and they never felt THIS different. Again, I have this bike set up kind of weird with the HD rear shock and the thinner front tire so when you add in a stiff-side walled rear tire it REALLY sets the back end up high. I've since switched back to my Tourmaster230 rear that has the same 80 load rating. I get a solid year of riding out of 1 tire so the relatively short service life compared to the touring tires doesn't bother me.
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On 3/30/2021 at 12:37 AM, saddlebum said:
On another note I am curious about wht you don't like about the E4. I am on my second set have been quite happy with them other than I found after a while the rubber got hard before the tire wore out and started loosing grip in the corners.
The bike just never seemed planted on the E4, always just a little bit squirrely. I typically run "softer" Shinko 777 or 230 tires and will get 8-10k per $80 tire. I figured I'd splurge and buy a good tire this time. I've put 5k on it and it still feels like a brand new tire I'm trying to break in. I have a Hagon HD shock and a Stratoliner 130-18 front wheel, so my experiences on how my bike handle are a bit different than people with relatively stock bikes.
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On 3/28/2021 at 12:22 PM, saddlebum said:
If the seal is worn the usually factors are age, bearing wear or (and this may be a bit far fetched ) misaligned pumpkin. Before you reassemble it, loosen off the four nuts on the drive shaft tube just enough to allow some rotational movement in the tube. snug up your axle but not to full torque. re tighten the driveshaft tube nuts and then perform final torque on the axle nut. Having said all that don,t forget to check the axle bearings before you reassemble it.
Bike is a '99 with 78k miles, it started showing up last year when I installed a new tire and much worse this year after another tire change (That Dunlop E4 is the worst feeling tire I've ever ridden on). Everything else feels good and sturdy on the final drive, no play in the hub or the wheel bearings. I did have the whole back end off 25k miles ago to grease and torque the swing arm. If the differential were misaligned it should have shown up closer to that service than now. The bike is up and taken apart, new seal is on order...if something odd creeps up I'll make sure to post it up here.
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@RedRider Thank you thank you, I did pull my rear wheel off and inspect. I must have over-tightened the axle last time and put a nice wear groove in that seal.
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I originally had the u-bolt style mounts down at the bottom of the handlebars next to the risers, but it was awkward to access the ignition switch.
I later replaced them with Ram clutch top mounts. The right brake-master typically has a Ram X-Mount to hold my phone and the right clutch-master has the Garmin Zumo 660 Mount that is permanently tied into the bike.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CMNXIO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_065GV8G554SE5MFV607D
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I'm not finding any video's specific to the Venture (or similar Vmax) on the seal replacement, but I assume most of the Yamaha gear driven bikes have a similar setup. I found the following video for a Super Tenere that shows an externally removable oil seal and a very close part number on the Tenere vs the Venture. So this should be good news on replacing my oil seal.
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Middle of last year I started to see some grime build-up under the bike, 1st long ride this year and the drive side of the rear tire is covered in oil. Haven't pulled the rear tire yet but I believe the oil seal on the final drive is starting to go out. I'm looking through the manual and R&R of the oil seal isn't very well defined. Can this be replaced "externally" or does the final drive need to come apart to replace from inside the faceplate? I believe the drive hub oil seal is 93102-70167-00
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On 3/9/2021 at 11:44 AM, SpencerPJ said:
I have tied off the clutch lever with a rope, let sit overnight, and most all the air bled out. Crack the reservoir lid. In the morning, reseal reservoir lid, release rope slowly. squeeze 1 time and hold, release the banjo bolt to get that high point air out.
I have done the same one a few bikes over the years. I'd get good fluid movement on the system but it never really was "good" feel on the lever. Let it sit over-night and the last bit of air would typically work its way out.
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EBC makes a heavy duty direct swap diaphragm spring. I used EBC on my last Kawasaki Concours when the factory spring blew up.
Barnet makes a coil spring pressure plate that is a bolt on replacement. I've run this on heavily modified Road Star Warriors over the years with good results, many on this forum have run this same plate.My current RSV has the "Double D" modification. I took one of the used the Rs Warrior diaphragm springs I had laying around and doubled up the stock diaphragm spring on my '99.
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My little guy has gotten to the point of showing the girls HIS motorcycle at car shows....
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13 minutes ago, Pasta Burner said:
The 10mm was the predecessor to the .40 mainly used by the FBI. That’s what I recall when I bought my .40 years ago. Because it’s less common I was wondering if it’s actually easier to find right now.
Correct, the FBI put out ballistic requirements after the 1986 Miami shooting and were testing 9mm, .45 ACP and some .38 Spc +P when the agent in charge threw his own 10mm pistol into the mix. FBI requested S&W make a lower velocity round based on their existing 4500 series handgun.
My local Cabela's is like watching hyenas pounce on a kill when 9mm, .45ACP & .22 gets put out on the shelf. There is typically stock of .40S&W or 10mm on the shelf. -
Took advantage of this weekends 10-12" snowfall to get out and do a little bit of riding.
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The mounts for the latest Sena bluetooth headsets have an AUX out for earbuds. I've been playing with my new headsets with the earbuds on a 1/2 helmet since I typically wear ear plugs anyways.
BUT the newest Sena 50 line supposedly has better quality speakers over the 20 & 30. Also Sena also makes a helmet mount for the 20s, 30k & 50s models of intercoms that has a second INPUT so you can run either the bluetooth AND the stock bike's intercom, or both together. I'll be picking up some of these later this year so I can swap back and forth between the two bikes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sena-UNIVERSAL-HELMET-GOLDWING-SC-A0317/dp/B07FS8B4XX/ref=pd_ybh_a_22?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=904G3CNHR3FGRQK4WPDT -
On 1/15/2021 at 12:57 PM, bpate4home said:
A draw back on this would be the image quality @720p.
720p looks fine on the 4" viewing screen, on most any smart phone, tablet or laptop. Are you planning on watching your dash cam on a wide screen super high def large screen TV? Is 1080i worth 3x the price?
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The last few weeks I've been heading into the office early at 6:30am before the sun comes up. Had to stop at a job site today so left the house in daylight. REALLY debated riding in on the URAL.
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I was looking at these and talking with a company rep at the 2019 Chicago IMS show. Looked pretty cool and not very expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZP6BCS/?coliid=I3JMI5KD4RJ4ER&colid=2UY1ATFEFRR5P&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it -
I got lucky and found a guy parting out a Ural local; purchased spare front & pusher wheels and mounted winter soft knobby duel-sport tires. I run hard street rubber during the summer and swap over in 20-min for winter & off-road riding with my KLR owning buddies. Last year I may have caused an accident or two of people taking pictures while taking a quick ride to get gas for the snowblower in the middle of a 10" snow storm.
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Snow's easy with a 3rd wheel to hold you up....
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On 12/5/2020 at 10:31 PM, labill said:
Forgot. When the dogs ride with us I can unplug the extension and the wife can use it. The dogs don't like headsets.
labill
We need to figure out how to add Google Translate to their headsets so they can understand us!
I ended up finding a YouTube review from a Goldwing guy who uses Sena 20s AND the wired connection to his 2016 Goldwing. It explained that the helmet speakers can be used with BOTH the the 20s or 30k Bluetooth and utilize all the on-board features of the bike with the wired connection. So I have a set of 30k on order for my Christmas present and will report back when I get the cable connection to use with the Venture. Now the kiddo and I can stay connected on both bikes and I don't completely abandon the Ventures on-board features or have to spend $500 on setting up the bike with FreeWire boxes for rider & passenger.
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I'm researching a com system that does everything I need and hoping someone here might be able to verify and/or clarify what I'm finding. My 6yr has been riding with me for 2 years on the Ural sidecar rig and now that he's big enough also on the back of the Venture. The wife &I have wired headsets for the Venture, so the kid this year has gotten accustom to being able to chat with me. When he's riding with me to the family cottage we keep in touch with the wife via CB so I don't want to abandon the bikes features.
I'd like to get a set of Sena 20s bluetooth intercoms for use on the Ural and possibly dirt-bikes that are in the near future, with multiple helmet clamps across various setups. It is my understanding that the Sena can HARDWIRE into the Harley/Venture 5-pin setup with the following kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JUXP9SK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So with a set of 20s: https://www.amazon.com/Sena-Motorcycle-Bluetooth-Communication-System/dp/B0736L8WCS/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=sena+s20&qid=1606534767&sr=8-12I can run bluetooth communication on the other bikes, then hardwire into the Venture and use its intercom/CB/Radio with the same in-helmet speakers?
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Figures this would happen during a few slow days at the office. Thanks for keeping the site rollin' boss-man!
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I've used my 16g Craftsman shop vac hose in a pinch when working on the cars. I'd go with the "aluminum" expandable dryer duct as a cheap alternative when you need 2 for the motorcycle.
Roadliner/Stratoliners - Anybody else out there ?
in Watering Hole
Posted
Not a Strat, but I've had a few RoadStar Warriors in the stable as well as and for a short while was taking care of a Raider with the same 1850cc motor.