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OK I give up, Trying to put Leds throught out the bike.


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I no longer have a reserve lighting unit and yeah tried turning the bulb around and unplugging the light that did not work. anyways once I undid the reserve unit my bright indicator stopped flickering while on dim it would start flickering at 1500 rpm and above so no more of any of that all is well now...... everything is led now but at the cost of the reserve lighting unit and canceling unit. I had to also wire up a 3 prong flasher for the four ways basically all that had to be done there is a ground added....
I removed the RLU on the 90 VR when I installed HID. Didn't miss it at all. In my opinion replacing the turn signals with LED isn't worth the loss of the cancelling unit. Plus I like the bigger light source of the incandescent bulbs.
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My LED turn signals have a much bigger and brighter light source than the incandescent and my self canceling still works fine. It all depends on your preferences and how you decide is the best way for you to set it all up.

You also have load equalizers if I remember correctly. I tried something different and just traded out the flasher. My bike can go back to the self canceler at anytime just got to plug in old flasher and equalizers. My self canceling unit is either fubar or something else could be going on....

 

Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.

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  • 2 weeks later...
So I put in LEDs in the brake light today (turn signals tomorrow!) and the brake warning light came on. Do I need a resistor for the brake/tail as well?

 

The Brake light problem in the dash is you have to run the jumpers on the board. I have both headlight and brake light jumpered on there. Here is the write up on that issue, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92274-How-do-you-quot-Jumper-the-CMU-quot-for-LED-s-bulbs-to-prevent-the-warning-light-coming-on&highlight=turn+signals+flash+bulb .. Now you will have to do the resistors on the turn signals for each bulb. Or Use this resister That @Flyinfool used. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=HS50_3R3_1%25virtualkey11260000virtualkey284-HS50-3.3F

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Last and Final on My LED endeavor I added a headlight after finding a mounting frame for the venture so I could hack it up if needed, Had to hack it up I will put finishing touches on it later, Talked to @Flyinfool one night in chat and was talking about the MK1 headlight setup, Honestly it sucked no matter how hard I tried all I seemed to get was crappy lighting. I don't know about any of you but if I am gonna be on 2 wheels I want to see at night and be seen... which is why I have added all the stuff to this bike for better visibility and to be heard if need be. Gotta love them people who think there cars are there home or offices!! So I bought this bulb off of ebay and went to hacking away at the frame. I also bought a little longer screws for the headlight frame to hold it in.

 

s-l1600.jpgs-l16001.jpg20170402_113524.jpgIMG_0236[1].jpg. I can always go back to Silverstar light if I don't like this. Now to get back out and see where that darned wheel has ran off to this time!!:Venture:

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Interesting

So how is the beam pattern and the cutoff?

How is the visibility at night.

Well I haven't had a chance its other been raining cold or too much roadlight... I want dark road to try it out and I know of one that I can go down and adjust the beam and get it dialed in. So far the light spread seams better.

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

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OK the very ext thing you want to do is buy yourself some white paint that sticks to rubber, and paint that black rubber bezel around the headlight white!! You will be amazed at the difference it makes!!! White reflects light, black absorbs it...

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OK the very ext thing you want to do is buy yourself some white paint that sticks to rubber, and paint that black rubber bezel around the headlight white!! You will be amazed at the difference it makes!!! White reflects light, black absorbs it...

 

You know this thought has crossed my mind many of times. I could never figure out why they did not use white rubber there. I guess my question would be where do I find that? I was even thinking about lining that rubber with aluminum...

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The silver tape does not work as good as white paint. Silver is sort of a derivative of grey which is a weak black. Use the same paint they use on rubber auto bumpers, or plastic furniture...

 

One question How does that black rubber piece come out? gonna go chase down some paint..

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I am also ready to give up. I put LEDs from Super Bright LEDs in the turn signals, wired in these resistors https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/

 

First tried one at the rear signal, turned on the switch....and it stays on solid. Wired the second one up by the front signal, figuring maybe I need four, and if it worked on the one side, I would just order two more resistors and....it blinks! Suuuuuuuppper slllooowwwwllyyy, like three timmes and then just stayed on solid. Is kicking the bike into a ditch the appropriate response here? I'm new to all this and I'm not sure how to react.

 

Thanks in advance

--Matt

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Were the turn signals working correctly with the incandescent bulbs?

Which bulbs did you put in?

 

They were. They blinked a little slower than I would prefer, but they did blink. I put in 1156 in the rear and 1157 in the front, both from Super Bright LEDs.

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1156-A18-T: Amber in the rear, and 1157-A3X1W: Amber in the front. I copied the numbers from another (or possibly this) post where someone had put them in their bike and they seemed to work for him.

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1156-A18-T: Amber in the rear, and 1157-A3X1W: Amber in the front. I copied the numbers from another (or possibly this) post where someone had put them in their bike and they seemed to work for him.

 

I have Leds in my 83 but at the cost of my canceling unit. All that happened was that I cut the wire about 2 inches from the plug. I can always put my wire back together and go back to incadescents. The resistors worked but put a strain on the system plus I didn't like how hot the things got. I should have video up on what I did somewhere. But like I said I lost my canceling unit.

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I have Leds in my 83 but at the cost of my canceling unit. All that happened was that I cut the wire about 2 inches from the plug. I can always put my wire back together and go back to incadescents. The resistors worked but put a strain on the system plus I didn't like how hot the things got. I should have video up on what I did somewhere. But like I said I lost my canceling unit.

Where exactly did you wire in the resistors? I'm still not sure I'm understanding where they go on the bike. I put mine in right before the rear turn signal under the trunk, and when that didn't do it I wired the other one inside the fairing behind the left turn signal. I'm at my wits end here. Could I just need a new flasher? They blink a little slow with the incandescents as well.

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Normally, the lighter the load the faster they blink. That is why people add the resistors to add more load to slow down the "hyper flashing" when LEDs are installed.

 

I wonder if you may be having issues with weird internal circuitry in one or both of the LED bulbs? There are some bulbs that will not work on our bikes because the blinker system does not just turn off the power during the off part of the signal, but the bike actually grounds the bulb during the off cycle. Some of the 1157 LEDs have the two input leads connected together internally with just a very small resistor on the lead for the running lights so that when the turn signal is off and grounded it is effectively shorting out the LED part of the bulb, but there is just enough resistance in the system to not pop the fuse. I did a bunch of research on this problem a while back and the only solutions were to get different bulbs that did not have the internal connection (There is no way to tell if a bulb has the internal connection other than to try one and / or take one apart to see what is inside) or to add some diodes to isolate the bulb from the grounding. There were 3 different bulbs that I tested that did have the internal issue. One was from Autozone, and the other 2 were from ebay.

 

Try putting in the front LED and the rear stock incandescent. If that works then try the rear LED and the front incandescent, maybe you can narrow it down to which one of the LEDs is causing your problem.

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Where exactly did you wire in the resistors? I'm still not sure I'm understanding where they go on the bike. I put mine in right before the rear turn signal under the trunk, and when that didn't do it I wired the other one inside the fairing behind the left turn signal. I'm at my wits end here. Could I just need a new flasher? They blink a little slow with the incandescents as well.

 

Well I was gonna mount them under my trunk. But since they would not work anyway I went I ended up just switching out the flasher for an Led Flasher. The front ones I actually mounted on the frontal fairing bracket on a flat piece of metal. Are you wiring the resistor across the positive and negative wire? for some reason a frame ground will not work. My lights with all four leds and four resistors flashed about 6-8 times a minute. I think they were blinking very slowly.

 

Normally, the lighter the load the faster they blink. That is why people add the resistors to add more load to slow down the "hyper flashing" when LEDs are installed.

 

I wonder if you may be having issues with weird internal circuitry in one or both of the LED bulbs? There are some bulbs that will not work on our bikes because the blinker system does not just turn off the power during the off part of the signal, but the bike actually grounds the bulb during the off cycle. Some of the 1157 LEDs have the two input leads connected together internally with just a very small resistor on the lead for the running lights so that when the turn signal is off and grounded it is effectively shorting out the LED part of the bulb, but there is just enough resistance in the system to not pop the fuse. I did a bunch of research on this problem a while back and the only solutions were to get different bulbs that did not have the internal connection (There is no way to tell if a bulb has the internal connection other than to try one and / or take one apart to see what is inside) or to add some diodes to isolate the bulb from the grounding. There were 3 different bulbs that I tested that did have the internal issue. One was from Autozone, and the other 2 were from ebay.

 

Try putting in the front LED and the rear stock incandescent. If that works then try the rear LED and the front incandescent, maybe you can narrow it down to which one of the LEDs is causing your problem.

 

As to this I got all my bulbs from Oriley Auto. They do price match Wal-Mart also... Don't matter the brand unless Wal-Mart stocks that Brand. Now as for Autozone there stuff for some reason would not work, got the same bulb or so I thought at Oreily and it works just fine in my Brake Lights. The only bulbs I got off for my dash you can get on Ebay But the polarity has to be right so I just installed all the bulbs with the key turned on that way I knew when I had them in correctly. I am still trying to make sense of a write up I found for making the 83 blinkers work with LEDS and have Cancelling unit.

 

Just so You know MattK I snipped my cancelling unit wire that ran to the flasher, then ran the earth side to the body ground where I had one resistor mounted. But I had to buy the Flasher for 4-6 LED bulbs, I can not mix my bulbs it says. I have no resistors plugged in what so ever I think I may still have the one resistor in the right side unless I took it off when I took the fairing off when I mounted my aftermarket TCI box in the right Fairing Inner mount. But that one is not hooked up I just snipped the wires by removing the turn signal. It is gonna be hard for me to get any pictures this week if the kids don't go to school tomorrow. They called it off today because one of the schools being destroyed, they are talking possibly not having school the rest of the year:think: all these schools here they can't build them fast enuff to keep up with all the kids, all the classes are maxed out.. so there trying to figure out what to do with all of them. Wouldn't suprise me if they haul in modular classrooms for Goodman Elementary Unless they had some of those too. If so well might as well kiss my Bike projects and other project bye bye till this Fall...:yikes:

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Well I was gonna mount them under my trunk. But since they would not work anyway I went I ended up just switching out the flasher for an Led Flasher. The front ones I actually mounted on the frontal fairing bracket on a flat piece of metal. Are you wiring the resistor across the positive and negative wire? for some reason a frame ground will not work. My lights with all four leds and four resistors flashed about 6-8 times a minute. I think they were blinking very slowly.

 

 

 

As to this I got all my bulbs from Oriley Auto. They do price match Wal-Mart also... Don't matter the brand unless Wal-Mart stocks that Brand. Now as for Autozone there stuff for some reason would not work, got the same bulb or so I thought at Oreily and it works just fine in my Brake Lights. The only bulbs I got off for my dash you can get on Ebay But the polarity has to be right so I just installed all the bulbs with the key turned on that way I knew when I had them in correctly. I am still trying to make sense of a write up I found for making the 83 blinkers work with LEDS and have Cancelling unit.

 

Just so You know MattK I snipped my cancelling unit wire that ran to the flasher, then ran the earth side to the body ground where I had one resistor mounted. But I had to buy the Flasher for 4-6 LED bulbs, I can not mix my bulbs it says. I have no resistors plugged in what so ever I think I may still have the one resistor in the right side unless I took it off when I took the fairing off when I mounted my aftermarket TCI box in the right Fairing Inner mount. But that one is not hooked up I just snipped the wires by removing the turn signal. It is gonna be hard for me to get any pictures this week if the kids don't go to school tomorrow. They called it off today because one of the schools being destroyed, they are talking possibly not having school the rest of the year:think: all these schools here they can't build them fast enuff to keep up with all the kids, all the classes are maxed out.. so there trying to figure out what to do with all of them. Wouldn't suprise me if they haul in modular classrooms for Goodman Elementary Unless they had some of those too. If so well might as well kiss my Bike projects and other project bye bye till this Fall...:yikes:

 

I would love to trade out to a different flasher and be done with it if that's what I can do. The thing I worry about is I read somewhere on here that there is a starter relay in the flasher as well? So I'm not sure what to buy to make it work. Don't suppose you remember which one you put in do you? I don't care about the self cancelling part, I've never had a bike with it so I won't miss it.

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