Beau-Kat Posted December 4, 2015 Share #1 Posted December 4, 2015 Just three more inches of lead to the stator connector. That's all a guy needs to keep from having to remove half the bike to get to that dang connector. Now, if I can just remember where all these bolts go. Well, my stator legs all tested even (RR disconnected), but over twice what is normal, 0.7 ohms between all the legs. Oh well, at least I didn't strip this bike down to discover that my stator was just fine and then I would have to chase my low volts charging issue to somewhere else. To the stator store I must go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 4, 2015 Share #2 Posted December 4, 2015 What kind of meter did you test with? Some of the cheaper meters will read high when trying to read very small ohm values because they do not compensate for the resistance of the test leads. touch your test leads together, if the meter does not show 0 ohms, then you need to subtract the reading from what you measured. The better test is that you have infinite ohms from any lead to ground, and then measure the voltage output with the bike running and the regulator disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeray Posted December 4, 2015 Share #3 Posted December 4, 2015 I would recommend checking the stator output using Flyinfool’s method called out in his procedure “TESTING FOR A BATTERY NOT CHARGING.” first. With the engine reved up check the AC output with a meter all three legs. No more than 5% difference between legs. That will tell you right up front if the stator is putting out. I had 98, 92 & 76 vac. Take a pair of vice grips and attach to the throttle to maintain a steady rpm. Then check the output all three legs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beau-Kat Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share #4 Posted December 4, 2015 What kind of meter did you test with? Some of the cheaper meters will read high when trying to read very small ohm values because they do not compensate for the resistance of the test leads. touch your test leads together, if the meter does not show 0 ohms, then you need to subtract the reading from what you measured. The better test is that you have infinite ohms from any lead to ground, and then measure the voltage output with the bike running and the regulator disconnected. I don't have a Fluke or better meter here. This one's a less expensive GB meter that I've used for years in my electrical business. Touching meter leads did read zero before starting the stator test, so this meter is probably good enough to read down that low in ohms. I had already done the infinite ohms test with RR disconnected. Yeah, had infinite to ground on all three legs. Hadn't done the running engine a/c test yet. Probably this afternoon. Before I started all this, my bike would indicate output of almost 13v, but only when revved about 4grand for several seconds. But my 1988 VR indicates about 13.50 at idle. I rarely, rarely, use heating clothing, and don't have driving lights or other accessories installed on the MM. Just the led brake light bar. Got a new DEKA battery coming to replace this DEKA I'm running now. My current battery tests good but is 4 1/2 years old. So I'm gonna get that new one installed before I buy anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted December 4, 2015 Share #5 Posted December 4, 2015 That title is deceiving ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beau-Kat Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted December 4, 2015 That title is deceiving ! Made ya look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beau-Kat Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share #7 Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) OK. Just did the A/C stator tests. All legs 57 VAC at 2100 rpm. Also read Jeff Borowski's write-up and saw how to do the RR test. I'm gonna try to attach pics of my notes for the RR and stator test results. Other than getting .7 ohms on the stator legs, looks like the RR is probably the issue. Hope it ain't both. Edited December 4, 2015 by Beau-Kat added info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted December 4, 2015 Share #8 Posted December 4, 2015 Unfortunately it is not uncommon for both to go together. With all of the electrical stuff I have added to my bike, I keep a spare stator and RR and gasket set on the shelf ready to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeray Posted December 5, 2015 Share #9 Posted December 5, 2015 Do you have a tachometer on the bike? If so what RPM does the engine run when your going down the road in 4th gear getting ready to shift to 5th? I would think the output of stator would be more than 57 vac. What I have read the output should be close to 100 vac. I don't have a tac so I revved the engine up pretty high then locked the throttle down and got readings on two legs in the 90's and one around 76 vac. I guess at this point a new R/R is in order. In one of my write ups I had a picture of the new R/R I bought along with the OEM. The one I bought was not as big as the OEM soooo I don't have much faith that it would last very long. It only cost around $35.00 so that's an easy and cheap way to trouble shoot. BTW did you check the connection where the stator connects to the electrical harness? It's a BEAR to get too but it may be corroded thus giving the low reading at the connection from the harness to the R/R. Anyway let us know what you find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eck Posted December 5, 2015 Share #10 Posted December 5, 2015 That title is deceiving ! I knew she wasn't speaking of me..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeray Posted December 5, 2015 Share #11 Posted December 5, 2015 OK. Just did the A/C stator tests. All legs 57 VAC at 2100 rpm. Also read Jeff Borowski's write-up and saw how to do the RR test. I'm gonna try to attach pics of my notes for the RR and stator test results. Other than getting .7 ohms on the stator legs, looks like the RR is probably the issue. Hope it ain't both. Here's some info I took off the write up I did. I have no idea how fast the engine was running as I don't have a tach. but with the choke pulled out it was 68 vac, 64 vac & 54 vac. The other readings were with the engine wound up pretty good. “Next test is to start the bike and hold it above 2000 RPM. As I don’t have any way to measure the RPM’s I hooked a pair of vice grips to the throttle grip and guesstimated 2000 RPM. 1-2 98 vac 2-3 92 vac 3-1 76 vac Hmm 1&2 look ok (close) 3 not so close. I did this earlier using the choke to speed the engine up and got 1-2 68 vac 2-3 64 vac 3-1 54 vac Hmm not so close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beau-Kat Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted December 5, 2015 Yes. I tested just after starting with the coke pulled out. I do have a tach. I don't remember what the tach indicates shifting from 4th to 5th. I've never shifted by what the tach indicates, except back in the race days many moons ago. Anyway, tach indicated 2100 steady while I quickly took the three 57 v readings. Didn't test at any greater rpm today. I can easily test at a higher rpm (maybe 3400) tomorrow. I don't have any corrosion on any of my connections I have pulled. I live in the south where we don't have to salt the roads. And my bike is stored inside. I agree the connector was a bear. Wires could have easily been made 3-4 inches longer and connector located out of that tight spot where it is, making the testing much easier. But I don't think there is a translation for "easier" from English to Japanese. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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