starter clutch replacement

[hipshot]

i got my repair parts in today.

so, before i start pulling the flywheel off, are there any "uh-oh's" that i need to be aware of?

is anything gonna "jump out at me"???

does anyone know off the top of their head, what the torque values are for reassembly?

any help, greatly appreciated!

just jt

[MasterGuns]

You know, I've read in this site that this was quite a job so I was a bit hesitant myself. Not that I am not a wrench turner, it's just that I don't have a lot of time to be messing with motorcycle repairs; got a lot of other stuff that needs tending to. So, with a little apprehension, I tore into my scoot. I was done with the entire project is about 2 1/2 hours. Replace the entire clutch and the 72 tooth gear. Was a pretty straight forward project. I even replace the cover so I had to remove the stator and the p/u coils and transfer all that stuff to the new cover. Plus in the process of bolting in the stator to the new cover, I then noticed that one of the stator studs was broken off and I had to drill that puppy out, remove one from the original cover to use in the new cover. That must have taken about 30 or 40 minutes. So, bottom line, just go for it. It isn't as bad as it is made out to be.

[hipshot]

thanks , gunny!

gonna jump on it "first thing in the morning!"

lol

i have to search for a third bolt, for my flywheel puller.

can't just run out and buy one, everything is closed down for good friday!

just jt

[Squeeze]

You will need a fitting Hub Puller and ly some old Carpets or Pilows or several Layers of Cardboad in the Area. The Flywheel can jump out at you or the Floor.

 

Other than this, you may not expect any real Difficulties. Watch out for the Wire which must brought back into the Flywheel Bolt before mounting the Cover.

[GeorgeS]

When you get the Metric Bolts, for the " Puller " be sure to get the

High Strength material bolts.

 

Take very good care of all the Bolt threads involved in the job.

Easy to strip some threads.

[Venturous Randy]

Once you have put a lot more pressure on the puller than you wanted to and it still has not moved, take a dull punch and reach in and smack the center sleeve on the flywheel. This will cause a very slight instantaneous expansion and the flywheel will pop off.

And like squeeze said, it comes off quick and have something for it to fall on.

RandyA

[hipshot]

ok, guys, i have pulled MANY flywheels off, of briggs and strattons, kohlers, etc. i know about the sudden release, and sharp rap on the end of the puller trick. i just wondered if anything "unexpected" , was gonna come shooting out behind the flywheel.

thanks for all the help, and the reminder to have a cushion , for it to fall out on!

just jt

[Venturous Randy]

I don't remember anything more than a sense of relief.

RandyA

[mbrood]

Well, when the rotor comes off, it (typically) comes off the idler gear for the starter... that releases the dowels, springs and cups of the starter clutch... so (at least with mine) those will want to "find a new home". Lay down a towel and the parts won't travel as far.

 

Other than that, the suggestions are GREAT about having a soft pillow for the rotor to "land" on when it pops off.

[shighley]

I found a good trick in removing the flywheel. I attempted many times to get the darned thing off and failed. Ruined a couple of puller tips before the "light" came on. The method that worked for me was to use the flywheel mounting bolt and the flat tipped adaptor that came with the puller. Screw in the bolt until you have about 1/16" of clearance between the flywheel hex face and the large washer on the bolt. Install your puller and go to town. You don't need to worry about anything flying off because the bolt effectively catches the assembly when it moves. The other thing was to use robust washers under the heads of the M8 bolts in between the bolt heads and puller. That's my .02 worth and hope it helps someone. Ride safe, Steve

[Squeeze]

...Screw in the bolt until you have about 1/16" of clearance between the flywheel hex face and the large washer on the bolt. ..

 

Hi Steve,

 

this Method sure will prevent the Flywheel from getting airborne, BUT you will produce tremendous Stress and Force upon the Thread of the Bolt and the Thread inside the Crankshaft.

 

This is NOT good.

 

As long as only the Thread on the Bolt is wrecked, fine, replace the Bolt and go on, but if the Thread in the Crank is ruined, you will be in serious Trouble.

 

Therefore, i do not recommend doing this.

 

I'd rather catch a flying Rotor than replace the Crankshaft, which means take the Motor out, replace Crank with new Bearings, and on and on ... Which means, costwise, better bring in the spare Engine.

 

I have a Puller with a flat tipped hydraulic Spindle, and believe it or not, i'm afraid to use it even without the Bolt in Place. Sometimes, the Force of the Spindle is so heavy that the Washer is flattened between Spindle and Crank to half the origin Size. A Buddie on his Max wrecked two Pullers, used a Torch to heat up the Hub with Tons of Force on the Puller. Nothing helped. He ended up with cutting the Flywheel of the Crank with angled Grinder.

 

Only save Solution i figured out, but didn't get to test yet, is making a Collar fitting between Washer and Crank with outer Diameter a bit smaller than inner Diameter of the Flywheel(around 28mm if i remember right) and a Height of some 1/10 Inch or 2.5 mm. This will take the Stress off the Thread and prevent the Flywheel from been catapulted into the Shop.