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Stator Replace


kwisor

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Hello All

Has Anyonr Replaced There Stator With The One From Buckeye Performane? I Have A Lot Of Lights And Things On My 99 I Have A Volt Meter That Hover Arounf 13 To 13 2 And Moves Fron 12.9 To 13 3 Upand Down I Can Not Run The High Beam Or It Will Drop I Am Adding A Side Car To The Bike So My Wife And Sun Can Rud With Me And Not Leave One At Home And I Am Afaid That The Light On The Side Car Will Drom It More. I Was Wondering If This Stator Will Help The Volt Meter Also Has A Amp Reading And It Is About -3 Amps All The Time Any Inpot Will Help

Thank You

Kevin Wisor

1999 Rsv

Jax Fl

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I have the bike that the first stator was installed in. We now have over 7000 miles on the stator with no problems. I have a volt/amp meter on the bike and we have seen a high of 55 amps. This occurs between 2000 & 3500 RPM.

Rick Haferkamp at Buckeye Performance has all the specs and would be happy to answer any questions you may have. You can contact Rick at:

 

http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/

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Kevin,

 

I just finished installing one on a friend's 06 RSV. Just be paitient while you are taking it out and I'll list a few notes that might make it easier:

 

1. Be sure and drain the oil and when you take the middle gear cover off, get ready for about a 1/4th a cup of oil that is going to come out. Usually taking the bottom bolt out with the copper washer will drain this last bit with the bike on the side stand, but in my case it didn't.

 

2. Since all the wires from the stator come up through the middle of the bike behind the engine, take both side covers off and the radiator overflow bottle out so you can get to the stator and ignition connectors to take them loose.

 

3. It may seem that the stator cover will not come off without taking the front left exhaust off, but work with it and it will snuggly slip out. I think taking the back side out first as you worm it out will work best. It will seem to hang up on the exhaust, but it's a tight fit and it will come out. After you get the stator out, dry fit the case back on so you will know exactly how it goes.

 

4. After I took the 3 wire connector loose, I pulled the end with the female connector out the left side by the fuel pump so I could easily get to it to solder the 3 leads from the stator. And I didn't route it back through the middle, but rather under the shift shaft and along the frame behind the fuel pump and tie wraped everything up. You will need to take the 2 bolts out of the fuel pump bracket so you can make this run. Remember that you are going to cut the female end off and solder the leads from the stator together permanently, so lay it out carefully before you start soldering. I used heat shrink on each of the 3 wires and then electrical tape on the 3 wire bundle.

 

5. On the 3 wires coming from the stator you will see a rubber grommet that slips into the case. Where these wires go through the grommet, they are not a sealed fit, and will leak oil. Get a tube of Yamabond 4 and a pack of solder flux brushes. This sealent is a nice fluid that will solidify but not get hard. Use the flux brushes to paste the Yamabond into the spaces around the 3 wires going through the grommet (on both ends) and then when you replace the stator in the case, also paste the grommet into the case to provide a complete seal. You will need to hold it a few moments until it sets up.

 

6. On the bolts that hold the stator in and two bolts that holds a cover a cover on, these are phillip head 6mm bolts. You might be able to get them out with a impact screw driver, but since they are Loctited you will destroy the heads in the end. So I always drill the heads off and then take them loose with either a easy out or a vise grips on the longer bolts. Then I go down to the local True Value hardware and get 3 - 6X35mm and 2 - 6X16mm stainless pan head allen bolts and loctite them back in.

 

I think this is about all of the important stuff and I hope it helps,

 

Rick

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