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LED light bar repair or??


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I have two dead led's on the rear light bar that are not working. When I first got the bike they flickered a little, but lately nada.... I don't even know the brand but they are quite common and a pic's attached. My question two fold. Who made them, and can they be repaired?? Or do I have to buy a replacement??

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If you can identify the LEDs you should be able to exchange them.

 

Are you close to any Fry's???

 

If yes, you can take it over there for a replacement. You will need to desolder the old one, and be sure you put the new one on the right way (Remeber that LEDs are Diodes..., they only left the current flow on one direction.)

 

Good Luck

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I have two dead led's on the rear light bar that are not working. When I first got the bike they flickered a little, but lately nada.... I don't even know the brand but they are quite common and a pic's attached. My question two fold. Who made them, and can they be repaired?? Or do I have to buy a replacement??

 

Similar to this one?

 

http://www.diamondraccessories.com/yamaha/proddisplay.php?name=15%60%60%20Slimline%20LED%20Lightbar

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OK here is how to tell who manufactured the unit, between the fourth and the fith LED on the red lens will be embossed with DOT or SAE on one side and the manufacturer name on the other side, (left / right).

 

I have one I just took off , it is the run and brake type, no turn signal function, is made by ILC, the model number I have is K501, I was not succesful in finding their web site.

 

What I replaced it with was one from R&P Carraiges, http://www.mariahbright.com/, this one has the turn signal option, here is a link to it on EBAY, it is made by Tecniqinc, but Tecniqinc will not sell to the public, only dealers. http://www.tecniqinc.com/pages/products_t100.html

 

In my book for the price to replace the light bar, verse my time to try and maybe repair the one that is broken, I would come out better just buying a new one.

 

Now having said that, I am willing to send you the one I just took off for the cost of shipping, but that is likely to be as much s the price of a new one from R&P because they have free shipping and the part only costs $20.00.

 

One word of advice, if you go for the turn signal option light bar, be advised that unless you add some dodes to your wiring , you cannot get both turn and brake, only one or the other. I added the required diodes to my new install and they work great, big red turn signals and a big red brake light bar, that even the Blue Haired Ding Bats here if Florida can see in the day time.

 

If you need help with that option I can supply the needed info or for a nominal fee build the set up if you need.

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Condor is that the light that doubles as turn and brake as well as running? Hmm that would mean triples I think (( Yes I DO!!)) Think just can't remember.. If so where can I get one??

 

I don't think so. Just brake and running, and I'm not sure about brake as I'm not quick enough to squeeze the grip and then run to the back to see if it brakes... :whistling:

 

If you can identify the LEDs you should be able to exchange them.

 

Are you close to any Fry's???

 

Good Luck

 

MOF I do have one fairly close

 

 

 

 

The one that on the bike now doesn't have the bling factor and is a little narrower then Diamond R's...

 

OK here is how to tell who manufactured the unit, between the fourth and the fith LED on the red lens will be embossed with DOT or SAE on one side and the manufacturer name on the other side, (left / right).

 

I have one I just took off , it is the run and brake type, no turn signal function, is made by ILC, the model number I have is K501, I was not succesful in finding their web site.

 

What I replaced it with was one from R&P Carraiges, http://www.mariahbright.com/, this one has the turn signal option, here is a link to it on EBAY, it is made by Tecniqinc, but Tecniqinc will not sell to the public, only dealers. http://www.tecniqinc.com/pages/products_t100.html

 

In my book for the price to replace the light bar, verse my time to try and maybe repair the one that is broken, I would come out better just buying a new one.

 

Now having said that, I am willing to send you the one I just took off for the cost of shipping, but that is likely to be as much s the price of a new one from R&P because they have free shipping and the part only costs $20.00.

 

One word of advice, if you go for the turn signal option light bar, be advised that unless you add some dodes to your wiring , you cannot get both turn and brake, only one or the other. I added the required diodes to my new install and they work great, big red turn signals and a big red brake light bar, that even the Blue Haired Ding Bats here if Florida can see in the day time.

 

If you need help with that option I can supply the needed info or for a nominal fee build the set up if you need.

 

Thanks for the info, and I may get back to you on the kit.... I followed another bike that had all three functions and my impression was with only 3 led's lit while running it didn't offer a whole lotta visual impact. Since I don't do a lot of night riding I'd rather have all 11 leds burning during the day, and all 11 going to high intensity when I hit the brakes.

 

I picked up my set for like 15 bucks. Just look for the trailer tail/run/stop in the same shape. Same dang thing these guys are selling for over 50 bucks.

Like Steve shows. Those are the same thing.

 

I'll check around. There a quite a few truck/trailer/RV outlets in the area. For $15 bucks it's a deal. One of the reason's if I have to replace rather than fix, I'd like to get the same style as the mounting hardware.

 

 

Thanks to all of you for the ideas, info and suggestions. Youse guys have been a big help.... :thumbsup2:

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Condor

 

You said

I followed another bike that had all three functions and my impression was with only 3 led's lit while running it didn't offer a whole lotta visual impact. Since I don't do a lot of night riding I'd rather have all 11 leds burning during the day, and all 11 going to high intensity when I hit the brakes.

 

The light bar we are talking about does not have dual intensity LEDS, they all burn at the the same intensity , the visual impact is caused by changing the quanity of lights that are illuminated (when you brake the 8 LEDs that are off come on) . So if you connect all 11 to be on for running lights and then you hit the brakes there will be no change in the level of illumination of the bulbs. To effect that with out special dual output LEDs you would need to add a resistor to the running light circuit, that will drop the effective voltage that gets to the LEDs and then the brake light circuiy would be wired to a line with out the resistor(s) and they will illuminate at full brightness.

My fear is, that in order to effect enough of a difference in the level of illumination between the two states, (run vs brake) it will make the running light level so low that it will be of no real gain to you visibility.

 

I doubt that running lights on bikes (other than the head light) contribute very little to the daytime visibility the running lights are more for night time operarions, those 3 LEDs do show pretty well at night, and the 8 show well day or night when used for brakes. and with the three on for running and then the 8 on when braking, the whole bar of 11 is on that is pretty obvious to most drivers behind you.

 

If you really want to get their attention install a brake light modulator that flashes the brake lights for a short period when first applied, that really makes people stand on their brakes behind you, it is like a visual dope slap.

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Some of the LEDs in my spoiler light bar went out. I spoke with a smart friend of mine in electronics engineering who suggested I simply reflow the solder on each side of the LED as over time, high vibration and likely not the best quality, the solder could crack. He was right. I touched a hot solder iron to each side of the faulty LEDs, I presume that resoldered the joint and that solved my problem. Might be worth a try.

 

Andrew

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ablumny

On the light bar that Condor has , you cannot get to the lights or the solder joints with out breaking the sonic weld that seals the plastic pats on the asembly, as I noted in an earlier post to do that is likelyto destroy the light bar or at least be very time consuming and resealing the plastic parts with any certiany that it will be leak proof is like to be difficult at best.

 

You are completly correct about solder joints failing from time to time due to vibrations, and reflowing the solder is often a very valid fix, I am just not sure it is the way to go in this case.

 

Much depends on what you value your time at, for me spending a couple of hours trying to repair a $20.00 item that is readily available on line is a losing proposition, especially if I consider my time worth what they pay me at work, and my personal / family time is worth way more that what I am paid to earn a living. :whistling:

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Condor: When I need to check lighting I have my 7 year old Granson run the controls for me. As a favor to you I am sending him your way to help. FYI. He does not like cheese on his burgers and sandwiches, but does like mac and cheese. :rotf:

 

Send him on out, he'll fit right in.... :sign20:

 

 

I'm gonna have to go take a look at the backside of this bar and see what I'm dealing with, and what the 'H' I'm talking about. Gotta stop assuming.... I do have an OEM trunk light bar...one of those wing affairs... that I plan on putting on the '99, and it has 3 wires coming out of it. Red/Black/and Orange. When I tested it with a 9vdc battery all leds came on, so I assumed the the orange was probably for brakes, and that's what my feable mind assumed' was how this bar on the '07 worked?? So stay tuned, I'm going in....

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