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Clutch Not Working


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LOL....that's better.

 

As I said in PM....probably need to bleed the clutch.

 

 

 

Here's some directions originally posted by a member here V7Goose...

 

 

easy instructions for this with a simple hand vacuum pump.

 

The tool I use is here: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html

 

Step one: Use the pump to suck out all the fluid from the master cylinder. You do this so that you do not have to suck all the nasty old fluid out through the bleeder valve.

 

Step two: Fill the master with fresh fluid.

 

Step three: connect the pump to the bleeder valve, open the valve, and start pumping. This will suck fresh fluid from the master and old nasty stuff out of the line. You will have to hold the tube on the bleeder to make sure it does not accidentally pop off while pumping.

 

Step three-point-five: watch the master cylinder fluid level while pumping from the bleeder. STOP pumping before the fluid gets to the bottom to prevent any air from entering the line. If you make a mistake here, you will need to keep bleeding until the air bubbles get sucked out through the bleeder.

 

Step three-point-six: Refill the master cylinder each time it gets low, making sure you never suck it dry!

 

Step four: Watch the color of the fluid being sucked into the canister. When it changes color (gets clear), you are done. Close the bleeder and top off the master.

 

EDIT: if you don't have a pump, you can put a hose that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple with one end into a jar.

with one hand on the clutch lever you put pressure on the lever and then open the bleeder. Try to close the bleeder before you reach the end of the clutch lever "squeeze" travel. Brake fluid will come out the bleeder. keep doing this and topping up the master cyl. until you see clean fluid coming out.

 

Make sure the master doesn't run dry or you will have to start over again.

Make sure you close the bleeder before you release the clutch lever or it will suck air back into the system.

 

And as I said in my PM......PROTECT THE PLASTIC FROM BRAKE FLUID!!!!!!

 

 

Once you feel the clutch nice and firm again .....go ride!

Edited by Trader
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Trader is spot on. For me however, (also found this tip on this site), I place on center stand, loosen reservoir lid, squeeze a few times, tie clutch handle off with rope and leave set overnight. Gravity works best. Next day, you could still have a small amount of air in the top banjo, just depress clutch, loosen banjo bolt, air will spit, tighten banjo while clutch is still depressed, and repeat. Next, do the same down at the bleeder screw, at the clutch slave, under black square rubber flapper by kickstand (middle gear cover). Works every time.

 

One more bit of advise, I joined this forum in May 2013, best $12 I've ever spent, hands down. The shop manuals are worth 2x that, plus everyone helps out, and the searches and knowledge is unbelievable.

Edited by SpencerPJ
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Mine went dry after a long time and a bunch of miles from a very slow leak (I assume) in the slave. It was a long, long process to get it full and bled.

When you think you have been at it to long, keep bleeding.

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What I would suggest in addition to all that's been said, is to bleed the master first. Do this by first making sure you have cleaned the reservoir, and put in fresh fluid. The you need to do 2 things at once: slightly squeeze the handle, moving it only maybe 1\2 inch and then back again, at the same time tap the banjo bolt at the end of the master with the plastic end of a screw driver. This works best with the scoot on the center stand and the handle bars cranked all the way to the right, so that the banjo is on the low side. keep tapping and slightly pumping until you don't see anymore bubbles coming up in the master.

Doing this will get rid of the worst part of clutch bleeding, for once you have the air out of the banjo, the master can do a much better job of forcing fluid down to the slave.

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