Air Filters

[Little Bob]

Hello Everyone,

 

This is going to be a dumb ?. I just rec`d my K&N Filters and chrome covers. Do the lowers have to come off? Also what holds the chrome piece on? The black cover does not go back on. Told you this was dumb. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance

:confused24::confused24::confused24:

[Jerry W]

I don't know about the chrome covers, but you do not need to remove the lowers to change filters. It is easier if you take out some of the bolts holding the lowers so you can move them and gain easier access to some of the bolts on the filters. Sorry I can't be of any help on the chrome covers, however if you would like to send them to me, I will be glad to see what it takes to make them fit my bike.

[Squidley]

Bob,

You have to remove the air covers from the tubes which is held on by a hose clamp and there are 2 8mm bolts that hold it to the frame towards the front. Once you take them off there will be 6 long phillips head screws that you remove from the back. Then you can access the filter which are held in by 2 screws. Put it together in the reverse order and your done

[ahoutzer]

Yes, the lowers should come off. You may be able to just remove all except the bottom fasteners and just tilt it away, but I would just pull the lowers off.

 

Removing the lowers: First have some epoxy or JBWeld on hand for the bayonet plug that is likely to break during disassembly. Use a hex wrench to remove the fasteners from the front of the lowers -- two on each side of the bike. Then go around to the inside of the lower, where your shins are when riding, and remove the one fastener from there (one on each side of the bike). That leaves the attachment points at the bottom of the lowers. If, like me, you have no lift because this bike is for riding and not for repairing , then lie down on the floor, with phillips screwdriver in hand -- not too long of a handle on the screwdriver. There is a chintzy plastic screw in the middle of the bottom of the lowers. It's not a real screw. Just loosen it about a quarter turn, and it will hang down. Now for the invisible how-is-this-thing-still-attached? part. The two sides of the lowers overlap -- no I don't remember which one is under and which one is over. They also each have a plastic bayonet molded to the inside of the plastic, which fits very tightly through a rubber grommet in the frame under the radiator. You will wonder: do I pull down or outward? Answer: you pull outward, toward the front wheel, but hold the lower securely right at the point of attachment (near center of the bike). Maybe you will get each bayonet to come free of its grommet, or maybe it will just break free of the lower -- a common occurrence. If it breaks off, that's what the epoxy or JBWeld is for. Fix the bayonet(s) now, so they set and dry while you are doing the rest of the work.

 

Note on the silly little plastic pseudo-screw that was in the bottom-middle of the lowers: I removed that and threw it away. I now use a small bolt, lock-washer and a nut. You have to feel around down there to line it all up, but at least it really does something.

 

With the lowers off, do like Squidley said: loosen a hose clamp from each air box and pull the boxes off of the boots to which they are attached. When you pull them off, notice a small hose that hangs near the front of each air box. During assembly, you will wonder: where do those attach? Answer: they don't. they just hang down in front of the air box opening, each hose end sitting in a metal ring-like holder, so that the end of the hose is in the air stream. These are just breather hoses, for emissions purposes, allowing spent-oil fumes from the crank case to be recirculated through combustion.

 

After the air boxes are off, yes, there are long screws in the back of them, holding the caps on. The rest is pretty easy to figure out.