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I want to consult the experts......I have purchased a new K&N air filter and I find some mods have been done to my air box. The square internal piece which screws in with sheet metal screws(screws into the divider panel-the one between the upper and lower halves) and fits inside the filter is missing. Also two half inch diameter holes have been drilled into the box on each side. They are above the divider into the filter side of the box.

Another thing- the new air filter does not allow the lid to settle down completely into the groove around the circumference. Yes- I have made sure is is seated correctly inside the tabs. I almost fits- but is maybe 3/16ths apart at rest. I imagine that tightening the screws will draw it down some. Can I just go with this setup as it is?

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I want to consult the experts......I have purchased a new K&N air filter and I find some mods have been done to my air box. The square internal piece which screws in with sheet metal screws(screws into the divider panel-the one between the upper and lower halves) and fits inside the filter is missing. Also two half inch diameter holes have been drilled into the box on each side. They are above the divider into the filter side of the box.

Another thing- the new air filter does not allow the lid to settle down completely into the groove around the circumference. Yes- I have made sure is is seated correctly inside the tabs. I almost fits- but is maybe 3/16ths apart at rest. I imagine that tightening the screws will draw it down some. Can I just go with this setup as it is?

 

Not the answer you want to hear, but no.

 

The bike is very finicky about changes to the air box. I have experimented with my 83 before it went VMax, and it did not react well, especially in the mid range, with even two 1" diameter extra holes.

 

I have a spare complete air box. You can have it for shipping costs.

 

Gary

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Larry,

 

You are good to go. 2 - 1/2" holes should not be an issue as I ran 4 - 1/2" holes in my lid without any problems with stock carbs. But if you get a stumble coming off idle, put a piece of duct tape over one or both.

 

And with that inner dam removed, it just allows all air coming through the filter to go straight into the carb throats, rather than making it go up and over creating a disturbance. But unless the lid or box is warped the lid should fit down into the groves even with the K&N.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

 

 

I want to consult the experts......I have purchased a new K&N air filter and I find some mods have been done to my air box. The square internal piece which screws in with sheet metal screws(screws into the divider panel-the one between the upper and lower halves) and fits inside the filter is missing. Also two half inch diameter holes have been drilled into the box on each side. They are above the divider into the filter side of the box.

Another thing- the new air filter does not allow the lid to settle down completely into the groove around the circumference. Yes- I have made sure is is seated correctly inside the tabs. I almost fits- but is maybe 3/16ths apart at rest. I imagine that tightening the screws will draw it down some. Can I just go with this setup as it is?

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You've added a K&N to get more air in, right? Openig the air box can help too, but it might require some carb changes. Mine's a 2nd gen, but opening the air box inlet hole by 50% (with K&N's) with one size larger slow jets made a noticable improvement in performance.

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I needed a new air filter and the K&N was available and has a good rep. I'm not all that interested in making it faster. BTW no oil was included with the filter. Is that a problem?

 

The plugs I removed are good but slightly carboned so its a touch to the rich side. Another reason for the K&N- will lean it out some.

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