How I polished aluminum

[Marcarl]

A few years ago I read about how a feller could polish aluminum to make it almost as nice as chrome. Yep, got the instructions right here from VentureRider.org.

So now, here is how I did it.

I did this a few years ago, and then applied clear-coat, maybe not the right kind because it went all funny on me and I had to redo it.

 

First it is best to remove the parts and pieces from the bike, it is much easier that way, less frustrating and gives you the opportunity to do what ever else needs doing while you're in there anyways.

Next, remove all clear coat with a paint remover, I used the 1867 that is pictured. Once you think the CC is off, remove the rest of it, it starts to hide and can be kind of difficult at times, maybe you might even have to use a bit of 260 sand paper or 0000 steel wool.

Next you need to determine whether you need to sand your piece or just polish, my guess is that you'll need some kind of sandpaper to get rid of any blemishes. Don't worry too much, all blemishes can be removed, it just takes a little more time, and a little more money so to speak. Start with 600 wet dry paper and see how it goes, if it get rid of what bothers you, fine, if not go to something a little coarser. Go lightly at first and then only increase the pressure if needed. I also used an orbital sander with 220 grit for the really bad pieces, but it will leave you some work to do to get rid of the deeper scratches.

Once you have the sanding as smooth as possible, it is time to go to the buffing wheel. In this case I found that narrower is better. You'll also need to have buffing compound. There are different colors, and I found that green, black or red worked just fine, and I couldn't really tell the difference in the finish, but then maybe I not fussy enough. A trick here is to let the buffing wheel get the piece hot, so it's a good idea to wear gloves. As the piece heats up you'll find it starts to shine and the wheel does it's work.

Once you have attained the shine that will impress all that ogle your machine it is time to put a lasting finish on it. Like I said before, I used clear coat, and this time I didn't, I used Classic Cloth instead. So far so good, it's been 3 years on the engine covers and I didn't polish them even once, just cleaned then with Pledge, the same as the rest of the bike. The front of the water pump cover does have some pitting, but that can easily be taken care of with a little polish, and maybe wouldn't be like that at all if I have put a wax on there to keep it nice.

So it all sounds rather simple, and really is, it just takes some time, sandpaper, 0000 steel wool, buffing wheel and some buffing compound, along with the paint stripper and some gloves, one pair for the stripper, and the other a leather pair for polishing.

 

 

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/classiccloth_300.jpghttp://www.dirtyparts.com/store/detail.cfm/CLASSIC-CLOTH-POLISHING-CLOTH/pid-114421

[deepforkriver]

And if you have a bowl of household cooking flour, put your part in it AFTER you have polished it. Rub the part around with your hands and all the polishing compound will magically disappear to leave a clean shiny part! Use air hose to blow what's left of flour off part.

 

Got that from a body shop friend years ago.

 

If I could add, not to press too hard against the buffing wheel on aluminum but to try using different compounds, coarse to fine. Just what I've learned...

 

p.s. works great on bottom side of floor boards...

 

James

[Yammer Dan]

More Work.....

[SilvrT]

I've done a fair amount of polishing on aluminum bike parts as well as aluminum wheels.

 

Aside from removing old clear-coat, etc I have only ever used Solvall Autosol. It does an amazing job; however, a bit tricky when using a polishing wheel as too much pressure, too much heat, etc... causes it to "cake" and then it's a pain. One other "trick" I learned to clean things up before polishing is to use between 1000 and 2000 grit wet-or-dry (using it wet of course) sandpaper.

 

Have never tried buffing compound but maybe I will next time just for comparison.

[Brake Pad]

Bike must be heavy to lift?????

[dacheedah]

did you reclear the aluminum??

[Marcarl]

did you reclear the aluminum??

No I didn't this last time, I did back in 2006 when I first did them, but the clear went bad, so this time I just used Classic Cloth, and so far am quite happy.

[Jayceesfolly]

Thanks, Carl.

I guess I will try this on my 89. I was going to send the pieces to you but since you have told me how to do it, I guess I will keep the pieces and do them myself. They are not that bad, just the clear coat is starting to come off and I wanted to clean them and then polish them.

 

Thanks for a great explanation.

 

Jim

[Brake Pad]

Mother's Chrome & Aluminum Polish:mo money:

[yooper]

Carl, whats the deal with the clear coat was it bad or what> Yoop

[Marcarl]

Carl, whats the deal with the clear coat was it bad or what> Yoop

The clear coat went bad, all started to go hazy and break up, so I did the front forks again with a different clear coat and it went funny as well, so that's why I went the Classic Cloth route,,,, also have tried Mothers, Autosol and a host of other potions, none worked as well as CC. They all seemed to clean to some extent, but none had staying power so to speak.