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dwichert

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Denny,

 

Just a quick question, how much money do you think your going to spend making it? The reason I ask this is because you might be surprised that after it's done you spent more than perhaps buying one outright.

 

I have built several trailers for myself and other members. A minimum of $450 is a good number to keep in mind. There are lots of extras that can pop up. I dont know if you have looked at the Piggy Backer, but it is a nice trailer for reasonable money http://piggybacker.stehltow.com/

 

I dont know how handy you are, it could get over your head quick, I'm not saying that to be mean. Just that I have been fabricating for many years, and would hate to see you pull your hair out. I have some pics that I have to dig up...let me see what I can come up with.

 

Here is another site about building, it's a bit dated, but gives good advise

 

http://www.gadgetjq.com/trailer.htm

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Denny,

The tongue length should be about 36" and the trailer shouldn't be too much wider than the bike. The cheapest route is to buy a Harbor Freight trailer and modify it to fit your needs.

I take all the running gear from one of these trailers and shorten the axle, build a frame from thinwall square tubing, add an aluminum deck, weld on some uprights and screw on some cypress boards to make a stake body that weighs about 150 pounds. I use big tupperware type containers to haul my tent and supplies. Total cost about $350.

Hope this info helps. I'll post a picture in my gallery.

 

AL GUY

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Why buy a trailer when you can build one for more? Exactly as Squidley says, do the homework before you start. I am into trailers for a living. I have built and bought trailers. I just committed to buy a trailer to haul my Rhino. I figured I can't build for what I can buy for. The manufacturers buy supplies for less than I can, and I buy for wholesale. Watch it close. What I am saying is why build when you can buy for less. The reason to build is to have something you want and can not buy. Or just for the satisfaction. Just the way I see it.

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Here's a picture of two trailers I built........

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/01REDWING/OutsideDone4.jpg?t=1198347519

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/01REDWING/NuggetIIandWing.jpg?t=1198348239

 

 

 

 

I seem to recall the general rule of thumb being the axle should be away from the hitch aproximatly 2/3 of the total length. That being said --- the longer the tongue the more stability. Of course you can carry that way too far. You don't want to be pulling a "boat trailer" :whistling::whistling::whistling:

 

 

A lot will have to do with the size of cargo area you are looking at. Just make sure the tongue is for sure long enough so the cargo box doesn't hit the bike in a tight turn....:smile5::smile5::smile5:

 

 

Take into consideration what the others have said. I like to build things and have to say there are no trailers like the ones I make..... :hurts::hurts:

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Heres mine just click photo gallery.

Harbor Fraight trailer Sears X20 cargo box.

 

Like the others have said you can tie up a fortune in buiding it yourself.

 

If I would not of had the trailer to start with and owning it for 20 years I think I would of just bought a completed trailer and really wished I had.

 

When I first got the trailer it was 79.00 + tax and the cargo box was a Montgomery Wards used for 10 bucks and the cooler for 3.00 at a garage sale and it worked and still does, but it needs up grading.

 

This new X20 was 140.00 on sale and I need to modifie the trailer with L.E.D's and new fenders as well as lifts for the box to open at a good height and new bumper and new 12volt cooler.

 

Probably will cost me a extra 300.00 all said and done..........Ron

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Here is some pics of the one I made. I went to Tractor supply for the box and harbor freight for the kit. I mounted the toungue in the forward set of holes and then drilled xtra holes in the front of the frame. The frame was cut down to fit the box I mounted and it turned out to be approx. the same width as my bike.The only thing I would have done differantly would be to buy the 60" box instead of the 48" one.I could have bought the piggybacker for around the same price as I have in mine ---but mine is shiney --like chrome-- and it isn't as wide as the piggy. But for the money the piggy is hard to beat just as a simple hauler. :080402gudl_prv:

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Guest tessa c2

HI i had built mine and the important thing to keep in mind also is balance, and level ness, on mine i had just went to a bike wrecker and picked up a set of tires and rims from him and strripped off the break rotors, i had bought one of those light trailors from canadian tire, and ended up using the leaf springs from it and that was it, the rest is from square tubing, then on frount i had built in a area for a cooler, or quite often carrie my stove and lanturen fuel up there stuff that might give off an oder that will be absorbed by the wifes luggage, usually she isn't a happy camper when that happens, then the next thing is weight, my habit is packing the whole shop, but play it from there. have fun.... pete

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I built a trailer using the black Harbor Freight trailer (40" x50") w 12" wheels and the decking included.

 

On top of that I mounted to PU truck boxes back to back. those aluminum ones are very light and best of all they are locked.

 

The biggest thing I can tell you is to use a swivel hitch on the trailer. I teste it with the std hitch and found that the trailer fought like a bear when turning. with the swivel hitch you will not notice it is there.

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Denny,

 

Here are a few trailer pics that I have. The 1st ones are of a trailer that Dragonrider sold for a friend. The Diamondplate one is one I built out of a truck utility box. I customized it with Lights off a 1st gen, Marcarl owns it now. The last pic is the setup my wife and I rode through the dragon with...trailer and all. Just for an idea of how it performs, we have put better than 20000 miles on that trailer pulling it behind several different Ventures :)

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