Semi-retired Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share #26 Posted July 10, 2012 AS FAR AS I KNOW, you cannot parts the stuff, you actually have the buy the whole rear end. I also noticed something horrible. WHERE IS THE GREASE?! THat WHOLE thing should be lubbed up with grease man! ITS BARE! Utterly! 650-1100 need lots of lub, preferably the water ignorant and high temp. NOT high pressure. That kind of lube is what actualyl keeps that drive shaft going! Nope! I was able to order JUST the splined (now UNsplined) hub for just $160. Thank goodnes.....cause I'm sure the entire assembly would have been closer to $1000. Yeah.........WHERE's the grease is RIGHT! That's Pi** poor design on Yamaha's part that this thing would be so open to "the elements" as to be BONE DRY after 8 years of age and VERY minimal driving.......AND indoor storage. Crazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMidnight Posted July 10, 2012 Share #27 Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) Odd.... she should of been re-packed every time that rear tire was removed. The 650 still had lube on it three months prior to the tire replacement in 2009. From 2000-2008 that bike was neglected (by the time the rear drive screwed itself, we had replaced 9 allens that had rusted over) Edited July 10, 2012 by JohnMidnight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted July 10, 2012 Share #28 Posted July 10, 2012 Get some Moly Grease. Honda seems to be the favorite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semi-retired Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share #29 Posted July 10, 2012 Get some Moly Grease. Honda seems to be the favorite. Before I put ON the Moly, my next question is........you could see all the powder created by the grinding of gears and the disintegration of the O-ring.......what's the best solvent to clean up this mess......without dissolving the rubber of the seals around the bearings? (I will, of course, be careful not to get ANYTHING inside the bearings........but I need to get into the general area with something other than "soap and water"! LOL) Is Gunk safe? Or gasoline (in a vented area)? Mineral spirits??? I've got 'em all......just wondering what's best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray Ghost Posted July 10, 2012 Share #30 Posted July 10, 2012 Page 6-12 is the page in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMidnight Posted July 10, 2012 Share #31 Posted July 10, 2012 Mineral Spirits. We use that here at the shop, I've not seen it cause any harm to rubber >.> Mineral Spirits, Brake Parts cleaner + Air Hose (you know to blast away everything else.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted July 11, 2012 Share #32 Posted July 11, 2012 That sounds good. I have used a rag dipped in gas. Don't think it leaves anything behind to hurt any thing. I make sure it dries good before the lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semi-retired Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share #33 Posted July 12, 2012 Page 6-12 is the page in the manual. I believe the pages you're referring to are dedicated to the "final drive" gears at the end of the drive shaft. What I'm referring to (and the part that is the big problem on these bikes.........as well as on our Ventures) is the splined hub that is inside the centre section of the wheel itself......not part of the "differential" hub where the oil-bathed pinion and ring gear are located. Those gears are not a problem, since they run in a sealed chamber in an oil BATH. I'm referring to the toothed splines...one inner, one outer that are between that differential housing and the inner hub of the wheel itself. (See my photos in my earlier post in this thread.) Are there any other pages in any manual that refer to these parts? (Or, if I'm missing something......please send me a photo or a scan of the pages that cover these parts!) Thanks for any input.......especially from V-Star owners. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray Ghost Posted July 13, 2012 Share #34 Posted July 13, 2012 Page 6-12 is part of the rear wheel and brake disc section. That was the part that was in most of your posted photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semi-retired Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share #35 Posted July 13, 2012 Page 6-12 is part of the rear wheel and brake disc section. That was the part that was in most of your posted photos. Ah, thanks, Cliff. Don't know what I was looking at........maybe I was having a brain fart or something........but just couldn't seem to call up that picture for love nor money. The detail is a little sketchy as far as where, exactly, those O-rings go......(I'm assuming that what looks like a piece of petrified dinosaur poop wrapped around my splined hub is what's supposed to be an O-ring.) (I ordered one of them so I should be OK). The other one looks to still be in good condition, so hopefully it just needs to be re-lubed. So, Clliff, is it your impression that these splines inside the hub are wanting Lithium Soap-based grease?.......not the Moly that everyone seems to be talking about? (I'm assuming the Moly is for the splines at the front end of the drive shaft....where it goes into the motor.....and possibly on the back end, although I haven't SEEN that end of the shaft yet......and hope not to. Thanks for sending the 6-12 pic......that sorted things out a little better in my head...and now I see an actual step-by-step procedure for reassembling the thing I just tore apart piece by piece! Later, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gray Ghost Posted July 13, 2012 Share #36 Posted July 13, 2012 The following are my opinions on the situation: O-Rings. You are having a problem with things because something was not sealed up correctly. If it were me, I would replace both O-Rings, no matter what they look like. A couple of bucks is cheap compared to the cost of the hub failure. Bearings and Oil Seal. If you had to physically remove any of these, I would replace them as well. You can't always tell when one of these has sustained some damage. Lithium Soap Grease vs Moly. The schoolbook answer is that you always use whatever Yamaha recommends, preferably using a Yamaha brand. However, Moly is a good lubricant and is widely used by folks who put a lot of miles on their bikes. If I was doing the job on my bike, I would use moly. While you are already in the area, I would lube everything I could. Better to do it while you have things already torn apart then to have to tear it apart to to do over at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semi-retired Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share #37 Posted July 13, 2012 The following are my opinions on the situation: O-Rings. You are having a problem with things because something was not sealed up correctly. If it were me, I would replace both O-Rings, no matter what they look like. A couple of bucks is cheap compared to the cost of the hub failure. Bearings and Oil Seal. If you had to physically remove any of these, I would replace them as well. You can't always tell when one of these has sustained some damage. Lithium Soap Grease vs Moly. The schoolbook answer is that you always use whatever Yamaha recommends, preferably using a Yamaha brand. However, Moly is a good lubricant and is widely used by folks who put a lot of miles on their bikes. If I was doing the job on my bike, I would use moly. While you are already in the area, I would lube everything I could. Better to do it while you have things already torn apart then to have to tear it apart to to do over at some point. Agreed on ALL your points.......and, trust me, there isn't ANYTHING that isn't getting a liberal coat of SOMETHING........except maybe the brake pads, which, by the way, I'm also replacing "while I'm in there!" Hell, I'm even putting in a new set of plugs......and they're not even CLOSE to the back wheel! LOL. The only thing that bugs me is that a "tub" of Lithium grease (the smallest one they had at my friendly NY Yamaha dealer) was $30!!! And that would be a 20 year supply. Guess I'll have to search Canadian Tire for a smaller "tube" or something! You can call me cheap...........I calls it FRUGAL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMidnight Posted July 15, 2012 Share #38 Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) We used Valvoline Dura Blend on the rear. It's high temp, which is what we didn't use when coating the splines along the shaft, its also water resistant. We ended up with a tub, which was fine. We wanted to coat that rear good. As my boss tells me. Its usually the grease that'll keep the water away. Edited July 15, 2012 by JohnMidnight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted October 14, 2012 Share #39 Posted October 14, 2012 Here is a great Knowledge Base for Vstar 1100 http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/VStar1100-FAQ.htm This a great Forum for Vstar 1100 http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted October 18, 2012 Share #40 Posted October 18, 2012 I had an '02 Suzuki Volusia that "clicked" when I rolled it backward, so I cleaned what little grease there was off the splines and housing and re-packed it with hi-pressure wheel bearing grease, also did the same to the front u-joint splines. I had the same thing happen on the Venture, so when I took it in to the dealer for the repair, (covered under the 5 year warranty), I asked him what they used, he said hi-pressure wheel bearing grease, and very liberally. I keep a small tub in the garage anyway, so now I just clean, check, and repack the splines when it's apart, usually for tires. Apparently the Japanese are very stingy with grease when they put them together as the Suzuki only had a light film smeared around the splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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