reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Share #1 Posted May 1, 2012 i installed skydocs ss kit and delink...whew!...now i cant cant brakes bled. help?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 1, 2012 Share #2 Posted May 1, 2012 i installed skydocs ss kit and delink...whew!...now i cant cant brakes bled. help?! Take a zip tie or whatever and clamp the front lever all the way back. Leave it overnight. When you remove zip tie, then slightly crack open banjo bolt at master and gently pull lever in. This will allow air that was in line to escape. Tighten banjo bolt before releasing lever. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted May 1, 2012 do i leave bleeders closed? cover on the master? and when i udo zip tie, do i let lever go back at all?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 1, 2012 Share #4 Posted May 1, 2012 (edited) do i leave bleeders closed? cover on the master? and when i udo zip tie, do i let lever go back at all?? Pump it several times to get maximum pressure and apply zip tie. Leave bleeders closed. Cover stays on master, at least that is what I do. If it is off, brake fluid will absorb moisture. Remove zip tie, let lever return to normal, then bleed at banjo right away by slightly pulling lever & opening banjo bolt. I just did this to mine, and it went from no lever to fantastic lever. Gary Edited May 1, 2012 by dingy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #5 Posted May 1, 2012 i will try it, but, i get nothing moving thru the front or rear.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 1, 2012 Share #6 Posted May 1, 2012 i will try it, but, i get nothing moving thru the front or rear.... Do you still have linked (stock) brakes? If not then operation is Front lever only does right front caliper. Rear does left front & rear. Look at underlined text I put in previous post, I edited it. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted May 1, 2012 i delinked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted May 1, 2012 Share #8 Posted May 1, 2012 Vacuum pump and speed bleeders! Works for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 1, 2012 Share #9 Posted May 1, 2012 Vacuum pump and speed bleeders! Works for me... Didn't help a bit with my new setup. I was pulling straight fluid out with the mighty vac on both sides. No bubbles. Speed Bleeders with fresh teflon tape on them. Very little lever till I did The "Yammer Zip". Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #10 Posted May 1, 2012 yammer zip?? i dont have a vacuum... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 1, 2012 Share #11 Posted May 1, 2012 yammer zip?? i dont have a vacuum... Yammer Dan was who I learned about the zip tie trick from. He will forever be known for this and his penchant for Sea Foam. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #12 Posted May 1, 2012 well...i went out there and yelled at it! i told it i was gonna buy a Super Tenere if it didnt cooperate...then, i put new teflon on the rear bleeder, and IT WORKED! too tired to try the front. i also did Progressives today, and im exhausted...to be continued... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #13 Posted May 1, 2012 zip tie trick didnt work. no resistance on lever...at all. i have speedbleeders, fresh teflon, and still no lever. i checked all bango fitting and retightened them. ???????"? now what??? should i go to town and get something to force fluid UP the lines from the bleeders? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted May 1, 2012 Share #14 Posted May 1, 2012 zip tie trick didnt work. no resistance on lever...at all. i have speedbleeders, fresh teflon, and still no lever. i checked all bango fitting and retightened them. ???????"? now what??? should i go to town and get something to force fluid UP the lines from the bleeders? Mike I just sent you a PM that may help.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBJ Posted May 1, 2012 Share #15 Posted May 1, 2012 Did you ask Earl about this? He should know what might be wrong. Could something have gone wrong in the installation? I still have my linked system intact. I had a soft pedal too upon getting it home. Replaced all pads and it was still soft. Used the vacuum like Bob recommended and then adjusted the pedal and now its like new. The pedal adjustment was the final thing it needed though you'd think with the new pads front and back it wouldn't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #16 Posted May 1, 2012 i talked to earl at great length. i rebuilt m/c. i had a rebuild kit lying around. then i did what condor said. i filled lines from REGULAR bleeders slowly till it fill m/c. one side at a time. then capped it, pulled lever....nothing. no resistance on lever. pads didnt seat. calipers didnt move at all. what i did notice was this...i removed the bango at the m/c. i tried pumping fluid just out the m/c. its not pushing out. is that wrong? is it cause its not under pressure? lost.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted May 1, 2012 Share #17 Posted May 1, 2012 Yes you could try to reverse pressure bleed your master cylinder. Put the regular bleeder back in as you need to force brake fluid into the caliper. You need to buy a hand vacuum pump which should run you around $30 at auto zone, advanced auto, etc. Do NOT go to a NAPA dealer and spend twice as much for the same pump!! You then want to remove all the fluid from your resovoir and then use the hand pump and proceed to pump fluid from the bottle via a vinyl plastic tube into the hand pump and into the caliper. Eventually you should see the resovoir start to fill up. Word of warning, there will be some spitting going on so have rags around your master cylinder and cover the resovoir with a rag. Do not screw the cover on as you need a place for the air to go freely... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBJ Posted May 1, 2012 Share #18 Posted May 1, 2012 I was told that there's no pressure to the rear master cylinder its a drip feed thats not under any pressure. But as I pumped my brakes the resevoir eventually went down. FYI: Two years ago I did the brakes on my 85 and my son and I found we had to really pump those suckers to get all the air out, This year i used the pump Bob mentioned and had little trouble. I assume the calipers were working before the brake modification. My rear was in sad shape when I finally got to putting in the new pads. I know there's a proportioning valve AND a metering valve to the front does earls kit effect either of these as it de-links the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted May 1, 2012 Share #19 Posted May 1, 2012 Another thing that helps is to remove the fitting from the master cylinder and use your finger like a check valve. This will cause a vacuum when the lever is released and will pull fluid into the piston area. Once you are getting fluid, put the fitting back on and it should start pumping. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #20 Posted May 1, 2012 it separates the front and rear/ no more proportioning valve. the front handle is for both front calipers now. i did force fluid UP from the calipers to the m/c. it DID fil up. but when i squeeze lever to seat pads....nothing. i then tried to bleed as normal...still nothing. no lever pressure. i rebuilt master too, nothing. i must be doing something wrong.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #21 Posted May 1, 2012 Another thing that helps is to remove the fitting from the master cylinder and use your finger like a check valve. This will cause a vacuum when the lever is released and will pull fluid into the piston area. Once you are getting fluid, put the fitting back on and it should start pumping. RandyA i will try that now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted May 1, 2012 Share #22 Posted May 1, 2012 i talked to earl at great length. i rebuilt m/c. i had a rebuild kit lying around. then i did what condor said. i filled lines from REGULAR bleeders slowly till it fill m/c. one side at a time. then capped it, pulled lever....nothing. no resistance on lever. pads didnt seat. calipers didnt move at all. what i did notice was this...i removed the bango at the m/c. i tried pumping fluid just out the m/c. its not pushing out. is that wrong? is it cause its not under pressure? lost.... When you rebuilt the master which directiion did you install the cup?? If it's on backwards you won't get any pressure..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted May 1, 2012 Share #23 Posted May 1, 2012 Yup!! What he said!!^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share #24 Posted May 1, 2012 i replicated what came out. cups facing out, towards line. i tried again, and still nothing. its like the master isnt moving fluid. it just sits and the end of the cylinder and goes noes further. i get bubbles when i depress lever. just no pressure. could it be the master is so old that the cups are against the walls good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted May 1, 2012 Share #25 Posted May 1, 2012 i replicated what came out. cups facing out. The rim of the cup goes into the barrel first. Bottom toward the lever.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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