Guest tesnevo Posted January 14, 2008 Share #26 Posted January 14, 2008 Unfortunately, I don't remember specifics of the wire connections - they are documented elsewhere on this site or the other Venture sites. One of the coils is right under the tank, so that is an easy connection point. I tapped one of the hot wires coming off the ignition switch for the main power - I got "lucky" in a weird way - the wire I chose goes dead when I turn on the four-way flashers! I thought this was strange and a PIA at first, but I have come to like it as an extra reminder if I leave the flashers on for some reason. You may find the blue LED light in that tach too bright at night - many do. Easy to reduce it with a small dropping resistor in series. Try around 100 - 150 ohms as a start and go to 220 or 330 if you still want it dimmer. Goose One question for you please. The resistor, Radio Shack I assume, is just wires/soldered in on the LED light hot wire, correct? Could you specify/link the type of resistor to use also. I want t make sure to get the right one. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhoffmanlv Posted January 14, 2008 Share #27 Posted January 14, 2008 Great info..!! And concerning the resistor. Since we can tie the red and yellow together , will they both run thru the resistor or just the yellow wire ?? And as a reminder the documentation says " Yellow wire to lamp on " , " Red wire to Ignition "on" DC 12v ".. I am going to try Bummer's suggestion and tie into the coil, for both signal and hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bummer Posted January 15, 2008 Share #28 Posted January 15, 2008 Great info..!! And concerning the resistor. Since we can tie the red and yellow together , will they both run thru the resistor or just the yellow wire ?? And as a reminder the documentation says " Yellow wire to lamp on " , " Red wire to Ignition "on" DC 12v ".. I am going to try Bummer's suggestion and tie into the coil, for both signal and hot.Sounds to me like you need to run green to the small lug (signal) then add the resistor to the light's wire and tie that and the red wire together and route them to the large lug on the coil (light gets resistor, power does not). The Baron's tach has a short two wire harness with piggy backs on one end and a standard lugs (female I think) on the other. I didn't even have to pull the coil to do the install. If your wires are long enough you only need a couple of piggy backs. Bear in mind that the small one is not a standard size. A standard lug will take a little file work on the male side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted January 15, 2008 Share #29 Posted January 15, 2008 You only want the dropping resistor in circuit with the light, not the power to the tach, so if you connect them to the same place, hook the light wire to the resistor, then the other side of the resistor to the power. Personally, I would slip a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the whole resistor and bare wire connections to insulate it all after I was sure I had the right size to make the dash light just as bright (or dim) as I wanted. Since this light is just an LED, the amount of current flow is very small and will not generate any heat. The smallest resistor you can find (probably 1/8th watt) is just fine, but a larger one won't hurt anything either. Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhoffmanlv Posted January 17, 2008 Share #30 Posted January 17, 2008 Thanks for the information.. I was able to physically mount the tach today. Looks Great! Will be a couple of days before I can break the bike down and do the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhoffmanlv Posted January 22, 2008 Share #31 Posted January 22, 2008 Wired up the tach yesterday! Used the coil location for signal and power, and went with the 150 ohm resistor.. I will go back and redo my electrical connection at the coil when I get a multi-stack connector or Double Male-Female Adapter . I modified a lug to work for now. Really appreciate all the helpfull input!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tesnevo Posted January 26, 2008 Share #32 Posted January 26, 2008 That is not the same tach - it is over 2"; the mini I use is 1 7/8". You can also tell by looking closely at the face - Drag Specialties is on the bottom instead of the top. Another key indicator in the pictures is the mounting tab - the small one shows just a straight mounting tab sticking down, and the more common 2.4" tach has a "V" shaped mounting tab. Here is one source: http://www.phatperformanceparts1.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=7805-6947 The part number for the black one is 7805-6948. I do NOT use the bar clamp that comes with this tach - it is large and uses pinch blocks that can mar the chrome. I prefer the Fomotion clock mount - very nice chrome unit, but costs about $20. I have also used a simple 1" "P" clamp from JCW - those only cost about $3. To mount it under the dash, I have to remove the bracket, put it in a vise, and bend it back 90 degrees. Here are pictures of the tach mounting and both the black and white tachs together for comparison. Sorry for the poor quality - took them with my cell phone: [ATTACH]14423[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]14422[/ATTACH] Goose I bought theses and got them in. Love the idea and way you thought it out. I have a buddy that had one of these on his bike http://www.jpcycles.com/productdetail.aspx?PID=ZZ56008&cs=Metric&GID=EB3AD6C5-731E-4D6A-A003-ADDE0847E79A&store=&page=&search=&brand=lightningperformance and thats what I went with. I will post pics when I hopefully get it installed. BTW: I will sell the Drag spec. gauge and mount for 85.00 plus shipping if anyone wants it. ramacam@msn.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted January 26, 2008 Share #33 Posted January 26, 2008 I bought theses and got them in. Love the idea and way you thought it out. I have a buddy that had one of these on his bike http://www.jpcycles.com/productdetail.aspx?PID=ZZ56008&cs=Metric&GID=EB3AD6C5-731E-4D6A-A003-ADDE0847E79A&store=&page=&search=&brand=lightningperformance and thats what I went with. I will post pics when I hopefully get it installed. BTW: I will sell the Drag spec. gauge and mount for 85.00 plus shipping if anyone wants it. ramacam@msn.com Yup, I looked at those way back when too, but I just couldn't accept the idea of paying over $300 for a gauge! It's not that I couldn't afford it, just that their price seems out of line with what I view as reality. When that happens I look for alternatives instead of supporting them. But it looks really nice, and I'm sure it will be fantastic on your bike! Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon_One Posted January 26, 2008 Share #34 Posted January 26, 2008 Yup, I looked at those way back when too, but I just couldn't accept the idea of paying over $300 for a gauge! It's not that I couldn't afford it, just that their price seems out of line with what I view as reality. When that happens I look for alternatives instead of supporting them. But it looks really nice, and I'm sure it will be fantastic on your bike! Goose Gotta agree here with Goose too. I hate over paying for anything and will avoid doing so if possible. Yea I know there's times it can't be avoided too. At that point I'll either forego the item, put that idea on nold, or bite the bullet and open the wallet. All depends on how bad I want something. I added a pair of gauges to my bike last year- a voltage gauge and a Drag Specilities tach. mounted them both in bullet cups on the handle bars. I did a write up on them but it may have been lost with the sites crash. I'll check and if I don't see that article I'll post a couple pics of my set up here. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tesnevo Posted January 27, 2008 Share #35 Posted January 27, 2008 Don't get me wrong, it's truly absurd that they bend us over for anything in the motorcycle industry. I hate paying "extra" for anything and avoid it at all cost too. But sometimes something just catches my eye and common sense has no price. Hence the gage. It is too much but it is nice. So we will see how it works out. If I don't like it I can always look forward to doing the good old fashioned "Ebay for a loss" thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon_One Posted January 27, 2008 Share #36 Posted January 27, 2008 Yep we've all been there- done that too. Even to the point of actually spending more for personal mods than actually paying the stealers prices for their goods. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tesnevo Posted January 30, 2008 Share #37 Posted January 30, 2008 Finally I got the heavy sucker in. I tell you that you really don't appreciate 5lbs of milled Billet Aluminum until you actually hold it. :-) The hardest part was figuring out how to get the back on. Once I figured that out the rest was simple. I ended up splicing new connectors on the coil pickup ends though. I don't trust the "piggyback" method too well. So all in all it went well. As a nice bonus it glows a cool looking blue to match the scoot. Didn't know that when I ordered it so that was a nice surprise. Quite happy so far. ( now if it works) [ATTACH]14969[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]14970[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]14971[/ATTACH] Now I have my: ADJURE HID HI/LOW MARSHALL MOD LEVELING LINKS BARONS RISERS DIAMOND R PASSENGER PEGS UTOPIA BACKREST W/PASENGER HEADSET PLUG HIDDEN HERE DRIVING LIGHTS W/SPACER CLEARVIEW WINDSHIELD W/VENT ZUMO 550 W/XM PIPED THROUGH AND DID THE HIDEAWAY PLUG MOD ALL LED CONVERSION LIGHTS IN ALL TURNS SIGNALS RUN TURN BRAKE MOD ON REAR TURN SIGNALS USEING THE CUSTOM DYNAMICS YELLOW RING RED CENTER LED (THAT WAS NOT FUN) DYNA 3000? WHATEVER ITS CALLED IGNITION CONTROLLER K&N FILTERS W/O MODDING THE AIRBOX NEW DRY-CELL BATTERY (FORGOT THE NAME) Now I need to sell the bike and re-coup some money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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