dingy Posted February 7, 2012 Share #51 Posted February 7, 2012 I am now working out of town again so regular mail is fine. Fork wrench ? Are you talking about the triple tree nut wrench ? I bought one from....(you?) Off the forum. Is there a diffrent wrench ? Thanks Bill I didn't remember you had wrench. The washers went out in todays mail, regular 1st class. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share #52 Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) Just want to clarify for anybody that may read this thread in the future, the mistakes I made so far doing this process . I removed the forks because of issues with the upper triple tree bearings . They were rock solid with dry grease . 10 minutes in Mineral Spirits made them like new. Anyways, either way, on the bike or off the bike, after removing the dust covers from the lower forks, then remove the clip inside the lower fork just above the seal. Then use the lower forks as the slide hammer . IF..the forks are on the bike DO NOT try to use the upper forks as the slide hammer by sliding them upwards... or do it by yourself. Get a friend to help. Have your friend ,wife ,neighbor or well trained pet to hold the forks up in the air shoulder height and then you use the lower forks to slam down to dislodge the seals . Now...be prepared that small parts may go flying .There are 2 silver bushing like pieces , 6 small washers and two other metal cup like saucers . Do not slam the forks upward in any way. Those pieces described above will be damaged. Easy..easy slide up...full force sliding down . After 90. Minutes of sliding the crap out of it , damaging the small pieces...it only took one attempt with my friend holding it up and me sliding the lowers down. Now...if I can only get it all back together..... Edited February 8, 2012 by KIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share #53 Posted February 7, 2012 I do also HIGHLY recommend buying Dingy's steering nut tool . It is quality and really made the nut removal a breeze . Already got one compliment on it from a friend.who saw it sitting on my gas cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share #54 Posted February 8, 2012 I didn't remember you had wrench. The washers went out in todays mail, regular 1st class. Gary Thank you Gary..you are a gentleman and a scholar... That's my story and I'm sticking to it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share #55 Posted February 10, 2012 Dingy......Received the washers yesterday. THANK YOU !!! Hopefully, if I am in town tomorrow, I can start the re-assembly portion. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share #56 Posted February 11, 2012 So ..is there a way to take off the cross bar where the air lines hook into ? I cannot figure out how that is attached to the upper forks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 11, 2012 Share #57 Posted February 11, 2012 So ..is there a way to take off the cross bar where the air lines hook into ? I cannot figure out how that is attached to the upper forks. It just slips off the top. The o-rings don't want to let it slide very easily. Lots of twisting of the fork tube to work it off. On each fork, above the air connector, is a foam rubber donut. Watch for them, they like to fall BEHIND the radiator. Below the connector is a circlip that needs to be removed before you can pull the tube through the lower tree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share #58 Posted February 11, 2012 Re-read my post and realized I didn't explain my question very well. The two air "valves"? that are on the upper tubes above the lower portion of the triple tree are rock solid with no apparent way to remove them. I have the forks off the bike. Is it worth removing them to install the seals or am I just asking for more repairs and parts to put it back together ? Thanks Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 11, 2012 Share #59 Posted February 11, 2012 As MiCarl said, there is nothing holding these in place other than the friction of two o-rings in each one. Light tapping around the bottom surface towards top of tube should loosen them up. Maybe some WD-40 in both sides would help. As plan 'B', I have spares if you fubar them up. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted February 11, 2012 Share #60 Posted February 11, 2012 I seem to be getting nowhere separating the upper and lower... am I missing something ? Can/will I damage something using the upper as a slide hammer? HELP....I've fallen and I can't get up..... Deleted after I found a 3rd and fourth page . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share #61 Posted February 11, 2012 As MiCarl said, there is nothing holding these in place other than the friction of two o-rings in each one. Light tapping around the bottom surface towards top of tube should loosen them up. Maybe some WD-40 in both sides would help. As plan 'B', I have spares if you fubar them up. Gary Thanks... I might be getting spoiled having the Dingy Parts House at my beck and call. We need to open a tab... I'm going in with the WD-40 and hammer....wish me luck...If i'm not back in 4 hours send help.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share #62 Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) Okay..another question... I was laying out the pieces..the many ..many pieces... and there are two pieces that came flying out when the upper and lower forks separated. I can not locate or identify where they go from the diagram below. They are a cup looking / flying saucer looking piece with a small rubber seal around the edge. I found and added another diagram...trying to ID that piece.. It looks like the very bottom piece in the lower forks that the "taper spindle" or as some have called it the "oil lock" would match up to. But I don't see it on the diagram. Edited February 11, 2012 by KIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted February 11, 2012 Share #63 Posted February 11, 2012 Okay..another question... I was laying out the pieces..the many ..many pieces... and there are two pieces that came flying out when the upper and lower forks separated. I can not locate or identify where they go from the diagram below. They are a cup looking / flying saucer looking piece with a small rubber seal around the edge. I found and added another diagram...trying to ID that piece.. It looks like the very bottom piece in the lower forks that the "taper spindle" or as some have called it the "oil lock" would match up to. But I don't see it on the diagram. Never seen them before, but looks like item #30 in my attached pdf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted February 11, 2012 Share #64 Posted February 11, 2012 Ok, now I am really confused. You show your bike as an '89. From what info I have the '86 - '87 models have the AD's on the front of the forks. The '88 - '93 has the AD's on the outsides of the forks. You may have something other than the original forks on there. Maybe someone can clear that up. I'm curious. But with that said I have never seen that part before in the forks I have opened. My two sets of '84 forks and supposedly an '87 that was so cobbled up inside it was hard telling what was what. Now I do have a set of '87's on the bench right now that I was going to open this weekend. Now I want to get in there and see what's inside. I agree with Rocket, they do look like the #30 in his diagram but the placement appears to be just below the upper bushing in the diagram. That don't seem right. I got to run to work for a bit but I'm going to open those up tonight and take a look. Got me on this one. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 11, 2012 Share #65 Posted February 11, 2012 I just looked at each years parts fiche, and that part was added in 1988 through 1993. It is called (30) 2WR-2318U-00-00 . PLATE, seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Picture is what Rocket posted. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted February 11, 2012 Share #66 Posted February 11, 2012 I agree with Rocket, they do look like the #30 in his diagram but the placement appears to be just below the upper bushing in the diagram. That don't seem right. Got me on this one. Mike Bill & I think they go in the very bottom of the lower fork tubes, below all the damper rod pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share #67 Posted February 11, 2012 Okay all; They did fit and install correctly at the very bottom. The oil lock/taper spindle fit together with it. For future reference, since that piece needs to be installed first, prior to the upper tubes and the assembly, I took a large paper clip and created a circle on the top portion and straightened the rest out straight. By feeding it down through the bottom hole, i was able to then bend the rest of the lip to hold it in place. Once I fed the assembly in with the oil lock and washers greased to hole them in place, I was able to pulled the paper clip out and connect the piece with the assembly. Got that ? Exam at 11:00. OKAY Got a new problem. Beside the high blood pressure this has caused me today. I was trying to install the seals. I couldn't get the seal to go down past the top of the lower tube. I looked at the other side and realized that the small floating bushing was sticking half way up into the seal area. I tried lightly tapping it but it didn't move down. Blood pressure moved up. SOooooo.... I now have to take the one upper and lower apart to remove the seal, and how do I get the bushings where they belong ? Are they binding on something ? Hard to take a picture but I tried below. In the picture you can see the bushing sticking up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 11, 2012 Share #68 Posted February 11, 2012 Attached are some pictures of a cut away of a 1988 fork and the oil lock & piece in question (seal plate). Also (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) per parts fiche I think I see how it goes together. The pocket in the bottom of the lower fork tube is different on the 88-93 versions, last picture shows a cut away of an 86 tube on top, and a 88 tube on bottom. The arent cut to the same length though. The lower tube has a pocket large enough to let this seal plate set in it. It wont set in the upper tube correctly. 5th picture shows it setting in the tube. 4th picture shows parts stack up with out thin washers I may not have the correct (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) mated up. I have quite a few off these. None of ones I can locate have the chamfer on the bottom, they may be in bike. I will know in a day or so if they are. KIC, post a picture of the bottom of the (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) that you have. On the seal plate I have, there is a chamfer on the ID where this (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) part would mate up to. There are also some marks on upper face that look to be correct size for bottom of oil lock. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 11, 2012 Share #69 Posted February 11, 2012 Okay all; They did fit and install correctly at the very bottom. The oil lock/taper spindle fit together with it. For future reference, since that piece needs to be installed first, prior to the upper tubes and the assembly, I took a large paper clip and created a circle on the top portion and straightened the rest out straight. By feeding it down through the bottom hole, i was able to then bend the rest of the lip to hold it in place. Once I fed the assembly in with the oil lock and washers greased to hole them in place, I was able to pulled the paper clip out and connect the piece with the assembly. Got that ? Exam at 11:00. OKAY Got a new problem. Beside the high blood pressure this has caused me today. I was trying to install the seals. I couldn't get the seal to go down past the top of the lower tube. I looked at the other side and realized that the small floating bushing was sticking half way up into the seal area. I tried lightly tapping it but it didn't move down. Blood pressure moved up. SOooooo.... I now have to take the one upper and lower apart to remove the seal, and how do I get the bushings where they belong ? Are they binding on something ? Hard to take a picture but I tried below. In the picture you can see the bushing sticking up. This bushing is not 'floating'. This is the part that was hanging up when you were trying to separate upper & lower tubes. It needs to be 'driven' into place. There was a post prior that showed a tool Snag, or someone else made to do this. I have a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe that will slide over inner tube. I have spare washers from extra fork sets that I use one of over the top of the bushing that needs driven in. This keeps pvc pipe from getting mangled on end. This bushing will be flush with the counterbore in the lower tube when seated. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share #70 Posted February 11, 2012 Thanks.. I overlooked that part. 6 hours today and I am actually further behind then when I started today. I have to break the uppers and lowers apart again, this time without hurting the new seal to put it back together with the bushing in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #71 Posted February 12, 2012 Got them back together and the bushings are now level with the lower lip. Will try the seals again tomorrow. Thanks for all the help and special thanks for the phone conversations with Rocket who helped walk me through a few spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share #72 Posted February 12, 2012 Attached are some pictures of a cut away of a 1988 fork and the oil lock & piece in question (seal plate). Also (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) per parts fiche I think I see how it goes together. The pocket in the bottom of the lower fork tube is different on the 88-93 versions, last picture shows a cut away of an 86 tube on top, and a 88 tube on bottom. The arent cut to the same length though. The lower tube has a pocket large enough to let this seal plate set in it. It wont set in the upper tube correctly. 5th picture shows it setting in the tube. 4th picture shows parts stack up with out thin washers I may not have the correct (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) mated up. I have quite a few off these. None of ones I can locate have the chamfer on the bottom, they may be in bike. I will know in a day or so if they are. KIC, post a picture of the bottom of the (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) that you have. On the seal plate I have, there is a chamfer on the ID where this (CYLINDER COMP., front fork) part would mate up to. There are also some marks on upper face that look to be correct size for bottom of oil lock. Gary Gary, All my pieces fit well together, once I figured it out. The 5th picture does show how it should set in. I could drop the seal plate in from the top and let it slide all the way down and I could see from the bottom hole that it appeared flush with the inside bottom of tube. The oil lock sits on the top with the 3 washers on top of it. I believe mine is original since nothing appeared to have ever been apart, I apologize for not completely understanding your request for pictures. I have taken some ( below) of my lower forks. If you want some others, just explain to me s l o w l y what you want and I will to get them posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 12, 2012 Share #73 Posted February 12, 2012 I see you pulled the anti dives off. Since they're off it's not a bad idea to make sure they actually work. Hook them up to the harness and pull the brake lever with the key turned on. You should see the plunger move in the ports. Since you've broken the seal it'd be wise to replace those o-rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 12, 2012 Share #74 Posted February 12, 2012 I was curious as to what the bottom of the tude looked like that the oil lock slides over. Is there a chamfer one the lower edge? The seal plates I have, there is a chamfer where it would mate together. Reason I ask is, I am rebuilding my forks, maybe tomorrow, and I may have the wrong set of these tubes in my forks. Not a rush as I am stripping the red powder coat of the lowers and redoing them black. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 12, 2012 Share #75 Posted February 12, 2012 If you put, or have progressives in, get a hold of Skydoc17. He makes a set of block off plates that will eliminate the next to useless anti dives. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3776&title=first-genmkii-vr-s-santi-dive-block-off-plates-21&cat=22 These electric ones are energy hogs if you are in slow traffic. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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