Sideoftheroad Posted January 14, 2012 Share #1 Posted January 14, 2012 I have an older Ryobi table saw that the top has a bunch of grooves on it. I prefer to have a flat smooth surface to easily glide the wood. Sometimes as it is the wood seems to stick to the surface. Any suggestions to make the top into a smooth surface? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 14, 2012 Share #2 Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) Johnsons paste wax. made of Bees wax? Make sure you wipe it really good after applying, it will make it super slick...and will sink into the pores of the cast iron or aluminum. if you don't get it all off, it could create areas that wont stain evenly... Cast Iron - clean first with wire wheel on grinder or wire brush.. Aluminum - clean first with a brass wire brush... never use a steel wire wheel or brush on aluminum as it will cause it to oxidize... Edited January 15, 2012 by CaptainJoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecdoo Posted January 14, 2012 Share #3 Posted January 14, 2012 Scrap pc of 1/4" corian screwed to the top with countersunk screws. Crank the saw blade thru the top:thumbsup: Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel Posted January 14, 2012 Share #4 Posted January 14, 2012 Scrap pc of 1/4" corian screwed to the top with countersunk screws. Crank the saw blade thru the top:thumbsup: Craig Or if you don't want to use screws, contact cement or Liquid Nails, whole new surface. 1/8 inch would work fine. This is how I finish work bench tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecdoo Posted January 14, 2012 Share #5 Posted January 14, 2012 Or if you don't want to use screws, contact cement or Liquid Nails, whole new surface. 1/8 inch would work fine. This is how I finish work bench tops. I thought of that but screws would allow him to remove top to access saw arbor to change blades:think: Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted January 14, 2012 Share #6 Posted January 14, 2012 You mean that saw blades do not last forever????? You have to change them??????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted January 14, 2012 Share #7 Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) cut out: the shape of a piano approximate size 2' x 2' from a piece of 1/2 plywood glue a hardwood straight edge on across the back top end say 3/4 W x 1/2 D x 2'L measure distance inside miter grove is from your saw blade. glue a piece of hardwood wood on the bottom of the plywood that will fit into your miter grove 3/8 D x 3/4W x 2'L(measure your groves height and width) it will be on the bottom, perpendicular to the top. Take your measurment #1 + a half an inch from the right hand top edge and attach. use wood glue and screws, you can remove screws when glue drys place into groove for miter, start table saw and push the plywood thru which will give you a perfectly fitting edge... this will give you a perfectly smooth surface that is square to your blade will take a pic in a couple min although mine is rpobably 3 ' x 3 ' here they are last pic is of the bottom. nice thing about using this is, if your wood is wet or rough on the bottom, it won't matter as the piece will be lifted and held securely the thickness of the plywoood you use. You can also cut raised panel doors easily smaller if your just doing lumber bigger if your doing larger dimensioned lumber the piano shape allows you get closer Edited January 14, 2012 by CaptainJoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Venturous Posted January 14, 2012 Share #8 Posted January 14, 2012 How do any of you all plan on the ripfence still fitting after raising the deck height? I rip stuff all the time and never felt it was a real issue unless I am ripping stuff in the rain. (which I do all the time) I just make sure the saw is ancored down good so it does not tip over or slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecdoo Posted January 14, 2012 Share #9 Posted January 14, 2012 Depends how your rip fence is fastned, if its on a rail on the front of the saw the rail will need to be raised, you are rite it will require some modification. He just asked for ideas, I just thru one out there. I agree a sliding table would also be a nice idea. I also agree will you I have never had the need to alter my saw table. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shorty Posted January 14, 2012 Share #10 Posted January 14, 2012 Mine had rust spots on it so I first sanded it down with 600 wet or dry, cleaned it up with paint thinner, let it dry and then put the paste wax on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sylvester Posted January 15, 2012 Share #11 Posted January 15, 2012 The Ryobi saw does not have miter grove in it. There is a product from Rockler that you spray on to make the surface slick. I use pure carnuba w/ beaswax and it works fine on my Ryobi. Keep it clean and waxed and you will have no problems. I love my Ryobi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted January 15, 2012 Share #12 Posted January 15, 2012 I clean mine with 00 steel wool and paint thinner. Once clean use furniture paste wax and wipe clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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