goatman123 Posted January 8, 2012 Share #1 Posted January 8, 2012 This is hopefully the last thing I have to do before getting this bike finally on the road. Looking for advice so I don't remove anything unnecessary. What all do I have to remove to get all the plug wires changed out? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 8, 2012 Share #2 Posted January 8, 2012 Ummmm, depends on how far you already have it torn down! The job is a whole lot simpler with both the upper fairings and the inner fairings out but at bare minimum you have to remove the false tank cover... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatman123 Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted January 8, 2012 Thanks, I will try with just false cover removed and see how it goes. I have had upper fairings off in the past before I realized the plug wires and caps were corroded, and don't really want to take them off again, if you know what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydoc_17 Posted January 8, 2012 Share #4 Posted January 8, 2012 Hey Matt, Happy New Year to you! Here at the shop, I have replaced about 50 sets of plug wires on the First Gen. VR's. I've learned a lot about this project, and am willing to share what I know. Things like the amount of patience you have, the size of your hands, and how "handy" you are with a wrench factor into this project. I remove both side covers, and the false tank cover. I remove the heat shields from the top of the engine. I pull the plug caps from all four plugs, but leave them in the general location of the spark plug. (when doing this for the first time, use a piece of masking tape to mark each plug cap to the cylinder number you are removing). I then remove the battery and battery box. (Many times, the battery box bolts, (qty. 2) are buggered up because of battery acid. I drill the heads off, remove the battery box, with vice grips, I remove the bolt rems, retap the holes for a 1/4-28 thread, and install new S.S. bolts) You can now reach the two rear coils. If you have the "Paws of a bear", you may need to remove the Air Box as well to be able to angle your arm in far enough to reach the rear coils. I would try to reach the coils first, before removing the Air Box. Unscrew the coil caps on the two rear coils, and let the plug wires hang. (Again, if this is your first time, remove ONE wire at a time, and install the new plug wire) For the front two coils, reach under the fairing below the headlight, and feel around until you find the front two coils. Remove the coil caps, one at a time and install the new plug wires. Plan on this project taking the better part of an afternoon. When you feel the BIG vein in the center of your forehead start to pop out, take a break!:crackup:I am NOT in any way saying that this project is an easy one, but I for one do not like to remove major plastic fairing parts from a 20 plus year old motorcycle unless I have no other choice. There is a gent on Ebay that sells a decent quality spark plug wire set in the $50.00 range, and I offer a set as well. You need 7MM stranded copper wire, and the NGK Resistor plug caps. Automotive type wires, or 8MM wires are NOT suggested. I have a small list of items I don't skimp on, brakes being one, quality gaskets being another. Because this project is such a pain, I don't "cheap out" on materials. As bad as this project is, you wouldn't want to do it a second time a month later because you saved a few bucks on a plug wire set from a Pinto! Please feel free to PM me if you have questions. Earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatman123 Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share #5 Posted January 8, 2012 Happy New Year to you to Earl, and thanks much for your advice which I intend to follow. I will post results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted January 8, 2012 Share #6 Posted January 8, 2012 Right in the middle of doing this now: O'Reillys has a set of Universal Plug Wires for $15. They are 7mm Copper Core Silicone sheathed. They are a steal and there is enough wire there to do at least two bikes. They are called Omnispark 9994 The caps are NGK 8641 and 8625 (Waterproof). Amazon had those at $3 and $5 That worked out at under $35 for the complete set and plenty of wire to spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatman123 Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted January 11, 2012 I followed Skydoc's advice, and removed the battery and battery box, the whole procedure took less than an hour and went better than I thought it would. Unfortunately it still runs poorly, acts like either a vacuum leak or low speed jets clogged. I thought I had both these issues addressed, but back to the drawing board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted January 11, 2012 Share #8 Posted January 11, 2012 I followed Skydoc's advice, and removed the battery and battery box, the whole procedure took less than an hour and went better than I thought it would. Unfortunately it still runs poorly, acts like either a vacuum leak or low speed jets clogged. I thought I had both these issues addressed, but back to the drawing board. There is a vacuum advance unit attached to the same frame as the coils, it is called a Boost Sensor. If it has failed it would give those symptoms. With a bit of dexterity and a multi-meter you can check the output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted January 11, 2012 Share #9 Posted January 11, 2012 A quick and easy way to check vacuum sensor that Usally will work is to have the bike idleing smoothly at a consistent RPM. Disconnect hose that is generally connected to the #2 intake manifold & plug the manifold port with a plug. Apply a vacuum to the hose that goes to the boost sensor, the old fashioned way of sucking on the hose is my choice, because it is quick and repeatable. You want to note if the RPM's change when suction is quickly applied to hose. If they do, then the sensor is likely functioning. What this is doing is signaling the TCI to change the ignition timing advance, which will change RPM at idle. This will be a subtle, but noticable change in RPM's. to get oil taste to go away !!! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted January 11, 2012 Share #10 Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) If it redlines itself Don't Suck So Hard!!!!:rotfl: Rainy day and nothing to do!! Stupid ^%#^&* Garage!!! Edited January 12, 2012 by Yammer Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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