wes0778 Posted December 18, 2011 Share #1 Posted December 18, 2011 Just inherited this. Found out it was made between 1899 and 1902. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted December 18, 2011 Share #2 Posted December 18, 2011 Looks like a model 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Haywood Posted December 18, 2011 Share #3 Posted December 18, 2011 No point in changing when you have it right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share #4 Posted December 18, 2011 Looks like a model 10 So I'm told, it is a pre model 10, it is a ".38 Military & Police 1st Model" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted December 18, 2011 Share #5 Posted December 18, 2011 Unless I'm mistaken its chambered for .38S&W which is a milder load than .38special Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share #6 Posted December 18, 2011 Unless I'm mistaken its chambered for .38S&W which is a milder load than .38special Barrel says "38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Owl Posted December 18, 2011 Share #7 Posted December 18, 2011 For $50.00 S&W can give you a letter of authenticity setting out the history of the weapon. When it was manufactured, how many were producted, who the weapon was first shipped to etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted December 18, 2011 Share #8 Posted December 18, 2011 I've got some .38S&W ammo for that. I have an old nickle Remington Smoot pistol in .38 rimfire, manuf. somewhere around 1880. A really neat looking piece. Whatever you do DO NOT re-blue it or anything else to alter the finish on it, it will diminish the value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share #9 Posted December 19, 2011 Whatever you do DO NOT re-blue it or anything else to alter the finish on it, it will diminish the value. Oh heck no, the only thing I'm gonna pursue is replacing the indexing "star" on the extractor. there is visible wear on it. If the trigger is pulled slowly, or the hammer is cocked slowly, the cylinder will not turn far enough to lock. Don't like lead "shavers"!!! There is no telling how many rounds this gun fired in it's life prior to the 1920s. That is when my grandfather acquired it. He died in 1931 and with the exception of the box of shell I shot through it in the late 1950s, It has never been fired since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kregerdoodle Posted December 19, 2011 Share #10 Posted December 19, 2011 very nice Walt!! ya gotta love the History that it has also!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted December 19, 2011 Share #11 Posted December 19, 2011 Could be just dirty, causing the malfunction. My smoot did the same thing till I gave it a good cleaning, either wouldn't advance or not advance far enough to lock the wheel. It's either dirty or the timing is off, let a trusted gunsmith have a look at it. Oh heck no, the only thing I'm gonna pursue is replacing the indexing "star" on the extractor. there is visible wear on it. If the trigger is pulled slowly, or the hammer is cocked slowly, the cylinder will not turn far enough to lock. Don't like lead "shavers"!!! There is no telling how many rounds this gun fired in it's life prior to the 1920s. That is when my grandfather acquired it. He died in 1931 and with the exception of the box of shell I shot through it in the late 1950s, It has never been fired since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted December 19, 2011 Share #12 Posted December 19, 2011 Barrel says "38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" My bad. I thought 38spl came later than that. My favorite target pistol is a S&W in 38spl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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