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leveling system and battery symbol on monitor


desertlvr

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I am thrilled! I had an 86 Venture Royal 12 years ago. This past weekend, after a very long wait I got an 89. Having some issues with it.

When I bought it last weekend the leveling system worked. Now, with it in accesory position I am getting an E4 code. I took the trunk off and have access to the system. I cleaned the rubber piece with the foam in it. Nothing, all I get is a click every 15 to 20 seconds. I sure hope the system didn't go, it looks really expensive to repair. Any ideas? Can I use the bike if this is not working?

Next issue; the battery symbol is lite on the monitor screen. The owner tells me the battery is new. The bike starts just fine. Any ideas?

Thank you so much to whoever helps. I am grateful and can't wait to get this beauty on the road.

 

Ed

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I am thrilled! I had an 86 Venture Royal 12 years ago. This past weekend, after a very long wait I got an 89. Having some issues with it.

When I bought it last weekend the leveling system worked. Now, with it in accesory position I am getting an E4 code. I took the trunk off and have access to the system. I cleaned the rubber piece with the foam in it. Nothing, all I get is a click every 15 to 20 seconds. I sure hope the system didn't go, it looks really expensive to repair. Any ideas? Can I use the bike if this is not working?

Next issue; the battery symbol is lite on the monitor screen. The owner tells me the battery is new. The bike starts just fine. Any ideas?

Thank you so much to whoever helps. I am grateful and can't wait to get this beauty on the road.

 

Ed

 

Do a search...

The new battery didn't have the hole to put the probe in so it reads failure...

You can wire in a resistor to cure this...

The e4 code means you will have to resolder part of the circuit board...

All very doable....

The real experts will chime in with more info...:)

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A 1k resistor to ground will turn out the light on the panel.

 

The E4 code is usually telling you that some of the solder joints on the circuit board have failed.

 

It's an easy repair if you are confident with a 15W soldering iron. If not, any local electronics tech should be able to do it in a few minutes if the thing is apart.

 

The job mainly comprises of briefly touching the iron to any joints that look suspect. Most will re-flow the solder and few if any should need more. Others may have experienced it slightly differently.

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Actually, you connect the 1K ohm resistor from the battery probe wire to a 12 Volt source. I connect it to the accessory screw on the fuse panel (it's the left hand screw at the front of the fuse box). You will probably find the battery probe wire laying loose in front of the battery (Off the top of my head, I'm not sure of the color code, but I 'believe' it's white or light yellow with a red stripe). BTW, you can get the resistor @ Radio Shack, either 1/2 watt or 1/4 watt.

 

The reason your battery alarm is on is that the original batteries had a hole for a probe. When the probe was in the battery electrolyte (the liquid) it created a battery and put voltage on the probe wire. A lot of new batteries don't have a place for the probe. The alarm was designed to come on when the fluid in the battery got low.

 

Frank D.

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Actually, you connect the 1K ohm resistor from the battery probe wire to a 12 Volt source. I connect it to the accessory screw on the fuse panel (it's the left hand screw at the front of the fuse box). You will probably find the battery probe wire laying loose in front of the battery (Off the top of my head, I'm not sure of the color code, but I 'believe' it's white or light yellow with a red stripe). BTW, you can get the resistor @ Radio Shack, either 1/2 watt or 1/4 watt.

 

The reason your battery alarm is on is that the original batteries had a hole for a probe. When the probe was in the battery electrolyte (the liquid) it created a battery and put voltage on the probe wire. A lot of new batteries don't have a place for the probe. The alarm was designed to come on when the fluid in the battery got low.

 

Frank D.

 

BUT PLEASE DONT ATTACH THE LEAD WITHOUT THE RESISTOR ON FIRST OR YOU WILL KILL YOUR COMPUTER MODULE IN YOUR DASH.:no-no-no:

 

Brian

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The need to resolder the connector pins on the CLASS is easy to prove, hold the aring harness to the left and turn the bike to ACC... then turn it off, hold the harness to the right and repeat. Different codes is the clear indication to resolder the pins.

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Actually, you connect the 1K ohm resistor (Off the top of my head, I'm not sure of the color code, but I 'believe' it's white or light yellow with a red stripe)..

 

SECOND COLUMN IS RHYM I LEARNED LONG AGO FOR COLOR CODE

 

0 BAD BLACK

1 BOYS BROWN

2 REAM RED

3 OUT ORANGE

4 YOUNG YELLOW

5 GIRLS GREEN

6 BUT BLUE

7 VOILET PURPLE

8 GIVES GRAY

9 WILLINGLY WHITE

:doh:

 

TOLERANCE

GOLD 5%

SILVER 10%

NONE 20%

 

1ST COLOR=1ST DIGIT BROWN=1

2ND COLOR=2ND DIGIT BLACK=0

3RD COLOR=MULTIPLIER RED=2 ZEROS ALL = 1000 =1K

4TH COLOR=TOLERANCE

Edited by bkuhr
correction
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SECOND COLUMN IS RHYM I LEARNED LONG AGO FOR COLOR CODE

 

0 BAD BLACK

1 BOYS BROWN

2 REAM RED

3 OUT ORANGE

4 YOUNG YELLOW

5 GIRLS GREEN

6 BUT BLUE

7 VOILET PURPLE

8 GIVES GRAY

9 WILLINGLY WHITE

:doh:

 

TOLERANCE

GOLD 1%

SILVER 10%

NONE 20%

 

1ST COLOR=1ST DIGIT BROWN=1

2ND COLOR=2ND DIGIT BLACK=0

3RD COLOR=MULTIPLIER RED=2 ZEROS ALL = 1000 =1K

4TH COLOR=TOLERANCE

 

Wow, that brought back memories from my US Air Force tech school even though the "R" and "O" were a little different.

RandyA

Edited by Venturous Randy
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I guess I didn't proof read my previous message well enough. I wasn't talking about the resistor color code---I've worked in electronics for 50 years so I know Violet quite well. The color code I was refering to was the battery probe wire color code. I figured the prevous owner left it laying near the battery and tried to give some info on where to find the wire itself. I will proof read better. I will proof read better. I will better proof read. I will....

 

Frank

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Thank you to all who helped me out with this. I feel better about the situation. I was fearful, that especially with the leveling system I was going to have to put out money I don't have, therefore the bike would have had to sit. Thanks so much. This forum and the responses boosted my confidence that I made the right decision with the Venture over the Goldwing!

Ed:cool10:

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I took off the trunk and was inspecting the leveling system (not really sure what I was looking for, loose connections I guess). I then took out the headlight and was ready to go after the circut board. It suddenly occured to me that it was when I opened up the leveling system unit (where you put water in the radiator) and closed it was after I closed it the levelihg system stopped working. Just for the heck of it, I again opened up that unit, turned the key to acc, no code, hit the button for manual, success!!!!! The loose wire is somewhere in there. Was prepared to do what I needed for the circuit board but am way happy that this problem was so much easier.

Again thanks to all who gave me advice and solutions. Hoping that this may be helpful for someone in the future.

 

 

Ed:cool10:

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Thank you to all who helped me out with this. I feel better about the situation. I was fearful, that especially with the leveling system I was going to have to put out money I don't have, therefore the bike would have had to sit. Thanks so much. This forum and the responses boosted my confidence that I made the right decision with the Venture over the Goldwing!

Ed:cool10:

 

There is another cheap fix for the leveling system.

 

Remove it.

 

Fit Progressive Springs on the front fork, and have the rear shock rebuilt with a Progressive Spring ..... Or go the whole hog and replace the shock.

 

You will never have to play with the CLASS again.

 

You have four levels of pre-load available on the rear. Two up and luggage I find position 3 works great with 43lbs (medium) of air pressure. But my rear shock is old, and it's done 56000 miles so I am betting that I would be unlikely to need the help from the compressor if I fixed the shock ... and I still have position 4 ... Must try that.

 

OTOH, fixing the CLASS is pretty easy if it's just soldering .....

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