tcoop Posted March 11, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 11, 2011 I finally got around to working on the Venture. Got it running last night and took it for a hour long ride up weber canyon and Trappers Loop - That’s the success part. The bad part is it really does not want to start. With the enrichment on it will pop out the carbs a few times then back fires out the left side enough that the end cap on that side is blown halfway down the street. Usually it takes about ten min of work (some throttle, starter fluid) to get it to start once it starts it runs good. I plan on pulling the carbs and giving them a good cleaning. As I am cleaning them is there anything that I need to be looking for? No need to pull them apart and put them back together with bad parts that I don't know about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted March 11, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 11, 2011 Do a Sea-Foam soak before you pull them. Unless you just want to pull them. Nothing is as good as tearing them down and cleaning everything but it is a major PIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 11, 2011 Share #3 Posted March 11, 2011 I finally got around to working on the Venture. Got it running last night and took it for a hour long ride up weber canyon and Trappers Loop - That’s the success part. The bad part is it really does not want to start. With the enrichment on it will pop out the carbs a few times then back fires out the left side enough that the end cap on that side is blown halfway down the street. Usually it takes about ten min of work (some throttle, starter fluid) to get it to start once it starts it runs good. I plan on pulling the carbs and giving them a good cleaning. As I am cleaning them is there anything that I need to be looking for? No need to pull them apart and put them back together with bad parts that I don't know about. If you are going to open them up, at a minimum, you should get a basic rebuild kit. You need 4, one for each carb. It includes the float bowl molded O-ring, a new fuel level needle valve and seat (which I didn't replace the seat, need other items to use), a jet block gasket, and several o-rings. (mixture screw, fuel bowl drain, jet block, diaphragm cover bottom, couple others). I think MiCarl might be offering these. Around $20 - $25 each. After you get in there, you may find main diaphragms are bad. Also replacing the very small (37.5) pilot jet in the jet block might be a good idea. If you tear them down, replacing the screws that hold them all together with socket head screws would be an improvement. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkuhr Posted March 11, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 11, 2011 before working on cabrs do a compression check. Low compression due to multiple reasons(valve adj, etc) can cause difficulity starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil Venturous Posted March 12, 2011 Share #5 Posted March 12, 2011 Sorta Rminds me of the problems I had with all the XR honda dirt bikes I had. Would never start easy, but once finally started and warmed up would run good. Finally realized the problem was lash adjustment on the exhaust valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 12, 2011 Share #6 Posted March 12, 2011 Do the Sea Foam Dance first before pulling the carbs. I picked up an '83 that had sat out in the rain unprotected for 2 years. Got it to cough with carb cleaner, and emediately shut it off. This was with the old fuel. Then filled the tank with 4 gallons of fresh fuel and the entire can of Sea Foam. Fired it up again and it ran like cr@p, but it did idle, so just let it run. The longer it idled the better it ran. Tossed in a set of plugs and sync'd the carbs, and d@mn that thing ran strong. I'da kept it, but with all the mods I'd done to the first '83, I didn't want to start over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utadventure Posted March 12, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 12, 2011 Doing a good carb sync will help as well. I'm just down the way in Taylorsville and my son (also has an 83) is at Weber State and could take the carb tool home with him this weekend. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share #8 Posted March 14, 2011 I have everything that I need to sync the carbs I'll be doing that in the next few days. It just does not want to start. If I bump start it it starts with on problem. The tachometer does not work for about a minute or two. Once the tack starts to work then I can shut the bike off and re-start with the starter. I was thinking that I might need to pull the starter and clean it up. Other that that I not sure what I need to look at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted March 14, 2011 Share #9 Posted March 14, 2011 OK the "tach" part is a clue!! I would remove your TCI, unscrew the cover, drain any moisture in the case and bake in the oven at 175 - 200 for an hour or so. Check the contacts for corrosion and clean them and use dielectric grease. There also is a connector below the seat that the coil pickup wires come from that also should be serviced for corrosion as well It should be along the top frame just about where the down pipe is. You see, the tach gets it's info from the #2 coil primary so if the tach isn't working right away, something is amiss with the spark signal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted March 14, 2011 Share #10 Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) If the bike has been sitting any length of time, Do compression check first... If you do not have enough compression, you probably won't have enough vacume, that is what makes your carbs work. I could always tell when my 2000 RM250 Suzuki was approaching 100 hrs on a set of rings, as it would get difficult to start. But run easily after it was at highter RPMs. If your compression checks out, your low speed jets are probably gummed up/clogged. If you have to take your carbs off, take your air box off, twist the throttle and see if all four carb slides return at the same rate. If they don't, take your carbs off, take the 1 1/2" black cap off and clean/replace diagram. Sometimes people overlook this when they do a carb rebuild. If they don't return at the same rate your rpms will hang instead of dropping off quickly as they should... remember to replace the oring under the needle seat... Edited March 14, 2011 by CaptainJoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share #11 Posted March 19, 2011 I have cleaned the cabs, they were not the bad. Nothing gummed up just a little rust build up. I took out he TCI, opened it up tried the drying and it still acts the same. I may need to look for an after market TCI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoop Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share #12 Posted April 6, 2011 Got the bike running well enough to get it registered with the DMV. Now it wont start again. I get backfiring through the carbs and the left side exhoust. I pulled the connections off the TCI (I have it sitting on the air box) and tested the coils and 3 of them read 4.0 to 4.2 ohms which I believe is too high the forth one was 2.9 ohms. Is this the posibly the couse of hard starting? Is ther a good replacement coil that I should look at or do I need to take my chances on old coils from EBay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted April 6, 2011 Share #13 Posted April 6, 2011 Got the bike running well enough to get it registered with the DMV. Now it wont start again. I get backfiring through the carbs and the left side exhoust. I pulled the connections off the TCI (I have it sitting on the air box) and tested the coils and 3 of them read 4.0 to 4.2 ohms which I believe is too high the forth one was 2.9 ohms. Is this the posibly the couse of hard starting? Is ther a good replacement coil that I should look at or do I need to take my chances on old coils from EBay? It might be interesting to see what intesity of a spark is being developed from each coil. I don't know if GooseV7 might have some insight to a low cost tester that would give a visual indication. Something along the line of the link below. http://www.dpciwholesale.com/High-Energy-Ignition-Spark-Tester.html I do not know if this tester is a good one to do this with or not, found it on a search. There may be better ones to do this with. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted April 6, 2011 Share #14 Posted April 6, 2011 Not sure of aftermarkets, but stock coils are on fleabay all the time. You should read around 2.5 to 3.0 ohms on the primary and somewhere in the 200 ohm rqnge on the secondary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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