Where best to install Load Equalizers

[Seaking]

I've swapped out my signal lights to some decently insanely bright LEDs and have a pair of Load Equalizers to take up the load to make the signal lights flash at the normal rate etc etc.. One for the front and one for the rear lights..

 

However, though I know which wires go where, I do not know the best location to tap into the wires for this..

 

Can someone who has done this before be able to point out to me where best to located the wires on the bike to tap into for the best (note easiest) access?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Cheers

[Bummer]

Don't you mean left and right not front and back? Left and right are separate circuits. Front and back are not.

 

I haven't done load equalizers, though I did try a load stabilizer. (Then took it off and put the Trick Flasher back on.) However, I tapped wires on a plug under the seat, by the battery, on the kickstand side. I'm thinking the wires are dark green and brown, but it's been a while. Old timers and all that... If you have to splice the equalizers inline you might want to look at the wires on the back fender under the passenger's seat.

 

So did the LEDs kill auto cancel?

[Sandbagger]

Just be careful.

I had LED's in my turn signals and it killed the turn canceling.

When I looked at data at why people got hit there is a significant percentage of motorcycles that get hit by going straight and have people turning in front of them with false turn signals. I was catching myself on every ride not realizing that my turn signal was on. In my opinion a turn signal is a bonus. I know I'm clear and I could keep myself safe even if I didn't have a turn signal. I don't force myself into traffic. It is just an additional safety measure. I believe the loss of auto turn canceling is far more dangerous than the benefit of the brighter turn signal. Just be careful if you decide to do the LED's and cant get the canceling to work.

[Seaking]

Don't you mean left and right not front and back? Left and right are separate circuits. Front and back are not.

 

I haven't done load equalizers, though I did try a load stabilizer. (Then took it off and put the Trick Flasher back on.) However, I tapped wires on a plug under the seat, by the battery, on the kickstand side. I'm thinking the wires are dark green and brown, but it's been a while. Old timers and all that... If you have to splice the equalizers inline you might want to look at the wires on the back fender under the passenger's seat.

 

So did the LEDs kill auto cancel?

 

No, these load equalizers make the LED look like they take a full load thus fooling your self canceling and signal light relay into thinking they are real incandescent lights..

 

In simple terms that works for me to understand this is that if you take one of your bulbs out of the sockets, that side of the bike will flash FAST.. it's a troubleshooting thing built in to tell you that one of your bulbs are out.. same thing in a car.. So when you put an LED light in there, it doesn't draw enough electrical power like a regular bulb does and the system thinks its a blown out bulb and flashes fast..

 

Installing Load Equalizers adds resistance to the circuit so that the system thinks there is a good bulb in the socket and will operate properly.. Different companies make different type of equalizers and diodes. Some go inline with each positive wire of the signal light, while others replace the relay completely.. The ones *I* have simply clip to ground, and then to each signal light wire, front or rear circuit. Because they take up the load they tend to get warm so you mount them accordingly. You could I guess mount them so they tap into the right and left side as it does the same thing.. but it's a heck of a lot easier just tapping into the leads of the wires near a junction point where the left and right REAR or front signal lights come together in the centre of the bike..

 

So now, I'm just looking to see where this spot might be on the bike to save me some hunting and yanking on wires.. if someone had done this one before then their info would save me some time.. the bike is at the shop for the week getting the front end re-done so I have to gather up parts and do some research =)

[Snaggletooth]

This is what superbrightleds shows for installation instructions. I'm planning on installing mine ('84 VR) next to the air compressor unit where I have a harness set up for my light bar light. On the front turn signals it can be installed right behind the bulb sockets.

 

http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/load_resistor_info.pdf

[Seaking]

This is what superbrightleds shows for installation instructions. I'm planning on installing mine ('84 VR) next to the air compressor unit where I have a harness set up for my light bar light. On the front turn signals it can be installed right behind the bulb sockets.

 

http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/load_resistor_info.pdf

 

Nice! The ones that I have essentially ONE device does a pair of LED signal lights.. not just one at a time.. perhaps that's why the confusion to my comment that they would do the front or rear..

[Snaggletooth]

What are you using for your LED bulbs?

 

Mike

[skydoc_17]

Hi Pete,

Jean Here, I saw your post, and asked Earl if he wanted to comment on the project you were doing, here is what he said.

First off, he said, these load resistors get SCALDING HOT!!! Like so hot they will melt plastic parts! They need to be mounted where air can get to them. AND not mounted on ANY plastic surface! The next thing he said was it takes 200 ohms of resistance when installing LED's to keep the self canceling units functioning and to keep the "bulb burned out" Icon from coming on. So if you have a 50 ohm load resistor, you will need ONE for every light bulb. He is not exactly sure how the Second Gen. is wired for the turn signals but for sure on the First Gens. he had to install a 50 ohm load resistor on each light bulb to make them function properly. Because of the addition of the load resistors, there is absolutely NO POWER savings by running LED lights, so if you didn't spend big bucks on some really bright LED's, then you are spinnin' your wheels thinking you are going to reduce your current draw by putting LED's on your bike. The reason is you negated the power savings of the LED's by having to add the load resistors to get the other items to function properly. Earl thinks it is money better spent to leave the stock bulbs in their location, and add EXTRA LED's to other places on your bike, and DO NOT add the load resistors at all because of the heat and melting problem. Earl did want me to tell you Pete that he wishes you the best of luck with this project.

Jean

[Seaking]

Thanks Jean! Please pass on to Earl our best wishes (if he can't type he must be in bad shape?)

 

Also relay: Yep, the LED signal lights don't do much to save on power on the system as he suggested.. but these are insanely bright compared to the stock bulbs.. no joke retina burns! =) that's why I installed them...

 

To answer other questions from Snaggletooth:

 

These are from Custom Dynamics (GREAT people to deal with!) They are indeed pricey but man they are well built. I'm willing to pay the price for quality instead of Shyte off a green boat.

 

1 Genesis Flat LED Turn Signal White BAZ Eclipze2 GEN200-W-BAZE2-T

1 Genesis Flat LED Turn Signal Amber 7507 GEN200-A-7507-T

2 Genesis Metric Load Equalizer 7.5 Ohm GEN-7.5-30

 

Earl made a good point about the load equalizers putting out the heat. The ones I have listed here have long leads so I'll be able to mount the modules out away from anything sensitive and kept cool..

 

Its all about being seen... The HID headlight is where I saved a lot of watts on the system.. the signal lights no..

 

Thanks again Jean, Hugs!!