Clutch ???

[TearlessTom]

I've recently purchased a 07 RSTD with just a bit over 40,000 miles. I've read about some having to replace the CLUTCH BASKET and it being under warranty.

 

I've recently changed the oil just to know it had been changed and what was in it.

I replaced the oil with Full Synthetic Mobil 10-40 High Mileage formula (non energy conserving)

I had noticed the slipping feeling before the oil change but do not know what oil was in it)

 

The reason I ask is I have experienced what feels like a clutch slipping under hard acceleration. I am not sure if this is a idiosyncrasy of this bike or if it is actually slipping and/or will need replacing in the future.

 

My wife's HD Fatboy has the same feeling too when I run it hard and it only has 8,000. miles on it. I had always attributed the feeling to its belt drive stretching. At 8000 miles I doubt it is slipping, and it runs out really well but he HP and Torque #'s are no where near the TD's or Valkyrie's. (all work on it has been done by a dealer.)

 

Since the TD is a shaft drive I would expect it to feel like my Valkyrie which once engaged in a gear it stays no slipping under hard acceleration at all. Just lots of torque.

Both the TD and the Valkyrie have hydraulic clutches, the TD is a much lighter feel than the Valkyrie so is it safe to assume the clutch springs on the Valk are heaver to deal with the extra torque?

 

2ND ??? What are the symptoms of the CLUTCH BASKET needing to be replaced and HOW CAN I TELL IF IT HAS BEEN DONE OR WHCH BASKET IS IN MY BIKE?

 

Thanks for all the help,

 

Tom

Edited December 4, 2010 by TearlessTom

[Freebird]

I am a little surprised that you report it is non-energy conserving. I thought that all of Mobil 1 10W/40 oils were energy conserving. I would first confirm that it is indeed NOT.

 

That being said, it is not entirely unusual for these bikes to develop a clutch slippage at 40,000 miles. The clutch springs are a bit weak on them. Many people here replaced the clutch springs with a heavier spring to solve that problem. PCW racing sells an upgrade kit for it and we also have a member here...SkyDoc...that sells the upgrade kit. You can see his ad in the Classifieds under "Member Vendors".

 

For what it's worth, I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T in my '99. It is a motorcycle specific oil but is a bit expensive. I've used it since 1999 though and have no plans to switch to anything else.

 

EDIT: I just looked up that high mileage 10W/40 on the Mobil website and you are indeed correct that it is non-energy conserving. Sorry to have questioned you on that. That being said, there is no telling what the previous owner may have used in it. The heavier clutch spring should solve your problems. You may not need the friction plates but really won't know until you pull them out and look.

Edited December 4, 2010 by Freebird

[TearlessTom]

I am a little surprised that you report it is non-energy conserving. I thought that all of Mobil 1 10W/40 oils were energy conserving. I would first confirm that it is indeed NOT.QUOTE]

 

I checked the label when purchased, rechecked and rechecked. I just rechecked before I submitted the question . It does not say energy conserving on the circular label or anywhere on the bottle. I have been using the same oil in my Valkyrie for several thousand miles w/o any problems and it runs great and get great mileage (for a Valk) It is due for an oil change with 5000+ on the oil and it looks almost new.

 

I'm kinda leaning towards the springs as I have done some more reading.

 

Can anyone enlighten me about the clutch basket as I have always shyed away from working on clutches.

[Freebird]

Yes, I edited my original post and agreed that it is non-energy conserving.

 

Here is a pretty decent article on upgrading the clutch.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518

[tsigwing]

I replaced the clutch spring on mine with a PCW racing spring. Pretty simple to do and will eliminate any slipping issues.

[TearlessTom]

I will probable one day replace the springs as suggested.

 

When I do How do I tell if it is the H or I basket, and which part is the actually part that it refers to?

 

I read the instructions that were attached above but still don't understand where to find the markings or even exactly which part is considered the culprit.

 

I did see that the dealer wanted $330. to do the job though. That's a bit too pricey if you ask me.

 

Thanks as always,

 

Tom

[skydoc_17]

Hey Tom,

Welcome to the VR.ORG site! Here is some general background information about your 07'RSTD clutch system so you can decide what parts need to be replaced. Unlike the earlier MKI Ventures, which use a "pac" of 6 compression springs, your RSTD (as well as EVERY other Second Gen. RSV and RSTD) uses a SINGLE Clutch Diaphragm Spring to activate the clutch. (see attached pic) Because of exposure to extreme heat and constant use, the "temper" (spring action) of the Clutch Diaphragm Spring starts to decrease (spring failure) LONG before the Clutch Friction Discs and the Steel Clutch Plates do. This is why it is very important to replace the Clutch Diaphragm Spring before the rest of the "perishable" clutch parts are damaged, and need to be replaced as well. PCW sells a Clutch Spring Kit, and I sell one myself. Here is a link to the Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit I offer in the Classifieds:

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2905&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring26amp-3b-full-disc-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22

Weather you choose to use the PCW kit or the Kit I offer is not as important as replacing the defective Clutch Diaphragm Spring BEFORE it takes out the other clutch components! What would be an $80.00 repair will very shortly turn into a $300.00 repair with the replacement of the Clutch Friction Discs and the possible replacement of the Steel Clutch Plates as well as the Clutch Diaphragm Spring.

The other issue I wanted to address is the replacement of the Clutch Basket in your RSTD. (see attached pic) In my opinion, there are only three reasons to replace the Clutch Basket in your bike, #1 would be if you can get the dealer to replace the basket under warranty! Any new, free part is a good part! The #2 reason would be if the bushing in the center of the clutch basket is excessively worn, and the Clutch Basket is "wobbling" on the Clutch Shaft. Usually this condition manifests itself as a rotational "knocking" or "clunking" sound down by the clutch cover, water pump area on the right side of the bike, usually at idle. The #3 reason would be if you have the dreaded "Clutch Basket Whine" that a lot of Second Gen. owners complain about. An example of this condition would be a "Hum", or "Whine" in the transmission when holding a constant speed. This noise is so pronounced that many owners have stated that they can not hear the radio, or the noise "drives them crazy", and takes the fun out of riding their Second Gen. bikes. So in conclusion, If the dealer is not going to replace the Clutch Basket for free, you don't hear the knocking of a wobbly clutch basket on the right side of the bike at Idle, and you can still hear your radio at highway speeds while cruising, then it is pretty safe to say that a replacement of the failing Clutch Diaphragm Spring with a new, heavy duty spring will pretty much take care of ALL of your Clutch related problems. If the Clutch Basket "ain't broke", then there isn't any reason to replace it, unless of course, they are "givin' them away" for free at your local Yamaha dealer. If you have questions about the Clutch Spring Kit or the install, please feel free to PM me.

Earl

[davecb]

It's still under warranty. Your dealer can tell you if the basket has been replaced. If you have a chirping sound, especially aroung 50-55 MPH, then you may need it replaced. However, I have never heard of a Tour Deluxe needing it....

[RandyR]

It's still under warranty. Your dealer can tell you if the basket has been replaced. If you have a chirping sound, especially aroung 50-55 MPH, then you may need it replaced. However, I have never heard of a Tour Deluxe needing it....

 

RSTD's have the same issues as RSV's. There have been a couple that have gotten the I basket. My 08 RSTD has the whine, but I've ridden enough other bikes that are just as noisy that I ignore it. Taking the windshield off the RSTD lowers the level of the whine to unnoticeable levels. I think the windshield acts as a reflector to concentrate the noise where the rider is.

[TearlessTom]

Hey SkyDoc, just wanted to add here that I put on the parts in your kit following your instructions.

 

No more slipping!!!!!!

 

Thanks, probably saved me a few hundred $$$

 

Wasn't a hard job at all, hardest part was breaking that wire and making sure I had everything lined up to the correct punch marks.

 

Thanks again. Anyone else who is thinking of doing this I highly recommend this kit.

 

Tom

Edited January 3, 2011 by TearlessTom

[Hocky]

Hi, You seem to have lots of experience with the Yamaha Whine so here's my question. Story 1st of course.

Just purchased a 2006 RSTD & have an annoying whine, seems to be similar to the clutch posts I've read. 1 month of warranty exists so I went to a local dealer & transfered the warranty to me. Also inquired about the clutch (I-Basket) situation. Long story short, Yamaha Tech Support acknowledges the issue & will do all I-Basket replacement free. Service man emphasized it would be warranted (1) time so if I'm still not satisfied = tough, & live with it because the whine will just be noticed at another RPM. Service man suggested not to change what the factory installed & accept the whine. Free is free but with a negative attitude on the part of the service man, well I'm wondering. Tried another RSTD & whine is the same. I'm also told the whine will not effect performance. So, choices are, 1. louder mufflers (already ordered) & wait to see if the sound overcomes the whine. Or 2. Plan B, have the free service done (seems like playing craps) no guarantee problem would be resolved? Thanks in advance,

Ron (Florida)

[TearlessTom]

Plan B, have the free service done (seems like playing craps) no guarantee problem would be resolved?

 

If the whine were bothering me I would go with plan B. True there is no guarantee that it will fix it but then again there is no guarantee that it won't either.

 

Since I have now changed out my clutch springs with Skydoc's kit I see that it is a very easy job so I wouldn't shy away from replacing the basket myself except for the cost of the part.

 

That being said if it is worse after the repair it you can ask for your old parts to keep and simply put it back in.

 

I would shoot Skydoc a PM some of these guys really know what they are talking about. Me I am still learning the bike too.

[TearlessTom]

Ron , where it Fl are you? I am in Spanish Fort AL just across the AL/FL line west of Pensacola,east of Mobile.

 

Tom

[SilvrT]

That being said if it is worse after the repair it you can ask for your old parts to keep and simply put it back in.

 

First of all, get the "I" basket put in and ask to see the "I" stamp on the basket BEFORE they install it. I say that because my dealer put the wrong one in.

 

Secondly, have them hold onto your original basket and make a deal with them to put it back in if the "I" basket swap doesn't work. They will do it for a nominal fee.

[Hocky]

Ron , where it Fl are you? I am in Spanish Fort AL just across the AL/FL line west of Pensacola,east of Mobile.

 

Tom

Hi Tom,

Lake Placid, Florida just South of Sebring. Moved here 4 years ago after 16 years in South Florida. This is retirees heaven. And great riding too. Bought the bike in Daytona. Bet you heard of that place.

Thanks for the reply.