trialer the scoot

[Kregerdoodle]

what is the best way to tie down a scoot to a trailer?? I have the soft ties that go over the hand grips and several over ties on it..I do not have a tire chauk.....

[Kregerdoodle]

hhhmmmm I know, I should have asked this question on a Hardly site.., as Our Ventures never need to be trailered...

[Freebird]

Take a look at this thread. I posted some pictures of mine when I moved to Ohio.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7732&highlight=Trailering

[BradT]

Take a look at this thread. I posted some pictures of mine when I moved to Ohio.

 

Thought you said, that was not yours

 

WHen I had too or wanted to trailor it, I personally never liked putting the straps on the handle bars, so I went lower (see pics). So far so good. Actually I use four straps for added protection, scared to death of it falling off.

 

Brad

[Squeeze]

Brad,

 

that's the best Way to tie the Bike down, first the front End, then the rear.

 

Only Thing i do not like, are the S-stytled End on the Ties.

 

I do not like them, and they are not the safest. Not only they can easily break or bend to open. If there is a fast Movement, they can just unhook themselves. Better would be anything which is a self securing System, Hook or Clamp does not matter.

[Condor]

I've trailered a couple of VR's in the past and have never been real comfortable securing the bikes by tieing to the sprung part of the bike. Even though the straps are tight when the trailer isn't moving, as soon as the trailer does start to move the bike starts to work up and down, and those tight straps start to loosen and put a lot of stress on the attachment parts. I also get a lot of chafe on the webbing. I've thought about putting the bike on the center stand to stop the up/down movement, and I know a lot of folks keep their bike on it's side stand to reduce movement. I've also seen a gizmo on American Thunder that allows the bike frame to be attached directly to the trailer bed, making it unsprung and no straps are used at all. I haven't come up with the answer yet....but I'm thinking about it......

[flb_78]

I've trailered a couple of VR's in the past and have never been real comfortable securing the bikes by tieing to the sprung part of the bike. Even though the straps are tight when the trailer isn't moving, as soon as the trailer does start to move the bike starts to work up and down, and those tight straps start to loosen and put a lot of stress on the attachment parts. I also get a lot of chafe on the webbing. I've thought about putting the bike on the center stand to stop the up/down movement, and I know a lot of folks keep their bike on it's side stand to reduce movement. I've also seen a gizmo on American Thunder that allows the bike frame to be attached directly to the trailer bed, making it unsprung and no straps are used at all. I haven't come up with the answer yet....but I'm thinking about it......

 

put a couple of 2x4's under the frame till its lifts the wieght off the suspension. then you can really cranks it down.

[Condor]

put a couple of 2x4's under the frame till its lifts the wieght off the suspension. then you can really cranks it down.

 

Good idea, but I'd still need to mount hockey pucks, like on a lift, to clear the exhaust and support the frame....?? It's got me to thinkin'. Maybe a hydraulic lift without the caster wheels might be the trick??

[Jerry W]

I asked a Harley rider how he trailers his bike. He does use a wheel chock to hold the bike upright, then uses soft ties on the fender brace where the front fender bolts to the forks. For insurance, use additional ties on the front and a couple of ties to keep the back end in place. If using the "S" hooks, be sure and cover them with tape to prevent accidental unhooking.

[BradT]

Only Thing i do not like, are the S-stytled End on the Ties.

 

I do not like them, and they are not the safest. Not only they can easily break or bend to open. If there is a fast Movement, they can just unhook themselves. .

 

I am not too found of those neither however these ones sure seem pretty darn hard to Bend. I vertually have no movement with the bike, when it is secured.

 

I also throw one more strap over the frame just in front of the tank just in case, one of my side ones break, or get un-hooked. I know everyone laughs at it, but I am not taking any chances. I have no sides on my trailor so I do not want to see it sliding down the highway.

 

Brad

[Stoutman]

I bought one of these wheel chocks today for my trailer.

 

Here is a link to the product description. I use the tie downs on the handlebars and compress the springs about half way, then use the rear crash bars to secure the rear end. Putting some duct tape around the s-hooks is a good idea. Glad I read this thread.

 

I have yet to open the box on the wheel chock, but the store display confirmed it was what I was looking for. I'm afraid that trailering the bike is the only way I'm going to get my sweetie more than 6 hours from home. Maybe now I'll be able to take some of those great bike roads around the country with my sweetie on the back.

 

The other thing I did was put a Monroe shock kit on the trailer. It should help keep things from bouncing so much, and reduce trailer sway. Still need to do a test run, but the to-do list has me painting the house this fall before the weather gets to bad.

[rymaggs]

I have moved my bikes over 5 thousand miles with work assignments and have always used nylon slings on the front as an anchor point. These are shown at the following link

 

http://www.tie-down-straps.com/

 

What I do on the front is loop these on to the handle bars as close to the riser as possible, than I use the tie down ratchest to secure the bike, one on each side. I compress the suspense about 75% of its travel. (it helps to have someone else to hold the bike up) This has never come apart of losened off after all those miles. This also moves the S ring or hook away from the bike and elliminates the possiblity of a scratch / ding.

 

On the back I use one longer tie down strap put over the rear fender as close to the seat area as possible. Again I tighten this just enough that I can't move the bike at all (about 50% of the rear shock travel)