Did I just read not to use

[Cruser]

The full synthetic oil? I just changed the oil I could not find any of the recommended around here so I went with the synthetic 10-40 Mobil 1 4 cycle motor oil, did I screw up?

[ctraylor]

If it is not made for motorcycles it will make your clutch slip. These bikes have a wet clutch. Get it out as quick as possible and don't ask how I know this.

[Cruser]

The oil is designed especially for motorcycles , I was just reading another thread where the OP was told not to use synthetic oils that they would make the seals start leaking, I don't want that .

[hig4s]

The oil is designed especially for motorcycles , I was just reading another thread where the OP was told not to use synthetic oils that they would make the seals start leaking, I don't want that .

 

 

Synthetic oil will not make seals leak.. What does happen sometimes is that when changing oil brands or types, not even necessarily from dino to synth, the different detergent blends will cause any gunk or build up in the engine to come loose. This gunk can build up where seals are weak or going bad and keep them from leaking. When it is cleaned out it may reveal leaks that were on the edge of leaking anyway.

 

Also, just because an oil in not designed specifically for motor cycles does not mean it will make your clutch slip. Check the API circle on the back of the container, if it does not say "energy conserving" then there is nothing in it that should cause a clutch to slip. Even if it does say that, it doesn't mean it will cause problems, just that it is more likely to cause problems.

[buddy]

50/50 chance on the seal or gasket leaking. Syn.oil cleans your motor out so if you have any crude build up in the system the syn.oil will remove it and in turn might cause oil seeping around a seal or gasket area?

some had no problems yet others have so you have a 50/50 chance.

As for the oil you installed it will "not" hurt your clutch....Look at the seal on the back side of the oil bottles if it states "energy conserving oil" stay away from it.

[buddy]

If it is not made for motorcycles it will make your clutch slip. These bikes have a wet clutch. Get it out as quick as possible and don't ask how I know this.

 

Curtis if you dint want us to ask why bring it up:stickpoke:

You going to be able to make the Hub Rally end of July29-30-31? or will classes be going again?

Edited June 21, 2010 by buddy

[MasterGuns]

The oil is designed especially for motorcycles , I was just reading another thread where the OP was told not to use synthetic oils that they would make the seals start leaking, I don't want that .

 

 

Adding synthetic in an older motor is a bunch of bunk. I've added fully synthetic in an 83, 86 and 88 in the last couple years. All three motors I doubt ever had synthetic. No leaks at all. Now then the 86 I now have I purchased with an oil leak, installed a new gear indicator switch and at the same time switched it over to Amsoil fully synthetic. No leaks. IMHO, if a motor is going to leak oil, it will leak regardless of the oil used.

[Karl C.]

most syns have better or more cleaners in it that dino... it is a fact that IF your engine has bad gaskets that are hid by sludge and that sludge is removed yes they will leak...if perhaps your motor is clean and your gaskets are in good order then geee it wont leak...

The syn vs dino oil can go on and on and on..... yes some oils will cause clutch to slip and some wont... read some forums and see what others have to say also..

Honda is one company that mobile made for a car will make the clutch slip on a v65 sabre. But not on all hondas.

 

As far as amsoil.. it is not like regular oils or other syns.. it is in a class of its own...some would like to compare it to royal purple but IMHO amsoil is still a notch better...

the only thing that pisses me off is that amsoil only sells by distributors...those distributors in my area suck...

[eazyduzzit]

From the posts I've read on this site, synthetic oils have on occasion made the notorious whine even worse. I have read of more than one instance where the owner went back to regular oil after trying synthetic because of the whine.

[Karl C.]

One problem that I have had with syn oil is this: I bought a new f150 supercrew in 2008. I waited till the 3rd oil change (9000 Miles) and then switched to amsoil...

well most of todays engines do not loosen up till around 20K miles... so my engine at 30K miles still wasnt actually broken in.. My gas mileage got worse and got to talking to dealer about it. So I changed oil, flushed engine and went back to dyno oil ran it for 3 more oil changes and now walla... i am back to 21 mpg on the hwy... not bad for a fullsize ford truck with gas engine...

 

The year befoer that I had a chevy silverado, went to 20K before switching to syn and I got real good performance out of it and also very good mileage. However I only had the 4.3 liter in it and was getting 25 on the hwy after 20K miles... before that I was only getting 19 mpg..

 

This is also why amsoil makes a breakin oil..

[hig4s]

 

As far as amsoil.. it is not like regular oils or other syns.. it is in a class of its own...some would like to compare it to royal purple but IMHO amsoil is still a notch better...

the only thing that pisses me off is that amsoil only sells by distributors...those distributors in my area suck...

 

In gear oil tests, Amsoil, Mobil1 and Castrol Syntec were the top rated oils. Royal purple and Redline synthetics rated lower than Mopar synthetic and a couple of top brands of non-synthetic. Some people swear by them, but no Royal Purple or Redline will ever go in any vehicle I own.

[dynodon]

All oils today have detergents in them, unless you seek out the rare oils for much older engines or special applications that don't call for them. But any regular oil, or synthetic will have detergents.

 

The leak thing came from when Synthetics were brand new on the market in WWII or thereabouts, and they were some of the first oils with detergents. the old leather and real rubber seals of the day leaked a lot, but if the engine was really crudded up with gunk from the lousy regular oils, it helped a little. Use ANY oil...synthetic or regular with detergents and you had lots of leaks. so that is the back story.

 

About breaking in? Another old "mechanics" tale. If it was true that engines would not break in with synthetic, then your Porsche, Corvette, BMW etc etc would be having lots of problems.

 

About the truck getting better mileage with regular oil? Well, MPG numbers can be all over the place. Many reasons for mileage to go up and down, but there is no way MPG with the right Amsoil for the engine went down enough to measure, chances are it did go up, but you had some other thing working....different path, different roads, different gas, something. Amsoil or a quality synthetic will get better MPG than regular oils every time, but it is very hard to measure. Sometimes you get what you expect. by 1k your engine is "broken in" really, and switching to synthetic was not the reason for any MPG drop, especially after 20,000 more miles! Something else was going on, and since you were told that it had to do with the synthetic, you expected a result from your effort to flush and use regular oil. So you drove (without even being aware of it) to get the result. That is why gas line magnets, and tiny fans in the intake "work". People spend money on them and WANT them to work. But I do wonder just in case, did you use the exact same weight of oil in the one truck for both synthetic and regular? Some people think they can run 50 weight synthetic where they would use 30 regular oil. That is wrong thinking.

 

Just something to think about.

[Cruser]

I didn't mean to open a can of worms, I was just wondering if my choice of oil was good or bad .

 

As I gather from the thread its kind of a hot button issue and about evenly split.

 

I will run the synthetic for a few hundred miles and see what comes of it.

 

in the mean time I will see if I can find some of the recommended oil for the Venture.

[Guest gerrycormier]

I changed to Mobil 1 - 15W50 full synthetic as soon as I bought the bike. It has no additives, my clutch works great and does not slip, ever!

I also have a small engine shop and use synthetics in a lot of other "small" engines.

1986 Venture.

Gerry

[Cruser]

I changed to Mobil 1 - 15W50 full synthetic as soon as I bought the bike. It has no additives, my clutch works great and does not slip, ever!

I also have a small engine shop and use synthetics in a lot of other "small" engines.

1986 Venture.

Gerry

 

This is good to know, Thanks for the post.

[Kirby]

I changed to Mobil 1 - 15W50 full synthetic as soon as I bought the bike. It has no additives, my clutch works great and does not slip, ever!

I also have a small engine shop and use synthetics in a lot of other "small" engines.

1986 Venture.

Gerry

 

 

Ditto!!!!

[MasterGuns]

I recently purchased a new car and I have to assume the engine was/is new also. It came from the factory with full synthetic. Owners manual says no break in required. I AM CONFUSED.

[tpalshadow]

I recently purchased a new car and I have to assume the engine was/is new also. It came from the factory with full synthetic. Owners manual says no break in required. I AM CONFUSED.

 

Mine too, just bought it today. Runs 0 weight full syn. Manual says only use full syn. Manual mentions nothing about break-in. Of course it isn't an American brand so it is probably better )

Edited June 22, 2010 by tpalshadow
added some info

[Karl C.]

I recently purchased a new car and I have to assume the engine was/is new also. It came from the factory with full synthetic. Owners manual says no break in required. I AM CONFUSED.

 

 

Dont be confused, some cars are actually like that. The problem is that all cars arent like that. Cadillacs for instance come with full syn.. Or well I I should say the northstar system engines come with full syn.

[autopilot]

Regarding the break in issue. In days gone by (and to some degree even now, particularly in an aftermarket rebuilding situation) the materials used in the piston rings would not seal properly/quickly as they should when a synthetic was used. (particularly true of chrome rings; not chrome/moly, but chrome) (That IS a quantifiable engineering FACT of physics...not an opinion). To isolate and investigate a specific set of factors (time at operating temp., duration of warm up, chemical make up of the specific oil used, metalurgical data for the specific engine block & pistons & rings[ for coefficients of expansion & contraction], data on adhesion of the lubricant to the specific metal being discussed, rpm during the "break-in" period and a dozen other factors, for a specific engine in a specific make & model would be possible, but pointless, especially for this "discussion"! What is germaine is that there will be certain engines that for any number of reasons as mentioned, will not seat the rings properly with a synthetic until much later than is desirable. Therefore the recommendation to get good "break-in" time on the engine with dino oil to seat the rings and establish proper clearance between rings and cylinder wall makes perfect sense, then switching back to synthetic for it's friction reducing properties. (that's also why they crosshatch the cylinder walls....but hey what do I know)

(for what it's worth the expensive cars with the specialty high performance all aluminum engines, like Corvette, Porsche & others...engines are run in prior to leaving the factory and the materials used are selected partly for the very purpose of seating/sealing quickly, while having a measure of longevity as well...can be somewhat exotic in the alloys used)

 

Using a synthetic that at a minimum is certified to be applicable to motorcyles with wet clutches is in my view, the only position to take if a person has any doubts, assuming of course that they're talking about motorcycles.

And will someone hose down the floor..I almost slipped on the testosterone when I came in.

[Karl C.]

Regarding the break in issue. In days gone by (and to some degree even now, particularly in an aftermarket rebuilding situation) the materials used in the piston rings would not seal properly/quickly as they should when a synthetic was used. (particularly true of chrome rings; not chrome/moly, but chrome) (That IS a quantifiable engineering FACT of physics...not an opinion). To isolate and investigate a specific set of factors (time at operating temp., duration of warm up, chemical make up of the specific oil used, metalurgical data for the specific engine block & pistons & rings[ for coefficients of expansion & contraction], data on adhesion of the lubricant to the specific metal being discussed, rpm during the "break-in" period and a dozen other factors, for a specific engine in a specific make & model would be possible, but pointless, especially for this "discussion"! What is germaine is that there will be certain engines that for any number of reasons as mentioned, will not seat the rings properly with a synthetic until much later than is desirable. Therefore the recommendation to get good "break-in" time on the engine with dino oil to seat the rings and establish proper clearance between rings and cylinder wall makes perfect sense, then switching back to synthetic for it's friction reducing properties. (that's also why they crosshatch the cylinder walls....but hey what do I know)

 

(for what it's worth the expensive cars with the specialty high performance all aluminum engines, like Corvette, Porsche & others...engines are run in prior to leaving the factory and the materials used are selected partly for the very purpose of seating/sealing quickly, while having a measure of longevity as well...can be somewhat exotic in the alloys used)

 

Using a synthetic that at a minimum is certified to be applicable to motorcyles with wet clutches is in my view, the only position to take if a person has any doubts, assuming of course that they're talking about motorcycles.

And will someone hose down the floor..I almost slipped on the testosterone when I came in.

 

Very well put.

[dave_wells]

3 years here oil threads are the best !!!!

 

If you want an opinion you will get one

 

The first time I have seen one turn into a Pissing Match

 

You guys should agree to disagree

 

My opinion in my 06 rstd

I use the Yamalube Semi since 5,000 miles

Now at 41,000 Bike runs fine

 

Ride Safe

Dave

[Freebird]

I have deleted some of the posts in this thread. It is OK if we all don't agree on everything but there is no need for the snide remarks, name calling, etc.

[tpalshadow]

I have deleted some of the posts in this thread. It is OK if we all don't agree on everything but there is no need for the snide remarks, name calling, etc.

 

Thanks, let's not turn people away from the site. Also, thanks for being a moderator who will come out and say what is being done and why!

[hig4s]

There was a comment about mixing synth and dino causing foaming.. Actually you can get foaming by mixing different oils even if both are dino or both are synth. The foaming issue is because of the anti-foaming additives in oil, that are produced by either acid or alkaline based technology. When two oils are mixed and one uses acid based tech, and the other uses alkaline base tech, it actually causes foaming.