Voltmeter reading

[slick97spirit]

Since installing my gauges, I'm wondering if the readings are ok.

 

While running the passing lamps my volt meter reads about 12.3-12.5 Is that enough output to keep things charged up?

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Since installing my gauges, I'm wondering if the readings are ok.

 

While running the passing lamps my volt meter reads about 12.3-12.5 Is that enough output to keep things charged up?

 

 

Double check that reading with a DMM, then if its correct, check again with the passing lights off. Then check with the RPMS at around 3000 or so...

 

If it IS correct according to the DMM then it may be JUST enough. I wouldn't add any more loads.

 

[slick97spirit]

Would a higher output stator be next step if that number is correct?

[Yammer Dan]

If I ever replace my stator it will be the high output one but not sure what output needs to be to keep things up. I'm Sure there are some electrical guys on here with plenty of info on this.

[slick97spirit]

my battery has always held a charge on long rides & while parked at home I keep it on a trickle charger. I just want to make sure that 12.3 is enough that it wont ruin the battery. If I have to, I'll go with the high output stator too. From what I've read here, it doesn't seem like a big deal.

[LilBeaver]

Since installing my gauges, I'm wondering if the readings are ok.

 

While running the passing lamps my volt meter reads about 12.3-12.5 Is that enough output to keep things charged up?

 

Double check that reading with a DMM, then if its correct, check again with the passing lights off. Then check with the RPMS at around 3000 or so...

 

If it IS correct according to the DMM then it may be JUST enough. I wouldn't add any more loads.

 

 

First of all - I would do as Brian suggests and verify the reading you are getting on your voltmeter.

 

But, in order to answer your question we need more information here. the 12.3-12.5Volts you are reading - is this at idle? cruising speed? are you maxed out at the rev limiter?

 

The electrical generator (stator) turns different speeds as a function of how fast the engine is turning. So, at idle, you produce less power than you do at a cruising speed (say with the engine revved around 2500 or 3000 rpm).

 

The voltage reading itself that you have indicated here (with no supporting information) does not give anyone enough information to give you a valid answer one way or the other. We could all speculate, but without more information we cannot provide you with any more insight here.

 

Some other information that can be helpful here:

What is the power draw of your passing lamps? (are they 35W bulbs, or the 55W)? Do you have any other electrical accessories running (heated clothing, extra lights, etc.)

 

If you are running 35W passing lamps, a regular headlight and nothing else and your bike is reading the 12.3-12.5V at idle (and something in the 13s at ~ 3000 rpm), then your system is fine - just don't sit idling with them on for too long or take a lot of short trips with them on and not putting your bike back on the trickle charger.

 

Throw us a bone here so we can help you

[slick97spirit]

First of all - I would do as Brian suggests and verify the reading you are getting on your voltmeter.

 

But, in order to answer your question we need more information here. the 12.3-12.5Volts you are reading - is this at idle? cruising speed? are you maxed out at the rev limiter?

 

The electrical generator (stator) turns different speeds as a function of how fast the engine is turning. So, at idle, you produce less power than you do at a cruising speed (say with the engine revved around 2500 or 3000 rpm).

 

The voltage reading itself that you have indicated here (with no supporting information) does not give anyone enough information to give you a valid answer one way or the other. We could all speculate, but without more information we cannot provide you with any more insight here.

 

Some other information that can be helpful here:

What is the power draw of your passing lamps? (are they 35W bulbs, or the 55W)? Do you have any other electrical accessories running (heated clothing, extra lights, etc.)

 

If you are running 35W passing lamps, a regular headlight and nothing else and your bike is reading the 12.3-12.5V at idle (and something in the 13s at ~ 3000 rpm), then your system is fine - just don't sit idling with them on for too long or take a lot of short trips with them on and not putting your bike back on the trickle charger.

 

Throw us a bone here so we can help you

 

 

Highway speed readings are hardly higher than they are at idle. It seems to vary between 12.3 to a max of 12.5 at highway speeds of 70-75.

 

If I turn the passing lights off, the meter jumps up to 13-13.2 give or take a point or two.

I bought the bike with the lamps on it so I'm not sure what wattage they are. If I were to guess, I would say they are 55w. They seem pretty bright.

 

I don't use anything else electrical, other than a GPS, so that's not a factor.

 

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

[Squeeze]

Cross check your Gauge with a DMM and if the Results still stands, take a deep Look into the respectice Connections of Stator, Rectifier, Battery and Ground Connections. 12.3 to 12.5 Volts at highway Speed are not enough to keep everything healthy in the long Shot. There's at least 1 Volt missing to normal Operation.

[MiCarl]

Cross check your Gauge with a DMM and if the Results still stands, take a deep Look into the respectice Connections of Stator, Rectifier, Battery and Ground Connections. 12.3 to 12.5 Volts at highway Speed are not enough to keep everything healthy in the long Shot. There's at least 1 Volt missing to normal Operation.

Those kind of voltages will take forever to replenish the battery for what you used starting it.

 

Another thing to look at is where the gauge is connected, there may be some losses. You really need to know what the voltage is at the battery, and it should be in the neighborhood of 14V when you're rolling.

[slick97spirit]

thanks guys, I think I'll rewire it closer to the battery after I check it with the DMM.

[jlh3rd]

are these readings before or after the bike has warmed up..remember that the carb heaters come on when you put the bike in gear and if the outside temp is low enough ( i forget what temp they come on)....they will turn off once the bike warms up and it's not too cold outside....they draw a lot.....55w running lamps take a lot also

[Ponch]

Please ignore if allready posted. Check your voltage at the battery with a digital volt meter and compare. Other drains on the circuit your dash gauge is connected to may cause your volt meter to show less than actual battery voltage.

[slick97spirit]

are these readings before or after the bike has warmed up..remember that the carb heaters come on when you put the bike in gear and if the outside temp is low enough ( i forget what temp they come on)....they will turn off once the bike warms up and it's not too cold outside....they draw a lot.....55w running lamps take a lot also

 

I unplugged my carb heaters last year, but thanks for the suggestion.

 

Please ignore if allready posted. Check your voltage at the battery with a digital volt meter and compare. Other drains on the circuit your dash gauge is connected to may cause your volt meter to show less than actual battery voltage.

 

 

Thanks Ponch, I'm gonna check that. You know before I installed these dang gauges I never worried about it, they sure are pretty though!!!

[Rocket]

12.3 to 12.5 Volts at highway Speed are not enough to keep everything healthy in the long Shot. There's at least 1 Volt missing to normal Operation.

 

Time to check the stator, I suspect you had a winding drop out on you.

As that is about the same voltage of a bike with a crispy stator winding.

 

I had the same voltage range last year, while away on a trip. I had ordered another stator after getting back to base, from the Kootneys.

 

[slick97spirit]

Just an update, I put the tach on the bike and revved it up to 3000rpm and checked the voltage at the terminal. Got a 13.5 at idle and at 3000rpm with or without the passing lamps on so I'm assuming that's adequate(?)

[jlh3rd]

actually....no....the manual states you should be at 13.8 volts..at the rpms your talking about...and like others stated here..measured at the battery.........my gauge shows around 13.8 - almost 14...with passing lamps off, high beam on.......13.5 at idle is good..at around 1000 rpm's.......so idle is good..but your cruising rpm voltage is low...........i have the high output stator...but you should still be higher than 13.5 at speed...

[KeithR]

I just installed a Battery Bug........may help.

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayya5kOMmyY]www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayya5kOMmyY[/ame]

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaBfw77J7fY&feature=related]www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaBfw77J7fY&feature=related[/ame]

 

Keith

[Snaggletooth]

I had the stock stator and R/R a few years back and ran into some odd charging problems, mostly over charging and the voltage ramping up and down severly. The issue was mainly the R/R. That got replaced and the charging leveled out.

 

But with the stock headlight and two 55w drivers and a couple of handfuls for running lights I could barely hold 12.2 volts at an idle. Then hit the brakes with the two 1157's and it would drop below 11.9. (Hope the cooling fan wouldn't kick in at that point)

 

I checked the stator and found one winding was well below specs. I replaced it with the upgrade from Buckeye performance. (Which is actully less output for a 1st gen than a 2nd gen) Once that was in the charging picked right up.

 

Today...with the H9 headlights at 65w, the two halogen drivers at 55w each and eliminating all the 194 bulbs and converting them to LEDs I can idle the bike WITH the brakes on and still show 13.2. When above 2,000 rpm I'm reading with all the lights lit up 13.9. Turn off the drivers and it runs up to 14.2 - 14.4 range.

 

The upgrade stator helps a bunch.

 

If the charging system is not holding better than the standing battery charge you will be having problems down the road. I use a DEKA AGM which is a 12.8 volt battery so I need to see better than 12.8 going back into it at the worst of times to know it's getting charged.

[GeorgeS]

Pull the Plug out of your Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, and Carefully Inspect the Pins inside that plug for any signs of Burn Damage !!!

 

Any, extra resistance across these pins will lower the Voltage. Be sure water and road spray cannot get into this plug !!!!!!