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Thanks. Wonder if I need to put a switch on that when I put the trailer wiring harness on or the passing lamps. Dang, things are starting to pile up!

 

Okay, read his post. Sounds like something I don't really need to worry about right now as I don't plan on riding in the bitter cold. Anything lower than 40, and there isn't a good chance of me riding; Beach Boy Syndrome! I think I can wait awhile to tackle that, though it does seem pretty easy.

 

 

Ben

Edited by Gamecock
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i used the 'SEARCH' function to find carb heater switch mod but can't locate the article you referenced - could someone please post it - thanks...

 

I beleive that only on the 2nd gen. I put a switch so I can shut them off when i want to. Check out Goose's thread in the tech section.
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For what it's worth:

 

I've got an '04 on the lift now getting valve lash and sync. Owner has all the lights, heated vest and sometimes pulls a trailer (I do not know if he uses the vest when towing).

 

When he asked me if I thought he should have me disconnect the carburetor heaters I asked if he'd been having trouble, needing to charge between rides etc. The answer was NO. In fact he's on the original battery and has never had a problem.

 

My advice to him was to leave well enough alone.

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I put the switch in because of my heated gear. I have a digital volt meter and noticed that in 20-30* weather with the running lights off and the heated gear on HIGH my volt meter would read 11.9-12.1 at interstate speeds. I just put a new battery in and noticed the same thing. So a quick flip of the switch I'm back to 13 volts. If i have the Heated Gear on Low then I don't have to cut the carb heaters off.

With Heated gear off and the running lights on and the carb heaters on I usualy run 13.5-13.7 volts. I have never had a battery problem and I did this mod so I don't:2cents:

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I put the switch in because of my heated gear. I have a digital volt meter and noticed that in 20-30* weather with the running lights off and the heated gear on HIGH my volt meter would read 11.9-12.1 at interstate speeds. I just put a new battery in and noticed the same thing. So a quick flip of the switch I'm back to 13 volts. If i have the Heated Gear on Low then I don't have to cut the carb heaters off.

With Heated gear off and the running lights on and the carb heaters on I usualy run 13.5-13.7 volts. I have never had a battery problem and I did this mod so I don't:2cents:

 

 

Duke, I gotta stop reading your posts. You keep putting ideads in my head. :)

 

 

Ben

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I put the switch in because of my heated gear. I have a digital volt meter and noticed that in 20-30* weather with the running lights off and the heated gear on HIGH my volt meter would read 11.9-12.1 at interstate speeds. I just put a new battery in and noticed the same thing. So a quick flip of the switch I'm back to 13 volts. If i have the Heated Gear on Low then I don't have to cut the carb heaters off.

With Heated gear off and the running lights on and the carb heaters on I usualy run 13.5-13.7 volts. I have never had a battery problem and I did this mod so I don't:2cents:

Excellent advice. Without the instruments, you have no real idea what is going on (but even if you add the gauges, you need to know what the readings mean). Stud Muffin (gawd, now I need to disinfect my fingers after having to type that! :shock3: ) understands that and clearly knows what to do about it.

 

You shouldn't assume you don't have a problem just cause you don't have the charge the battery between every ride - in fact, if your battery is that far gone, it's already way too late for you to do anything about it! Seems like most bikers are fairly happy to just get three years out of a bike battery, but that simply means they are regularly destroying their batteries by overloading/under charging, and they have been conditioned to ignore the problem.

Goose

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Excellent advice. Without the instruments, you have no real idea what is going on (but even if you add the gauges, you need to know what the readings mean). Stud Muffin (gawd, now I need to disinfect my fingers after having to type that! :shock3: ) understands that and clearly knows what to do about it.

 

You shouldn't assume you don't have a problem just cause you don't have the charge the battery between every ride - in fact, if your battery is that far gone, it's already way too late for you to do anything about it! Seems like most bikers are fairly happy to just get three years out of a bike battery, but that simply means they are regularly destroying their batteries by overloading/under charging, and they have been conditioned to ignore the problem.

Goose

I agree. my last battery was 5 years old the only reason that I changed it out was because The Muffinman said that I should do a change out just because it was old and He didn't want me stuck not being able to get the bike started. (I think its because i'm tote'n Mini around while he is gone). i have never needed to put a battery tender on my bike and i sometimes only ride (start) it once a month. In the winter I sometimes don't start it for 4-6 weeks at a time, but i monitor the voltage regularly.

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interesting thread about the carb heaters and while my bike is currently open in that same area whilst waiting for the signal flash relay to come in ($24 from Maine yay), this seems like a decent mod to do, why not?

 

I tried finding the threads about the carb heaters.. I recall reading somewhere that you don't want to run with them "OFF" in certain conditions.. and at the time of reading I think I remembered that I actually did ride in those conditions.. Seems is if it's cold enough to need electric heat on the hands, the carbs needed it too? Not sure, can't remember..

 

What's the verdict about this? I found some nice wrap around grip heaters that would be simple to add on and remove for the bike but ya know.. what's the story.. ?

 

Cheers

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I put the switch in because of my heated gear. I have a digital volt meter and noticed that in 20-30* weather with the running lights off and the heated gear on HIGH my volt meter would read 11.9-12.1 at interstate speeds. I just put a new battery in and noticed the same thing. So a quick flip of the switch I'm back to 13 volts. If i have the Heated Gear on Low then I don't have to cut the carb heaters off.

With Heated gear off and the running lights on and the carb heaters on I usualy run 13.5-13.7 volts. I have never had a battery problem and I did this mod so I don't:2cents:

 

Hey Duke, heated gear? And all this time I thought you rode bareback. LOL :whistling:

 

Spotsy

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cool. what's the resoning behind having heated carbs? Better MPG's???

Gonna Let V7Goose answer that one. I don't know.:confused24: Some folks here just pulled the fuse on the heaters and they have no problems. As for me I just put a switch in them to give me more juice when needed.

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cool. what's the resoning behind having heated carbs? Better MPG's???

 

Not really for MPG but rather to help avoid icing in cold weather.

 

As the air speeds through the carb it can be cooled sufficiently to create icing due to evaporation of fuel and the cold air temps. This can freeze the butterfly valves.

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