bald josh Posted December 5, 2009 Share #1 Posted December 5, 2009 Ive tried to find info on replacing my pickup coils, maybe im not looking in the right places. it seems pretty straight forward, but thought if anyone had tips or hints it would be a help. Also reasons for replacement. The problem i am trying to fix is bizzare and my MC mech has suggested the coils. The bike ran fine till it really warmed up, then it started to lag and surge at cruising speeds, kind of like someone was lightly pressing the brake on and off. the bike will hesitate when i roll on the throttle and then jump to life. we put it on a dyno, and the timing on the #2 cylinder is all over the place and the #4 jumps around a little. I have replaced the boost sensor with a tested OK one and swapped the tci with no change in performance. The problem seems to be getting steadily worse.....any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted December 5, 2009 Share #2 Posted December 5, 2009 There have been a few guys that experienced erratic performance of the pickup coils under heat. Replacement cured it for them but they did some extensive tests to track it down. Are you sure you're not running lean? That can produce the "gabbing" sensation and needs addressed immediately... although this effect would also be felt when holding the thottle steady. The coils are securely bolted to the left side cover, two assemblies... two pickups per. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/alternator.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bald josh Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted December 5, 2009 the MC mech dialed the carbs in when he had it on the dyno, said they werent bad and now theyre spot on. It seems so wierd because it is so erratic, its good to hear that replacement has helped others.thanks for the info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phill12 Posted December 5, 2009 Share #4 Posted December 5, 2009 (edited) When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs? If it has been rectently then I would think you may have some water in the fuel. Run a couple of cans of seafoam in the gas. Just put 4 oz or so in everytime you fill up. Phill Edited December 5, 2009 by phill12 MIS a word Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bald josh Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share #5 Posted December 5, 2009 every tank gets a bit 'o' sea foam, and the plugs are new, the problem started in the middle of a 4000 mile trip so its seen plenty of new fuel, and a few sets of plugs.Ive replaced the wires and plug caps too. until i get it sorted out, i wont be taking any long rides (thank god its winter) but i do get out for a couple hours here and there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted December 5, 2009 Share #6 Posted December 5, 2009 Although you may be right about your pickup coils, another trouble spot is the connector from the pickup coils to the main harness. It's a connector about halfway up the frame above the Voltage regukator. Some members have even soldered the wires together along with the wires from the Voltage regulator. Pickup coils come up on ebay every so often... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 7, 2010 Share #7 Posted July 7, 2010 I am trying to take off the cover so that I can (possibly) replace the pickup coils on my bike while I have it all apart and have removed all the screws and the shifter but the cover won't come off. Something seems to be holding it. There is a nut right in the centre which can be seen when the circular cover in the main housing is removed but this does no seem to be the problem, but then again, what do I know. Can someone tell me if there is something else I should undo to enable me to remove this? I sure would hate to end up with a lot of pieces all over the floor. Many Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted July 7, 2010 Share #8 Posted July 7, 2010 I am trying to take off the cover so that I can (possibly) replace the pickup coils on my bike while I have it all apart and have removed all the screws and the shifter but the cover won't come off. Something seems to be holding it. There is a nut right in the centre which can be seen when the circular cover in the main housing is removed but this does no seem to be the problem, but then again, what do I know. Can someone tell me if there is something else I should undo to enable me to remove this? I sure would hate to end up with a lot of pieces all over the floor. Many Thanks. You need to remove the middle gear cover first (it's the smaller cover right behind the main case cover). The wires for the stator and pickup coils run behind it. It needs to come off so the wires can move. There are also pretty strong magnets in the alternator rotor. They will try to pull it back on. It can mash fingers if you get them behind the cover. That nut (I thought it was a bolt!) behind the cover should be left alone. It holds the rotor on, which stays in place when you pull the cover. The access to the bolt is simply to give you something to turn when doing the valve lash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted July 8, 2010 Share #9 Posted July 8, 2010 It could be a bad coil or coils under the battery. They do crack. I am going to replace mine. I am sure one of them is bad on mine. When really hot sitting still. It sometimes misses. And my carbs have been checked out good on an EGA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 8, 2010 Share #10 Posted July 8, 2010 I've removed the middle gear cover and all the bolts around the main case cover but it still won't pull off. What do I do, hook it up to my 5 ton truck and pull or is there an easier way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrich12000 Posted July 8, 2010 Share #11 Posted July 8, 2010 The cover is being held by the gasket. place a flat screw driver on the rear of the cover, apply pressure, and wolla it pops off. now watch our for the starter gears to fall out!!!!!! watch for the orientation of the gears !!! This would be a great tine to change the stator. The hall effect units can now be changed.. Hope this helped.. Mike R.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 8, 2010 Share #12 Posted July 8, 2010 Actually it is not the gasket that is holding it. There is a gap of about a quarter inch all around, more if I pull on it, but it just won't 'pop off', and I don't know where to place a screwdriver, or something else, to apply leverage without causing damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted July 8, 2010 Share #13 Posted July 8, 2010 Actually it is not the gasket that is holding it. There is a gap of about a quarter inch all around, more if I pull on it, but it just won't 'pop off', and I don't know where to place a screwdriver, or something else, to apply leverage without causing damage. Did you pull the circlip for the shift shaft linkage & sliding the shaft out of the cover (towards engine). It is a quicker method than undoing the linkage at the tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 8, 2010 Share #14 Posted July 8, 2010 I have removed the circlip but did not slide it in because the case does not appear to be hung up on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted July 8, 2010 Share #15 Posted July 8, 2010 I have removed the circlip but did not slide it in because the case does not appear to be hung up on it. It will bind on you. Go ahead and push it through (as much as you can). Once that's free it's just you vs. magnets. Did I mention they're really powerful? They'll grab hold of the stator and cause you to cock it in the rotor - binding things up. It helps to rock the cover as you pull out. Don't pry with anything! The cover is pretty fragile. When you go to put it back on those same magnets will rip the cover out of your hands and slam it into the engine case. Keep fingers clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 8, 2010 Share #16 Posted July 8, 2010 Thanks to all for the help. It finally went, as mrich12000 says, 'wolla' and popped off so I guess it was the shaft that was causing the problem. 2 more things if everyone will bear with me. One cog came off, top left which I assume is part of the starter and I can't see any difference front to back but is there a right and a wrong way for this to be installed? The other is the stator. Is there some way I can test this to determine if there is anything wrong with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted July 8, 2010 Share #17 Posted July 8, 2010 There's no front or back to each gear... here's the assembled gear set and rotor. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/starter-rotor.jpg The stator windings can be measured for proper resistance and carefull inspection for overheated windings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 9, 2010 Share #18 Posted July 9, 2010 Does anyone have any recommendations as to where the best place is to buy an after market stator, or is it best to stick to an OEM replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted July 9, 2010 Share #19 Posted July 9, 2010 Does anyone have any recommendations as to where the best place is to buy an after market stator, or is it best to stick to an OEM replacement. OEM replacement is $508 and on back order. Buckeye Performance sells a high output stator for $239 + $30 core charge. Thunder Valley (That's me!) sells an aftermarket brand new OEM equivalent for $161.39, - 15% when you use the discount code "VentureRider" at check out. Don't buy OEM. If you need the extra output buy from Buckeye. For a stock equivalent buy from me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 11, 2010 Share #20 Posted July 11, 2010 I'm baaack! While waiting for some parts to arrive, I have been googling anything that I thought may be useful and came across a question regarding whether or not there should be oil behind the stator cover. The consensus of opinion seems to be that there may be some, maybe only an ounce or so, but no more. Well this is not what I found. When I removed the stator cover all the oil, or nearly all of it, drained. Is there something wrong somewhere or could the angle of the bike have a bearing on this. Mine is sitting on the centre stand, leaning slightly to the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 16, 2010 Share #21 Posted July 16, 2010 I bought a set of used pickup coils, supposed to be in good working condition, and when they arrived found that they must have been found in a dump somewhere because they are in disastrous condition. I cleaned the contacts in the plug without too much problem, but even using an assortment of cleaning products have been unable to get the 4 silver contact points, I have no idea what they are called, in the coils themselves clean. Can someone tell me if these work the same as points in a car ignition system with the gap being of utmost importance, or can I use a file to get them nice and shiny without causing any problems. Then again, is it really necessary for them to be 'nice and shiny'? Many Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bald josh Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share #22 Posted July 16, 2010 nice and shiny is not important! do not file them!!! pretty sure they are just magnets or parts of the magnets, as the fly wheel passes by they are triggered by raised areas and that sends a signal to the ignition. filing them would would destroy them as the gap would be larger and the magnets might not pick up the signal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bald josh Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share #23 Posted July 16, 2010 oh yeah forgot about the oil... more than an ounce will come out if full and on flat ground, so leaning to the left you will get even more. when i did mine i think about 1/4 to 1/2 quart came out, realized later i should have put a shim under the left leg of center stand and maybe i wouldnt have lost any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyCricket Posted July 16, 2010 Share #24 Posted July 16, 2010 Thank you for the reply, and I am glad I waited for an answer before getting out my file. My whole problem started with one cylinder not firing and through trial and error, and considerable help from others on this forum, I am slowly checking everything. I have checked the resistance of the pickup coils and all are within specs, but if your information is correct, and I have no doubt it is, I think a possible reason for my woes could be that the gap on one of the coils my be incorrect and therefore no signal is being picked up for the problem cylinder. If I am correct, do you know of any way I can check this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkuhr Posted July 16, 2010 Share #25 Posted July 16, 2010 pick up coils control two igintion coils each. If just one igintion coil not firing correctly, but others ok I would suspect pickup coils ok. #2 ing coil circuit also controls the feed for the tach-o-meter, and I think something else, but can't remember what right now, maybe something is wrong here killing (shorting or grounding) the feed for the #2 ing coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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