Kross Kountry Posted June 21, 2009 Share #1 Posted June 21, 2009 I just got back from a ten day ride in the Smokey Mts and was it a blast. While I was there a had a couple of issues with my 08 RSV. Before I left home I change my oil, went with 5w-40 rotella syn, and noticed right away that the shifter became very smooth. Two days into the ride it felt like the clutch was slipping as it fully engaged or locked up. The bike would begin to move then it would shutter as I fully released the clutch. At one point we were stuck in stop and go traffic, the bike very warm, the shutter was really bad. That night at the motel I change the oil to 15w-40 rotella, and the clutch smoothed out. Was it the oil, the heat from the engine or do I have some weak clutch springs? As we rode up the to higher altittudes my RSV seem to run better. No chirps, lots of power and very smooth. On day five we dropped down into Maggie Valley and I noticed my bike had a loss of power and a rough idle. We had been riding some wet roads after a good rain so I suspected I had a coil problem. Took the bike into the Asheville NC dealer the next morning and he said that all the plugs, wires and coils were good. I had used some Seafoam a couple of days earlier and he said that he had seen a lot of carb problems caused by Seafoam settling in the float bowl so he drained all the carbs. This just didn't make any logical sence to me but when I got my bike back it was running better. My bike has always had kind of a weak idle and backfires once in a while when you rev it up (sitting still). I should add that I run RK no cat pipes, K&N filters, the air boxes have been opened up and the AIS plugged off. The dealer did check the carb syn and said it was good. Could I have had a little water in one of my float bowls? And is my bike too lean on the Idle jets (needs a shim job)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted June 21, 2009 Share #2 Posted June 21, 2009 I guess I would start with checking the Float Level, settings first . Then set the Idle mix adjust to the start setting of 2 1/4 turns, thats what I use on my 89, not sure exact setting on 2nd gen, ( different carbs ) After all that, you may have to do a Re-Sync proceedure. I would also run some HEET, just in case water in tank, also, completly drain the tank, and put in all new gas. If that doesen't fix it then I would start looking for Intake Manifold vaccume leaks. Inspect your manifolds, make sure no loose bolts where manifolds mounted to the heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kross Kountry Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted June 21, 2009 Sync is good, no loose bolts or water in tank. Not able to check floats and I don't know which screws set the idle jets. I will keep searching for carb diagram or pics. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kross Kountry Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share #4 Posted June 21, 2009 Looking under my carbs for the idle mixture screws, I noticed a tear in one of the AIS tubes attached to the manafold nipple. I'm not sure if the dealer did it, but he definetly missed it. I'll still check my idle mixture settings if anyone can tell me how many turnes the factor sets them. Also both my "y" pipes are leaking. Whats the fix for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie1 Posted June 21, 2009 Share #5 Posted June 21, 2009 Not sure if this info will help or not but but by adding the RK pipes, the K&N filters, and opening up the air box, you may have too much air going in there. May have to re-jet the carbs. Just my $.02 worth. Donnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoyinMS Posted June 21, 2009 Share #6 Posted June 21, 2009 It sounds like your a bit lean after the K&N's, opening the air boxes up and the RK mufflers. More than likely adjusting the pilot screws out 1/4 to 1/2 turn each would probably fix that part of it. With a long screwdriver just pop off the caps that cover the pilots. If you look between the carbs to the inside of the carbs on the opposite side you will see little brass cones. They just pry off. One at a time turn each screw in while you count the turns until it lightly seats. Then just turn out and add a 1/4 turn. And yes, you probably will need to re-sync after. On the clutch issue... I'm have been wondering about the Rotella Synthetic. I'm starting to think there may be something in it that just isn't good for our bikes but I don't know. I drained it out of both my bikes and saved it to use in the car. I know that it is a GREAT oil for my 1-ton Dodge w/Cummins. Believe it or not it has given me a 2.5 mpg increase on in town driving and comparable or better on the highway. I've never done better than 19mpg hwy keeping it at 65mph but I made a 500 mile run to Houston last weekend and got 20.5 going and 21.4 coming back running 75mph. And coming back should have been worse because of idling and stops we made. I never thought an oil change could do that. I like synthetics but for the bikes I think I'll go with Amsoil or Mobil 1... or just stay with 15w40 Dino Rotella. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted June 22, 2009 Share #7 Posted June 22, 2009 That seem's kind of light wgt to me. I have always used 15W-40 Castrol regular oil, And have since changed to 15W-50W Mobil 1. For about 25K now. Seems OK. I just did a change, to 20W-50W Mobil V-Twin oil, going to give that a try. However I have a Barnett Clutch installed, so slippage is not a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davecb Posted June 22, 2009 Share #8 Posted June 22, 2009 Take it to the dealer and have them fix it. It is under warranty, andd it should be their headache and not yours.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fardnarger Posted July 4, 2009 Share #9 Posted July 4, 2009 Warranty doesn't cover clutch, or does it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kross Kountry Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted July 5, 2009 The local dealer said that the clutch is always going to slip when the bike is hot and that the Barnett clutch was a piece of crap. I would like to test a bike with a Barnett clutch so could decide for myself. Is it possible to put washers between the bolt heads and the clutch spring to create for more preasure. Kind of a shim. I would like to shim the pilot needles in the carbs but I have had some bad experiences when it come to carbs. If there is anyone near NW Ark. who could help, I would be very grateful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davecb Posted July 5, 2009 Share #11 Posted July 5, 2009 I've been riding in 95-100 degree temps and my clutch doesn't slip. Your bike is fairly new. Make the dealer get it right... Jump up and down on the service counter...MAKEMDOIT !!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W Posted July 5, 2009 Share #12 Posted July 5, 2009 The local dealer said that the clutch is always going to slip when the bike is hot and that the Barnett clutch was a piece of crap. I would like to test a bike with a Barnett clutch so could decide for myself. Is it possible to put washers between the bolt heads and the clutch spring to create for more preasure. Kind of a shim. I would like to shim the pilot needles in the carbs but I have had some bad experiences when it come to carbs. If there is anyone near NW Ark. who could help, I would be very grateful. The clutch on these bikes does not slip when the bike is hot, and as far as the Barnett clutch, flb has a Barnett clutch in his bike and I have seen him pick the front tire up off the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBear Posted July 5, 2009 Share #13 Posted July 5, 2009 I've been riding in 95-100 degree temps and my clutch doesn't slip. Your bike is fairly new. Make the dealer get it right... Jump up and down on the service counter...MAKEMDOIT !!!!!!!!!!!! +1 on that. The clutch should NOT be slipping. Methinks there's something in the Rotella that doesn't work well with the clutch....Don't we have a "wet plate" in the Ventures? If so, the "super slippery" aspect of some synthetics CAN cause a clutch problem! (Hence the recommendations to us MC specific oil) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroker ace Posted July 5, 2009 Share #14 Posted July 5, 2009 I recently put the rotella 5w-40 syn. and have about 800 miles or so on it with no problems yet. I usually run mobile 15w-50 but they were out, first time with the rotella in a bike. I have used the mobile for several hundred thousand miles before with no issues I guess I'll soon find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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