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Some Tips on Changing the 2nd Gen Coolant


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From reading the posts in this thread, it sounds like there is VERY LITTLE coolant in the water pump. I think one rider estimated 1/4 cup. If that is the case, that 1/4 cup should not have any great affect in the grand scheme of things to make it worth the trouble of draining.

 

It seems, from reading these posts, that if you drain the radiator, reserve/overflow tank, and the four side plugs, you have reasonably drained the system and the little bit left behind would be diluted sufficiently by the new coolant.

 

Thoughts?

 

Also, any tips/tricks to draining the side plugs to keep from getting coolant all over the side of the engine and pipes, etc.?

 

Thanks,

Phoenix

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Is there any consensus on "low" silicate versus "no" silicate coolant?

 

I notice that the manual doesn't stipulate a particular anti-freeze. So will any old juice work?

Coming from a Honda, where they demand "no" silicate coolant and they say that any coolant with silicate will eat Honda water pump seals, is this a problem in the Yamie's?

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From reading the posts in this thread, it sounds like there is VERY LITTLE coolant in the water pump. I think one rider estimated 1/4 cup. If that is the case, that 1/4 cup should not have any great affect in the grand scheme of things to make it worth the trouble of draining.

 

It seems, from reading these posts, that if you drain the radiator, reserve/overflow tank, and the four side plugs, you have reasonably drained the system and the little bit left behind would be diluted sufficiently by the new coolant.

 

Thoughts?

 

Also, any tips/tricks to draining the side plugs to keep from getting coolant all over the side of the engine and pipes, etc.?

 

Thanks,

Phoenix

 

Also very interested on how to minimize coolant from running down the engine.

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Guest tx2sturgis

Hey guys, has anyone thought to try a backflush method on these bikes? Back in the day, when changing the coolant on older model cars, we used to buy one of those plastic backflush 'T' fittings and hook up the garden hose to the fitting and with the engine idling, you turned on the hose and the fresh water from the hose would run in, and the old coolant was completely removed, running out the radiator cap and drain. ( yes, it DID make a mess) Then you just drained all the old tap water out, (leaving a small amount of tap water in the system was considered OK) And refilled with either premix or mixed up your own.

 

What would it take to fab up some kind of either permanent or temporary "T" fitting for backflushing the Royal Stars, or any water cooled bike, for that matter? And what are the objections to doing it this way?

 

 

 

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Hey guys, has anyone thought to try a backflush method on these bikes? Back in the day, when changing the coolant on older model cars, we used to buy one of those plastic backflush 'T' fittings and hook up the garden hose to the fitting and with the engine idling, you turned on the hose and the fresh water from the hose would run in, and the old coolant was completely removed, running out the radiator cap and drain. ( yes, it DID make a mess) Then you just drained all the old tap water out, (leaving a small amount of tap water in the system was considered OK) And refilled with either premix or mixed up your own.

 

What would it take to fab up some kind of either permanent or temporary "T" fitting for backflushing the Royal Stars, or any water cooled bike, for that matter? And what are the objections to doing it this way?

 

It's just my opinion, but I think backflushing would a waste of time on most bikes. (But I don't think it would hurt) I would think the only time backflushing may be needed would be on an engine that had not had the coolant changed often OR has used only tap water. In that case you could have some scale.

Basically, if you drain it and it looks clean then I wouldn't backflush.

Again, just my opinion.

:2cents: :2cents:

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Hey guys, has anyone thought to try a backflush method on these bikes? Back in the day, when changing the coolant on older model cars, we used to buy one of those plastic backflush 'T' fittings and hook up the garden hose to the fitting and with the engine idling, you turned on the hose and the fresh water from the hose would run in, and the old coolant was completely removed, running out the radiator cap and drain. ( yes, it DID make a mess) Then you just drained all the old tap water out, (leaving a small amount of tap water in the system was considered OK) And refilled with either premix or mixed up your own.

 

What would it take to fab up some kind of either permanent or temporary "T" fitting for backflushing the Royal Stars, or any water cooled bike, for that matter? And what are the objections to doing it this way?

 

 

 

 

My main concern here in west Texas would be the fact that the water is so darn hard. The last thing I would want in my cooling system is a flaky build up of sodium and whatever else is in the water here. I know my faucets and stuff corrode ridiculously fast thanks to the water so personally I don't think I would want to run that risk inside my bike.

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  • 1 year later...

I found the best way is Drain the Radiator and the holding tank. Fill with distilled water and run the engine for a short ride or days use. Drain the Radiator and fill tank again and add 50/50 solution to the radiator and fill tank. Run bike for a few day and check the color of the holding tank for a good solid color. I good you are done which it should be and will safe for the engine in all kinds of weather conditions. Draining the fluids out of the other areas of the engine is an over kill in my opinion. Dan

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