JerryK Posted December 11, 2008 Share #1 Posted December 11, 2008 I searched this sight about front lowering and think I will slide the front tubes up on my 2003 Midnight. It looks obvious how to do it but I know the best way is to hear from someone who has done it. So...how about some step by step instruction help? Thanks JerryK:Venture: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithR Posted December 11, 2008 Share #2 Posted December 11, 2008 Jerry Its not something that I have done but I did have this info that I kept from somewhere. This is an easy, free modification. It gives the same effect as raising the rear as far as handling, but you sit lower to the ground, my opinion is it looks better without the rear end sitting lower and the pipes don't drag as easy, and on my one tank of fuel, I managed 175 miles before hitting reserve, an increase of about 15 miles, so I believe the fuel pickup possibly may be improved. 1. Get the bike on a lift, or at least where you can get the weight off the front end. This is the key to making it and easy job. Removing the load on the front lets you move the shock up or down easy and line up the top triple tree for easy removal and replacement. 2. Cover the front fender and the tank with good padding (lessons learned in the past). 3. Carefully, remove the plastic chrome cover over the windshield screws, 2 bolts with a 3mm allen wrench. 4. Remove the windshield, 6 screws, 3mm allen wrench. 5. Remove the front outer fairing, 6, 3mm allen screws, and last, the 5mm allen screw under the headlight. 6. Remove two 12mm nuts that hold the inner fairing, behind the top of the headlight, a 3/8 extension works great, and two 5mm allen bolts, one at each side just behind the bottem of the headlight. 7. With those 4 bolts out, the fairing will come forward several inches. I rolled up a towell and stuffed behind the fairing to hold it away from the forks, you only need 3-4 inches. 8. Put extra padding on the tank and remove the handlebars with a 6mm allen wrench. working I my basement, I actually put a hook in the floor joists overhead, so I could suspend the handlebars in midair and work around them. I would go ahead and remove the front plastic cable guides from the handlebars. They will be in the way of getting to the air valve and the cables can't move around much anyway. 9. Remove the top triple tree. A 1-1/16" socket gets the large nut, remove the washer behind it, remove the two bolts on the front of the triple tree with a 5mm allen wrench, and loosen the 4 allen bolts, two on each side that clamp the triple tree to the forks. Lift off the triple tree and the two fork covers. 10.Mark each fork with a Sharpie, the official marker of NASCAR. Now do one side at a time, loosen the two bolts clamping the bottom triple tree to the fork and slide it up the desired amount. I found if you twist and pull, it comes easily. I pulled the fork up one inch, although it looks like 1 1/2 inches would be feasible as far as clearance goes. Be sure and rotate the forks about 60 degrees, so that the air valve on top is pointed out or you will not be able to get to them for the handlebars. Clamp it down with the two bolts in the triple tree. Do the other side the same way. 11. Reverse the steps to put it back together. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted December 12, 2008 Share #3 Posted December 12, 2008 I lowered mine by 1" in an effort to make it handle more quickly. There are some instructions posted here that do not have you take apart the triple tree. Rode it for about a week. Got a speed wobble. Raised it back to stock. Learned from my mistake and decided to LEARN how to properly ride a bike. Purchased the DVDRide Like a Pro V and the book Proficient Motorcycling and attended a MSF motorcycle rider course. Best money I ever spent!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankeereb Posted December 12, 2008 Share #4 Posted December 12, 2008 I lowered my 1 inch following the instructions posted on this site. It has greatly improved the slow speed handling. I do not get any front end wobble. I can also flat foot it now. It is well worth the time to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W Posted December 12, 2008 Share #5 Posted December 12, 2008 I also lowered the front end of my RSV using the instructions on this site and have been very satisfied with the results. I also have the Baron's kit to lower the back which I plan to install soon. I have not encountered any wobble with the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted December 12, 2008 Share #6 Posted December 12, 2008 Worked fine for me too. Just plan on a couple hours doing this mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryK Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share #7 Posted December 12, 2008 Who knows how to do it W/O taking tree apart? JerryK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
az1103 Posted December 13, 2008 Share #8 Posted December 13, 2008 Who knows how to do it W/O taking tree apart? JerryK No can do Jerry! But what's the difficulty ? Just take your time and make sure you move those stanchions exactly the same ammount. And you may safely disregard the only post about a wabble.... If there was a wabble, it wasn't because of the mod. It was either because of a loose head bearing or improperly done mod. I have ridden many thousands of miles since doing the mod and have nothing but good to say about it. It greatly improves handling and allows a better foot stance at stops. I would not advise lowering the rear though, because you would essentially be undoing the geometry change which you get by lowering the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted December 13, 2008 Share #9 Posted December 13, 2008 I did the mod correctly, and I torqued the head bearings with a claibrated torque wrench. 20 Years in the US Navy showed me the value of calibrated measuring tools. It appears that I am the only one who has reported a speed wobble after doing the mod, so it must be an isolated case or if it happened to someone else, they did not report it. I have not had a wobble after un-modding my front end. I recomend that you lower you bike as a last resort. get your seat modded to lower it or better yet, narrow it, so those with shorter inseames can flat foot when the bike is stopped. One probelm with lowering any bike is you decrease the maximum lean angle, which increases the minimum turning radius. IF you need to lean the bike way over to avoid a collision, you might run out of turning radius..... Just a warning. RIDE SAFE!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Bullet Posted December 13, 2008 Share #10 Posted December 13, 2008 lowered mine just for the heck of it.has no wobbleat all . have taken my hands of going 40mph. just to see if it would track streight... went streight as a string..you can't do this mod if you don''t take the tripple tree apart.you do not take the entir tree off your bike.but go ahead and do the mod ,,it will be a good learing exercize.take your time and enjoy the mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
az1103 Posted December 14, 2008 Share #11 Posted December 14, 2008 I did the mod correctly, and I torqued the head bearings with a claibrated torque wrench. 20 Years in the US Navy showed me the value of calibrated measuring tools. It appears that I am the only one who has reported a speed wobble after doing the mod, so it must be an isolated case or if it happened to someone else, they did not report it. I have not had a wobble after un-modding my front end. I recomend that you lower you bike as a last resort. get your seat modded to lower it or better yet, narrow it, so those with shorter inseames can flat foot when the bike is stopped One probelm with lowering any bike is you decrease the maximum lean angle, which increases the minimum turning radius. IF you need to lean the bike way over to avoid a collision, you might run out of turning radius..... Just a warning. RIDE SAFE!!!!!!!! There is another possibility here, did you by any chance put a smaller tire in the front as well as lower it? In that case your wabble could be due to that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted December 15, 2008 Share #12 Posted December 15, 2008 I did not change the tire until about 2000 miles after I raised it back up. The replacement tire is a Avon Venom in the stock size. I cannot think of any other variables.... but thanks for making me re-think the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIKD Posted December 17, 2008 Share #13 Posted December 17, 2008 Lowered mine using the directions on this site. I ride fairly aggressively and have not run into any problems with cornering clearances or wobbles. Best mod I've ever done to the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hhoffmanlv Posted December 22, 2008 Share #14 Posted December 22, 2008 I also followed the instructions from here and would not change it back. I have put 15000 mi on the bike since the change. I also went to the narrow tire about 8k back.. Still no wobble. I have an 06 rsvm. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W Posted December 22, 2008 Share #15 Posted December 22, 2008 No can do Jerry! But what's the difficulty ? Just take your time and make sure you move those stanchions exactly the same ammount. And you may safely disregard the only post about a wabble.... If there was a wabble, it wasn't because of the mod. It was either because of a loose head bearing or improperly done mod. I have ridden many thousands of miles since doing the mod and have nothing but good to say about it. It greatly improves handling and allows a better foot stance at stops. I would not advise lowering the rear though, because you would essentially be undoing the geometry change which you get by lowering the front. If you lowered front and rear then went to the smaller front tire, would that give back the improved handling you were looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
az1103 Posted December 23, 2008 Share #16 Posted December 23, 2008 If you lowered front and rear then went to the smaller front tire, would that give back the improved handling you were looking for? You know Jerry.....Having read all the various posts on those smaller front tires, on this site and others,I just wouldn't do it..... Too many have mentioned the high speed loss of handling. I ride mostly two up, and when touring , whether you like it or not, you are frequently going to end up on a Freeway....That big beast just glides and holds the road sooo nice at 70-85 that I wouldn't want to sacrifice that !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straight pipe Posted December 28, 2008 Share #17 Posted December 28, 2008 If it's in here I missed it... What about the kickstand? If a bike is lowered and the OEM kickstand is kept it will raise the angle of the bike when parked. How will this mod effect the angle. Does the kickstand need to be replaced or modified ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted December 28, 2008 Share #18 Posted December 28, 2008 I did not notice a big difference with the bike on the kick stand when the front of my bike was lowered. No need to modify the kick stand, if you lower just the front of you bike.. I cannot comment if you lower the front and rear, as I did not do it to my bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragracer Posted December 29, 2008 Share #19 Posted December 29, 2008 My 99 is lowered 1.5" in the rear with the Barons kit, 1" in the front by moving the forks up, and I have the smaller tire on front. Absouletely NO handling problems. The bike is easier to ride, stopping is easier (cause I can now reach the ground with both feet), and it handles perfectly! 99% of my riding is 2 up. And the kickstand will work with no modifications! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcy Posted January 2, 2009 Share #20 Posted January 2, 2009 I also followed the instructions from here and would not change it back. I have put 15000 mi on the bike since the change. I also went to the narrow tire about 8k back.. Still no wobble. I have an 06 rsvm. Hope this helps. What do you think the narrower tire does for the bike? Does it make the front end seem lighter? lower to the ground? ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drillmaster Posted January 2, 2009 Share #21 Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) hi there....iwas told about the lowering of the forks....but i decided to lower the rear end with a lowering kit which costs about $80.....the bike is in storage for the winter and having the work done....hope this is a better solution for me:thumbsup::dancefool:could always add an extra sole on my boot Edited January 2, 2009 by drillmaster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIKD Posted January 2, 2009 Share #22 Posted January 2, 2009 hi there....iwas told about the lowering of the forks....but i decided to lower the rear end with a lowering kit which costs about $80.....the bike is in storage for the winter and having the work done....hope this is a better solution for me:thumbsup::dancefool:could always add an extra sole on my boot The only problem with doing it this way is it further throws off the handling of the bike. From stock the front sits a little taller than the back. By lowering the front you make it level and drastically improve the handling. By only lowering the rear you're headed in the opposite direction. It might be lower but you'll feel it in the handling, especially low speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
az1103 Posted January 3, 2009 Share #23 Posted January 3, 2009 hi there....iwas told about the lowering of the forks....but i decided to lower the rear end with a lowering kit which costs about $80.....the bike is in storage for the winter and having the work done....hope this is a better solution for me:thumbsup::dancefool:could always add an extra sole on my boot Wrong decision, I believe, going the wrong way altogether.......Will only make the handling worse, plus it will look like it's dragging it's tail. On the other hand, you'll be closer to the ground while dropping it at slow speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FutureVentures Posted August 8, 2009 Share #24 Posted August 8, 2009 Ok, I don't get it. I have the tree off the top, two bolts on lower tree are fully loose but I can NOT get the fork to move up, not budging one bit! Would removing front tire make it lighter and easier to lift? Or can I lower the bike onto ground and let gravity push the forks up? Confused...help please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FutureVentures Posted August 9, 2009 Share #25 Posted August 9, 2009 Re-read Freebirds post in the tech tips section, bike off lift, a bit of WD 40 and VOILA! lowere if 1 7/16ths, cause that's the closest I could get to 1.5 inches. This was a challenge! 3 trips to pep boys later, it's done. Look forward to riding it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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