Side cover oil leadk

[Props]

Well... Old Blue is still piddling like a bad puppy ... even after all the cleaning and sealing. Give her 15 minutes to warm up and that side case starts a dripping. An old HD rider friend of mine recommended Excell sealant... said it's the only thing he's found that'll keep a Harley from leaking. The bad part about it is if you ever want to take it apart again, you'll be sorry you used it.

 

Going to dye penetrant both the side cover and the crankcase after hitting it with a little heat. The only thing I can think of is there is a crack somewhere that isn't visible, but opens up when the engine comes up to temperature.

 

If there isn't a crack will try to double gasket it next time along with a good dose of Permatex.

 

Meanwhile I bought a box of maxi-pads... just slip one between the clutch line and the case and it'll keep it from making everything oily from mid-ships aft for about 200 miles.. get funny looks from folks at the gas station when disposing of them though

[Venturous Randy]

Meanwhile I bought a box of maxi-pads... just slip one between the clutch line and the case and it'll keep it from making everything oily from mid-ships aft for about 200 miles.. get funny looks from folks at the gas station when disposing of them though

 

Wow, talk about engine-nu-ity.

RandyA

[Condor]

Well... Old Blue is still piddling like a bad puppy ... even after all the cleaning and sealing. Give her 15 minutes to warm up and that side case starts a dripping. An old HD rider friend of mine recommended Excell sealant... said it's the only thing he's found that'll keep a Harley from leaking. The bad part about it is if you ever want to take it apart again, you'll be sorry you used it.

 

Going to dye penetrant both the side cover and the crankcase after hitting it with a little heat. The only thing I can think of is there is a crack somewhere that isn't visible, but opens up when the engine comes up to temperature.

 

If there isn't a crack will try to double gasket it next time along with a good dose of Permatex.

 

Meanwhile I bought a box of maxi-pads... just slip one between the clutch line and the case and it'll keep it from making everything oily from mid-ships aft for about 200 miles.. get funny looks from folks at the gas station when disposing of them though

 

With the thing still leaking as much as it is, I find it surprising that you can't put your finger on the leak?? Have you ever tried covering all the area with talc, and let it warm up in idle til it starts leaking?? That'll usually pinpoint the culprit by leaving a trail.

[GeorgeS]

I never thought of that. But they are pretty thin. I guess its worth a try.

[MiCarl]

On mine the grommet the stator wires runs through didn't fill the hole. It left a gap up against the crankcase.

 

When you get it running the rotor throws oil up there. When the oil heats up it really comes out through there.

 

I ended up putting a bead of RTV on it, set finger tight and torqued an hour later.

[Props]

I have been able to isolate the leak... between the 6 o'clock and aft most bottom bolts.

 

Degrease and wipe her down till she's dry as a bone, let her sit till the cows come home and nothing happens... but put her up on the center stand and set the RPM at 2000 and 10 minutes later you'll start to see seepage at the split line between those two bolts... another 5 minutes and you have a drop forming on that little tit on the case that sticks out by the #6 bolt... you can almost set your watch by it!

 

That's why I originally thought that the stator wire boots were leaking and running down and forward along that flange when static... since it's the lowest point... but they are dry, dry, dry.

 

Also thought that I had a clutch line leak, since that hard line connection is right in the same area... but haven't been losing clutch fluid, and fluid sure don't run up and jump an air gap while she's standing still! Even pumped the crap out of the clutch while everything was clean and dry and couldn't budge a seep of any kind.

 

Quite the conundrum... even my cover or case crack theory bothers me... knowing that the cover went on easy and the bolts were never over-torqued. I really am trying to guard against over-thinking this problem, and there doesn't seem to be any reason for a crack in either the cover or the case... but 30 years around turbine and piston engines tells me that even the most irrational things can happen!

 

Word to the wise... with as many miles as I ride every year, if I can't find a crack and double gaskets don't work... buy stock in Maxi Pads!

[Condor]

If it t'were I, I'd get some of that 'form-a-gasket' from Perma-tex, or 3M and run a bead along the bottom edge of the stator case on both sides of a single gasket. Let it sit partially snugged until the stuff sets, and then torque it down. If it leaks after that, then the leak is coming from somewhere else.

[Rocket]

I have been able to isolate the leak... between the 6 o'clock and aft most bottom bolts.

 

Degrease and wipe her down till she's dry as a bone, let her sit till the cows come home and nothing happens... but put her up on the center stand and set the RPM at 2000 and 10 minutes later you'll start to see seepage at the split line between those two bolts... another 5 minutes and you have a drop forming on that little tit on the case that sticks out by the #6 bolt... you can almost set your watch by it!

 

 

Possible leak between the upper & lower engine cases. If so, hopefully you only need to snug up a few engine case bolts in the area.

 

[Props]

Almost a year later I finally have the stator cover oil leak fixed... and I suspect you all out there will think I have completely lost it... assuming I ever had it to begin with... you'll never guess what fixed it!

 

As has been posted, in part, in this thread I had the side cover off... count 'em... TEN times... trying to get it to stop seeping at the 6 0'clock position. Thicker gaskets, with and without sealant, dye penetrant checks of the case and cover, stock gaskets with and without sealant, a half dozen different types of gasket sealer... all to no avail.

 

And NO it was not the harness boots, or the shift shaft seal... or any thing like that... it was the stator! I know what you're thinking... this guy's a loon... and that's what I would think if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.

 

I installed an RM High Output Stator as a preventative measure prior to a 3K mile ride and within 20 miles of riding had oil weeping from the cover. That same stator failed last month with 3 coils that were crispy critters. With the replacement stator installed I find that it performs completely differently than the first RMS did... much more stable and higher voltage maintained at idle with all running and brake lights on.

 

Secondly, I thought it curious that the engine oil turned black almost immediately after an oil change with the first RMS... with the new one it slowly darkens over time...

 

Thirdly, the engine temp stays at or just above mid-point now... with the failed stator it would run in the upper third of the gauge all the time... even if the OAT was below 70 degrees.

 

Lastly... since I had resigned myself to having that slow oil leak for the rest of my life no matter what I did (see above), I installed the cover after this last stator change with a stock gasket... and voila!, no leak!

 

Here's my theory... the first RMStator was bad from day one and getting hot enough to cook off the oil and pressurize the stator cover, forcing the oil out past the gasket. The low idle voltage, the oil leak, the high operating temps, and toasted oil all went away after the stator change... almost like magic.

 

So that's my story and I am sticking to it... unless someone else has a better idea... But, I have to say that I can't recall reading a wackier theory on this site...

 

By the way... I have a half a pack of light days ultra thin maxi pads that I won't be needing to keep that oil leak from splattering up my saddle bag... they're the ones with no wings... they fit better between the case and the clutch line... I think I'll have a little ceremony to retire their memory... they are a constant reminder of a dark time...

[Condor]

Bet that motor is going to run a little quieter too.

[Jrichard]

Did you make sure to put the copper washer back on the bottom most bolt on the cover??? It will leak like a sieve if you don't, same as the middle gear cover right behind it.

 

Dan

AMEN---:thumbsup2:

[Venturous Randy]

AMEN---:thumbsup2:

 

The bottom hole is a blind hole on the stator cover and does not need a copper washer.

I agree with all Props said except the part about the stator cover "pressurizing" and causing the leak. It is open to the rest of the engine and should not hold pressure.

RandyA

[Dano]

Yep Randy, you caught me in a "dumb-***" moment there. Agree with the non-pressurization of the case. But it sounds like a good story!

[jasonm.]

for what it's worth. A bad or hot stator does not cause leaks unless it warped the cases. But that is also very unlikely. The cases are vented thru the airbox. Believe it or not. The wires and gromments are 99% the cause of these leaks at the cover. Next time. If it ain't broke...don't fix it.