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Fuel Pump replacement...and best carb clean "how to"


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I'm not sure what the big deal is about using screwdriver there I have arthritis and sometimes have too....

 

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I think the confusion was the difference between moving the wheel along by the cogs using a common or actually using a Phillips from underneath. I just grab a common and make minute adjustments until I'm at around 1050-ish

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Ok I am proud to say I have Four slides ready for New Diaphragms Who has the link to the ones everyone uses that uses no glue you just put them on after getting enough space to get them in there....

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pcs-Carburetor-Slide-Diaphragm-Yamaha-V-MAX-1200-VMX12-VMAX-V-MAX-1985-2007-/281761118293?hash=item419a457855:g:3c4AAOSwrklVXmxv

 

Check with the seller for your application but this is the seller I used and all good.

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The good news is....

I got the carbs sync'd today...and the idle adjusted right.

 

Sync the carbs was WAY more work that it needed to be. Some links and directions have the banks on the wrong place for my bike.

I have an '86....so some of the directions are probably for the older bike. But I have 1 and 2 on the LEFT side of my bike. 3 and 4 on the Right side, and within 1/2 of that is the one that sync's left side to the right side. Once I really understood it all, it was all good. I am not 100%, but I am 95% and the idle now when hot is about 1,000 rpm.

 

Bike is MUCH quicker off the line than before.

 

I managed to burn my hand a couple of times...fun fun.

 

Now, the concern.

 

I rode it for a while. About 20 miles at 65-67 mph (about 3,600 rpm). Then about 30 miles at 55-57 (about 3,000 rpm) then the last 20 at 65ish again. Had 2 stops. My mpg was about 27. Now....to be fair...I know I need to average it over much more time riding to get a better idea...with only 70 miles, the variance in how full the tank was and stuff can make numbers skewed...but that still seems really low. Any thoughts?

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That is low, I was fighting MPG in the high 20s for quite a while.

 

Is all your maintenance current, fresh plugs, valves adjusted, tire inflation etc? Running ethanol free fuel?

 

Assuming all is right with the engine and it's hitting on all 4 cylinders I would suspect carb floats out of adjustment or worn emulsion tubes. There are other things it can be but those are two well known MPG issues. I fixed mine with Skydocs shim mod and it got me up to the 40-ish range that I need. I'm pretty sure the PO of your bike set the floats already, I know he was in the carbs several times.

 

Heres a thread I started a while back, started out as forks and got turned into a lot of MPG discussion, good info here too. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?128796-Blown-new-fork-seal-fresh-rebuild-metal-shavings/page3

 

and the Skydoc shims I used that finally got me to the 40mpg arena. I suspect different needles and new emulsion tubes might be the ticket next time I pull the carbs but really not trying to spend tons of money now. I tried it and it worked. Runs strong and I just took a trip over 4 states and got around 40, even riding into headwinds.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?51100-Needle-Shim-Mod

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That is low, I was fighting MPG in the high 20s for quite a while.

 

Is all your maintenance current, fresh plugs, valves adjusted, tire inflation etc? Running ethanol free fuel?

Another one is dragging pads due to stuck brake pistons.
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Yes in 5th gear.

 

I did not think about ethanol in the fuel. How much difference can that be?

 

Nope, it's not enough to knock that much off. On my bikes and in my car ethanol is enough to see the difference in MPG and feel a hit to power. Your bike should be somewhere around 40-ish and ethanol alone wont come close to knocking it down that much.

 

Indirectly it can start gunking up the carbs if left to sit with ethanol for a length of time and that could knock performance and MPG down significantly. I use seafoam to counter the ethanol when I do have to use it.

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Another one is dragging pads due to stuck brake pistons.

 

That too, I had replaced all my calipers. Get it on the center stand and make sure they wheels spin without binding up. If you can get this big obese turd up on the center, it's a chore.

 

While on the center is a good time to inspect steering head bearings and rear swing arm bearings.

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That too, I had replaced all my calipers. Get it on the center stand and make sure they wheels spin without binding up. If you can get this big obese turd up on the center, it's a chore.

 

While on the center is a good time to inspect steering head bearings and rear swing arm bearings.

Come on its not that hard.... Ok so it took me a little bit to figure it out myself but once you do its easy...

 

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That too, I had replaced all my calipers. Get it on the center stand and make sure they wheels spin without binding up. If you can get this big obese turd up on the center, it's a chore.

 

While on the center is a good time to inspect steering head bearings and rear swing arm bearings.

 

 

OK, Any tips/tricks on this? I will try to do it tonight.

I am (hopefully) going on a 6-7 hour ride tomorrow. I will deal with the low mpgs for now...I cant think that it will HURT anything, just my wallet.

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The best and easiest way to get the bike on the center stand is to stand on the left side facing forward, put your left hand on the handlebars, put your right heel on the center stand "knob" and your right hand on the passenger grab bar, and simultaneously stomp your heel and jerk the grab bar. It takes a bit of oomph but you will get the hang of it. If you are safety conscious, keep the kickstand down the first couple of times. The center stand will automatically center the bike as it goes up so don't fight it but instead let it find it's center...

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OK, Any tips/tricks on this? I will try to do it tonight.

I am (hopefully) going on a 6-7 hour ride tomorrow. I will deal with the low mpgs for now...I cant think that it will HURT anything, just my wallet.

You will probably notice difference in mpg going on a trip, and 5th gear some don't use it till there above 65..

 

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Got it up on the center stand.

brakes ARE dragging!

 

Both front and back turn...but I can hear a little metal on metal sound.

 

now, how do I fix it? lol.

Well can you spin the wheel with little effort?

 

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yes, one handed is fine...its not locked up or anything....but there seems to be some drag. I cant "spin" it like a bicycle tire or anything. of course...I dont know if I am supposed to. lol

Well go do a coast test is all I can suggest if I got good level ground I can get it up to around 35 and coast for a block or so here in my town I like to hit fourway stop and get it up to 35 pop it in neutral and coast all the way home which is 9/10 of a mile. Plus it isn't flat I can actually coast all the way to the gas station which its 1.6 miles from that stop sign.... Bit your bike should coast fairly well...

 

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yes, one handed is fine...its not locked up or anything....but there seems to be some drag. I cant "spin" it like a bicycle tire or anything. of course...I dont know if I am supposed to. lol
The front wheel won't spin like they do on a bicycle. The rear even less so due to the shaft and rear drive drag.

 

Got it up on the center stand.

brakes ARE dragging!

 

Both front and back turn...but I can hear a little metal on metal sound.

 

now, how do I fix it? lol.

Any sound when turning the wheels is not a good thing. I think it can be considered a given that the brakes on these old bikes need more attention than they usually get. Best thing to do is take off the caliper and the pads then pump the brake a couple of times. If all the pistons do not move approximately in unison then they are potentially a problem and should be cleaned. The pads and pins can get rusty and should also be scraped clean.

 

The pistons are about 1" long and can be extended 5/8" - 3/4" before they fall out. Use a green scrubby, Scotch pad, to clean the piston. The pistons can be pressed out one at a time with a compressor. Not so easily done using brake pressure as I found out yesterday.

 

While the first piston came out easily it made a bit of a mess with the brake fluid and got a lot of air in the system. After spending close to two hours on getting the piston back in and bleeding the system I decided not to try removing a second piston that way. Just cleaned around the rest of the pistons. There was some crud in the one that was done and so I think removing the others would be a good thing to do, just need a better method of doing it.

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2000 feet is pretty good 1000 feet. Was the 1000 ft the second attempt?

 

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you are talking about 9/10 of a mile on yours....and I am only getting 2/10 or 3/10....so I feel like that is not good at all. lol.

 

First attempt was 3/10, then 2/10 twice, then 3/10....maybe just a little longer on the 4th try...that was the slightly downhill.

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