Pilot Air Screw Factory Settings ?

I can not for the life of me find any place including the factory manual

what the Pilot Air Screw Factory Settings are,. I hear so many different story's that there different on each carb. so what were they originally

before everybody set them to 2.5 turns out? So does anybody remember or have there note's on each carb number what there settings used to be?

Thanks,

Jeff

I think it is probably because there really is no standard. It would really require and exhaust gas analyzer to adjust them properly. I do think that 2 1/2 is a good starting point though. I think that 2 1/4 was sort of a standard but they would all vary.

There was a post, but as Don said the setting might vary for each bike to get the proper mixture. The previous post had a different setting for each carb and I have no idea if it would have been the same on all bikes. I set mine to those settings and it didn't help as one cylinder seemed to sputter a bit so I went by ear and got it running pretty good. 2.5 is a good starting point if one side seems like its not running right try the carbs on that side, I beleive I had to open one carb a little further.

Here is one thread that explains it fairly well but probably won't help much because it really reaches no conclusion on the number of turns.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32906&highlight=analyzer

Yeah that is what I was looking for, But I wish Kent would

have went back to his notes and posted what his findings were

on each individual carb. (TURNS)

Thanks guys!

Jeff

A friend of mine that has a Venture has a friend that tunes boat motors and other types of engines suggested that I try this method to adjust my pilot screws this way.

He has done this for years on his Venture. (gets almost 50 mpg) yes 50

not a typo. he also says the different parts of the country will have a

different effect do to climate and altitude.

My Starting Point was 2.1/4 turns out.

My Findings were just as he described, after doing this I found that

my final sync was dead on , carb-tune sticks were not bouncing all

over the place, and how smooth the engine is running now.

I placed # 3 hose of my carb-tune (pick any hose) I chose that one

so I could see better, take one plug cap off at a time and adjust the screw

in or out until you reach the highest point on the stick. I have rubber caps

on all 4 of my manifolds as I removed the entire AIS System years ago.

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Put cap back on and go to the next carb, adjust ALL of them separate

turning the low speed screw in or out until you reach the sweet spot.

Now put all the hoses on and do a full sync. you will be amazed!

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Peace!

Jeff

If one still has the AIS system, do you think it would afect this procedure?

Thanks by the way. This makes a lot of sense.

Basically, that's exactly the way I was taught to adjust all carbs... adjust the idle air (PMS in our case) to get the highest vacuum reading.

works like a charm jeff!!

great post!!

you guys with an extra wheel on the ground, get to run around a bit more often than the 2 wheelers!!

mike

:scratchchin:Thinking of putting studded snow tires on the trike and testing it out this weekend:scratchchin:

Randy I do not think so. folks still sync there carbs with the AIS installed.

All I know is how smooth and more powerful it feels now, Just can not wait to see

how it has effected my fuel mileage.

Cougar, If you're going to sync the carbs anyway, why not just hookup all four hoses and use the appropriate vial for pilot adjustment. Just thinking. Sounds like a good chore when all the other chores get done.