Remove TCI

How do you remove the TCI from an '86 VR. I think I have a moisture problem as it is stumbling and running like it's missing part of the time. I went through some pretty heavy thunderstorms this summer and drown the bike pretty good 3-4 times. Can't think of what else it would be. Got new plugs and the warmer the engine gets the better it runs.

Do you have to remove all the front end plastic? I've removed the battery and box and it looks like the whole front of the bike has to come off to get at the TCI screws/bolts as they are somewhere underneath the battery box crossmember.

Hope I'm missing something and there is an easier way...

Remove the Air Cleaner Box.

You might also have to remove the Battery box.

Remove the lower left side fairing.

NOT, the upper fairing.

Remove the PVC Plastic Heat Shields, they will be in the way.

4 bolts holding it in place. They are #3 Phillips head Screws.

Use a 1/4 ratchet handle. Use a #3 TIP, inserted in a Socket. You will most likley need lots of torque to break them loose.

( Don't even think of useing a Stuby Phillips screw driver. You won't be able to get enough torque to break them loose )

Also, consider replaceing the PLUG Wires, while you have Easy access to them.

Do a resistance check of the Plug caps also.

Also, check all the water hoses on top of engine, you will have access.

Check for spilled battery Acid damage also, if you pull the battery box.

Clean the 4 Plugs going to the Ignition Coils.

Thanks George..

Yep. What George said. Now if ya happen to have the carbs out it's really easy. But that's not a very good short cut. LOL! When I had mine apart I pulled mine and checked it and sealed the case. I replaced the phillips with SS allen head flange bolts so when the time comes to remove or replace it I can get it out with a 1/4 inch drive set and a swivel on the extension. Much easier to get a grip on.

The resealing the case made a huge difference in mine. I've been out in some nasty storms this summer and it never acted up again.

Nah, went thru the carb thing 3 months ago... they stay put . I am thinking about moving the TCI up on top of the air cleaner. Saw some pics on here.. looks good; at least you can get at it if you need to.

Remove the Air Cleaner Box.

 

You might also have to remove the Battery box.

 

Remove the lower left side fairing.

 

NOT, the upper fairing.

 

Remove the PVC Plastic Heat Shields, they will be in the way.

 

4 bolts holding it in place. They are #3 Phillips head Screws.

 

Use a 1/4 ratchet handle. Use a #3 TIP, inserted in a Socket. You will most likley need lots of torque to break them loose.

 

( Don't even think of useing a Stuby Phillips screw driver. You won't be able to get enough torque to break them loose )

 

Also, consider replaceing the PLUG Wires, while you have Easy access to them.

 

Do a resistance check of the Plug caps also.

 

Also, check all the water hoses on top of engine, you will have access.

 

Check for spilled battery Acid damage also, if you pull the battery box.

 

Clean the 4 Plugs going to the Ignition Coils.

Well George, that sucker ain't comming out:bang head: The screws/bolts are rusted in there solid. Even took off the left fairing so I could have plenty of room. Had 1/4" socket with screw driver tip adapter and #3(and #2 and #4, etc) and it just eats the center out. Lots of battery acid damage to the area and rust. Yes, did the liquid wrench first. So, took off the 2 plugs.. yuk. Did the blades on the TCI with a toothbrush, contact cleaner, and the area with carb cleaner. Took the other plugs apart and cleaned them as well. Will work on the plug wires next. I can probably get it out with a chisel but if I bust something, I have no spare. Guess I'll see what I can do on ebay. Going to try to get some plug wire(copper core 7mm). I'll see if I can find the resistance numbers for the plug caps on here somewhere.

Thanks again to you and Snagg. Hope I can remember how it all goes back together:fingers-crossed-emo

Factory plug caps have about 10k ohm resistance. If somebody has installed NGK caps then they will probably be about 5k.

I've not had my TCI out so this is just a rough idea. The screws come up from the bottom, thru the TCI flanges and into the threaded holes in the crossmember under the battery box - right? Can you access the tips of the screws (threaded end) from the top with the batt box out? How about this:

1. Center punch and drill out the screws from the top. Drill threads out and countersink from top.
   
2. Install some kind of nut plates on the TCI flanges - clip, glue, whatever you can do. Maybe T-nuts or well nuts (available at HW store)
   
3. Use flat head screws to screw down into the TCI nut plates from the top. (Flat head to allow batt box to sit flat. If there's sufficient room for a hex head bolt, use that instead.
   

Will that work? Of course, it you move it up top I guess this is moot. If you use an AGM battery, you won't have these corrosion problems in the future.

Jeremy

OK, Do you have a Dremel Tool ??? IF not, good time to buy one. And its a darn handy tool to have. !! ( money well spent for future jobs )

With the various grinding tips avialable you should be able to Grind off the Screw Heads !! Slow Tedious, but should be possible. YOur not going to re use them anyway. Grind off heads, and unit should drop right out.

Also, check your Cable's going to TCI, See if they are long enough to reach the top position, if you decide to remount it there. Some bikes the cables are long enough, some are not. I had to add wire length to mine.

Also, as long as you Have the Left UPPER Fairing Removed. -----

I know you don't want to hear this--- BUT-- Easy Access.

The '"Throttle Joint Unit," if you have never serviced it, Open it up and Clean and Lubricate, everything inside there. ( carefull a spring will FLY OUT !! )

Also--- this is the PERFECT Time to REPLACE the Throttle Cables !!! About $40.00 bucks for a complete new set of 4 !!! ( as long as the upper fairing is removed )

Check the Pull Cable, at the lft Fwd, Carb, if any sign of cable Fraying, Replace the cables. ( Consider the possibility of haveing to replace cables out in Neveda, on highway 50 )

Also, a good time to RESOLDER, the STUDS on both Ends of the + Battery Cable.

Also, there is a MAIN GROUNDING STUD, left of bat, on upper fairing member.

Remove bolt, Clean, and ReSolder All of the Studs, on the Black Ground Wires that are grounded to this Stud. !! ( Again, Easy Access )

Use CRC 2-26, On EVERY Electrical Connector that you now have Easy ACCESS to. !!!

And Lubricate, the Speedo, where the drive cable turns the Bushing, ( lube the bushing )

I know, I talk to much--- Sorry, but its raining today, not much else to do.

OK, Do you have a Dremel Tool ??? IF not, good time to buy one. And its a darn handy tool to have. !! ( money well spent for future jobs ) Nope, don't have one. Maybe Santa...

 

With the various grinding tips avialable you should be able to Grind off the Screw Heads !! Slow Tedious, but should be possible. YOur not going to re use them anyway. Grind off heads, and unit should drop right out.

 

Also, check your Cable's going to TCI, See if they are long enough to reach the top position, if you decide to remount it there. Some bikes the cables are long enough, some are not. I had to add wire length to mine. They seem long enough. I'll find out eventually. I'm just going to try to get another TCI and leave the old one as a spare.

 

 

Also, as long as you Have the Left UPPER Fairing Removed. -----

I know you don't want to hear this--- BUT-- Easy Access.

 

The '"Throttle Joint Unit," if you have never serviced it, Open it up and Clean and Lubricate, everything inside there. ( carefull a spring will FLY OUT !! ) Been there, done that. Had to put a short t-cable on when I first got it('cause you told me to check for frayed cables and it was )

 

Also--- this is the PERFECT Time to REPLACE the Throttle Cables !!! About $40.00 bucks for a complete new set of 4 !!! ( as long as the upper fairing is removed )

 

Check the Pull Cable, at the lft Fwd, Carb, if any sign of cable Fraying, Replace the cables. ( Consider the possibility of haveing to replace cables out in Neveda, on highway 50 ) (Been on 50 and 80 and all the others..nobody around for miles sometimes)

 

Also, a good time to RESOLDER, the STUDS on both Ends of the + Battery Cable.

 

Also, there is a MAIN GROUNDING STUD, left of bat, on upper fairing member.

Remove bolt, Clean, and ReSolder All of the Studs, on the Black Ground Wires that are grounded to this Stud. !! ( Again, Easy Access ) I'll see if I can find it.

 

Use CRC 2-26, On EVERY Electrical Connector that you now have Easy ACCESS to. !!! Been doing that...ALOT.

 

And Lubricate, the Speedo, where the drive cable turns the Bushing, ( lube the bushing ) (The PO aparently had some problems with the speedo and he put something on the flange nut and now you can't turn it... looks like body putty.. speedo works for now so I'm leaving it alone)

 

I know, I talk to much--- Sorry, but its raining today, not much else to do.

Can't talk too much about this scoot. It probably should have been parted out but just wanted to see if I could get it to run. It sat for about 8 years near as I can tell from a few of the papers I got with it.

Jeremy... how's it goin Bud? Thanks for the info. Looked at the wires on this thing and they don't look all that bad but I think I'm gonna get some NGK plug ends... can't be that expensive. Anyway, like I told George, I think I'm going to try to get another TCI. I always appreciate your input.. you two have given me so much info and it ain't going to waste:thumbsup2:

I bought some bolt extractors from Craftsman that have saved my bacon a few times on this bike's soft philips head screws. They came in 13 sizes in a small case, looking rather like large nuts but the inside has a steep, tapered spiral, only good for removing frozen bolts and nuts, just toss a socket on them and POP... out comes the screw. Works on rounded out allen heads as well since they grab the outside.

http://i9.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/14/df/84b2_1.JPGCraftsman bolt/nut/stud extractor set

I had the same problem in getting my TCI out so what I did was to use a hacksaw blade and cut the two ears off the TCI and out it came. I then rerouted the wiring to the left and then to the top of the airbox. I put some velcro on the airbox and TCI and have never had another problem with it. Easy to get to now and nice and dry.

You don't need the two ears for mounting to the top of the airbox anyway.

DonB

I had the same problem in getting my TCI out so what I did was to use a hacksaw blade and cut the two ears off the TCI and out it came. I then rerouted the wiring to the left and then to the top of the airbox. I put some velcro on the airbox and TCI and have never had another problem with it. Easy to get to now and nice and dry.

 

You don't need the two ears for mounting to the top of the airbox anyway.

 

DonB

Hey Don, that's a good idea. I have been meaning to move my TCI for several years. I may make this one of my winter projects.

RandyA

Thanks Don... didn't think about sawing off the ears. Guess that's one of the main reasons we come to this site... to fix the cases of BRAIN DEAD now and then:bang head:.

Hi Wayne, I rebuilt my TCI unit with Mike Broods help, sealed the unit up then put it back in its original location. Everyone told me to relocate it on top of the airbox but I've not had any bother with it yet, I think if you seal it up properly it'll be fine where it is, I must admit that it's much easier to get to on top of the airbox, also heat from the engine's no longer an issue on the airbox as is water.

Well, got it all put back together today and went for a ride. Quite an improvement. I suspect the gunk and corrosion in the electrical plugs contributed to much of the problem. Still going to look around for another TCI. Not going to give an arm and leg for one but it looks like time is on my side for now. I had also popped out one of the diaphragms(who invented the spelling on this word anyway?)and they don't look too good either. At 65-70 a pop for 4, they are going to have to wait a little longer. Got the radio amp put in(Thanks Bob) and I have music in the helmet now. Thanks to all that provided help, information and inspiration for this little project. There will be others:pushups: