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Crankcase Vent Tube


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Here's a couple images of how I reworked the crankcase vent tube on my '88VR. I used some leftover 1/2" i.d. thick wall vinyl hose and zip tied it to the frame. Vents out the bottom of the right side frame section. Did my '83 similar way years ago, only routing the hose down the back of the engine and venting out in the centerstand area. No more oil collecting in the airbox, now just spots on the floor.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88

 

76336.jpg 76337.jpg

Edited by Freebird
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Or one could get the crankcase vent filter from Skydoc and not have oil on the floor and not have a hose.

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3767&title=first-gencrankcase-vent-filter-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22

 

Put filter on end of hose he put on. Putting filter in twinkie area puts an oil sheen on motor in that area.

 

Gary

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Ok, where is the 'twinkie area". I just remembered that I have one of Sky_doc's kits. I need to install it.

 

1st picture in 1st post in this thread.

 

You probably won't notice the oil sheen on a stock aluminum color block. It was rather obvious though on the flat black block on Tweety.

 

Gary

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That's some intelligent problem solving. I like it. But one still has to fight with that crankcase ventilation hose between the airbox and twinkie.

 

Ya, how about some more details as parts to get and how you did that GaryZ. I want to do that to mine..

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Here's a couple images of how I reworked the crankcase vent tube on my '88VR. I used some leftover 1/2" i.d. thick wall vinyl hose and zip tied it to the frame. Vents out the bottom of the right side frame section. Did my '83 similar way years ago, only routing the hose down the back of the engine and venting out in the centerstand area. No more oil collecting in the airbox, now just spots on the floor.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88

 

I like your arrangement and if cut at an appropriate angle where it vents underneath, and it has air moving past the cut, you then have positive crankcase ventilation. That is why you get an occassional drip underneath. Unlike the other mods so far on this thread, yours works and theirs does not. But I think yours would be much more attractive it you were to use black hose.

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I agree on the black hose concept, however, a clear or semi-clear hose will show changing conditions inside the hose, however helpful that might be. Regarding the angle of the end cut, I'm not sure what angle to use, a forward slope or rearward, and how much, or maybe just a flush cut..............?

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88VR

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I agree on the black hose concept, however, a clear or semi-clear hose will show changing conditions inside the hose, however helpful that might be. Regarding the angle of the end cut, I'm not sure what angle to use, a forward slope or rearward, and how much, or maybe just a flush cut..............?

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88VR

 

Pete, We old timers remember when a metal pipe vent about 1" in ID; was the factory method of removing harmful (corrosive and atmosphere contaminants) vapors that build up inside crankcases. This pipe, for a lack of a better description ran from the top of the motor (block or valve cover) to a location under the motor and low enough to have air flow past the bottom. The bottom of the vent was cut at about a 45 degree angle with the lower point being towards the front of the automobile. As air rushed by the vent a vacuum was created at the bottom opening sucking the vapors out of the crankcase. I think you could google early 50 or 60 crankcase ventilation systems to find an illustration. All internal combustion engines need some kind of a system to vent the crankcase. It was air emission requirements that made the early systems illegal and the industry had to develop systems that routed crankcase vapors thru the combustion chambers to burn them. But the early systems worked really well.

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