Max
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Posts posted by Max
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I'm surprised at BMW, the brand that used to be synonymous with reliability and satisfaction.
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Yep, had a loose dash last year to the point were it was flopping like it was ready to fall off and made a heck of a racket. I think the rubber grommets dry and shrink / breakdown. Someone here suggested adding washers. I added thick SS washers to each side of all the grommets pre season. That totally tightened up dash flop and eliminated most of the rough road bounce racket from the front end. Close to 10,000 mi. and still holding.
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Yep, ditto Bob on that. Deka is the way to go. Don't quote me, but I think it's the '18L'.
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Love those 70-75* touring days.
I hope tropical storm Erika fizzles out before hitting the mainland. Sure has caused some major torrential rain damage in Dominca.
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I'm wandering into really unpleasant discomfort territory here. Loving the bike, hating the heat.
Oh BB you'd love it up here. Just got off the boat ferry at Port aux Basque Newfoundland about 1 1/2 hrs ago to 58f, with a stiff wind out of the S/E and raining. It's going to be a long tour.
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First full time job fresh out of college in 71' and into the Navy Reserve at HMCS York for 6 months training. After training, decision time, commit by contract for 5 years off to Halifax, or stay with my sweetheart..... made the right decision, we got married 2 years later and we're (yeah,same girl) still passionate about riding around the continent where ever the ol' 87 takes us.
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Lookin' good !
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Actually, we're an oil exporting nation so the exchange rate doesn't come into play so much on fuel.
Although, I can't understand why our fuel is so frikin' high being an oil exporting nation.
Well, except for the Tories and provinces rediculously tax rates on fuel....
True that brother...
my reference was more or less for Canucks like myself that travel mostly south forking out 25% exchange & 1.5-3¢ bank fee on the Cdn buck. Comin' & go'in.
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At $1.13/Liter...works out to $4.27/U.S. gallon. In U.S. $ that works out to about $3.25/U.S. gallon. And for us....that is a cheap price for gas. Price per liter has ranged from $1.06 to $1.19...or about $0.50 swing per U.S. gallon. To fill the bike from near empty - 19 liters.... works out to about $21 CDN at $1.13 (current price in Kitchener)
(3.785411784 liters/U.S. gallon)
BTW....when is the U.S. going to adopt the International metric system? Gets confusing for us when we have to deal with liters, Imperial gallons, and U.S. gallons.
and then there's that bonus 25% exchange rate (and dropping) travelling on the other side .. ( ¢76 on the loon this AM )
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Don't feel bad, gas has dropped to 1.03 cdn / ltr up here .... equivalent to about 5 bucks a US gallon ... feels good.
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glad your all ok !
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closure for one happy camper (for now)
A heads up for anyone that might be having the same issue.
Installed new seals and washers a few days ago, put a couple hundred miles on them, no leaks so far. I was probably lucky there wasn't further damage to tube riding surfaces.
I'm convinced the seal was damaged from crud that dropped from the rusted seal washer. It would have been a matter of time for the right side to fail.
The c clip that holds the washer in place was also beginning to rust. The indentation around the tube that the c clips into also had slight aluminum corrosion. Jeez, another routine check to add to the growing annual checklist.
I like Marcarl's suggestion of a an application of FluidFilm on the washers, probably would have prevented this grief in the first place.
The washer in the pic was cleaned up before deciding to install new ones. Attached a before & after c clip outer tube groove. Final fork assembly cleaned up nicely.
St John's Newfoundland/Labrador, we're finally on our way !!
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The outside looks pretty bad, but that comes from sitting outside down here in Fla. any ideas what and how to clean with?
We had a trailer a few years ago, used a liquid spray product called 'Black Streak Remover'. Worked good on older metal & vinyl sided trailers for road grime and streaks. Made in USA by CamcoRV.
Long term, it didn't appear to break down or fade paint.
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At the NY international, our attendance was around 90 people give or take a few....never could get a really good count with everyone milling around...there is a group pic of all the bikes in front of PIONEER milling around somewhere..
partial parking lot shot ..
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How much do i put in tank for a good strong clean? Half can? Full can?
Half way on any major tour I'll add a full can to 3/4 tank, run it hard for 50ish miles and let it simmer overnight. Seems to keep things running.
Other than very minor carb sync tweaks once a year, haven't had to touch the engine for a few years.
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This outfit claims to have the washers.
Let us know if they do, in fact.
Mighty pricey ($19+) for a lousy washer.
$38 for a pair of steel washers ... add tax, exchange & shipping ... well, a little much.
Skydoc was prepared to send me a pair, but the cost of a new sheet of SS, fabrication, $ exchange and shipping to house had costs adding up.
I lucked out with a local metal fab shop. They had a SS pipe that matched the measurements of original washers. They cut me a pair for $15 cash. No brainer.
Just received notification (+10 days) the shop I deal with in Hamilton received my seals and shipping to house will take another 5 days via Canada Post.
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This thread by Freebird was great help first time I rebuilt mine.
A ton of good info via 'search' tool. Good luck.
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?496-Fork-Seal-Replacement
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You ever hear of a brake fluid well or farm? They're all synthetic.
Never heard of either till now. Thanks for the info.
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I seem to remember something about the DOT 5 will hurt the rubber parts on our bikes. Look thru the second gen tech section and maybe search brake fluid or DOT4
as you suggested djh3, did a dot4 search and couldn't come up with a dot4 & dot4 synth compatibility answer.
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I currently use regular dot4 brake fluid and need to know if it's ok to top up reservoir with dot4 synth. The container states ok to mix with dot 3 & dot 4.
A quick check on the weeb says - a) don't do it, b) it's ok, c) why would you mix them ?, d) ok to mix with 3,4 & 5.1, e) if you mix both types of 4 you end up with dot8 harhar,
and last, all dot 3,4, & 5.1 are already synthetic. The last one threw me.
My reasoning for c), this was first time I couldn't find regular DOT4 at my go to store.
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I was wondering what people do with those little bags that hang off the trunk when you're touring? Not sure what they are called even.
Do you leave them on? Are you concerned/unconcerned about theft? I work with criminals and maybe I'm too untrusting of people. I know its not a huge issue but I am curious about this.
I guess I also wonder if you leave your GPS bracket [GPS removed] etc on the handlebar in the hotel lot?
No question, out of eyeshot, GPS & bracket comes off. Suction cup system takes 5 secs to remove.
Let me tell ya RD, those little bags come in very handy when your on a 5 - 10K mile tour 4-8 weeks, with 2 up, every cubic inch counts.
We use them for on board non valuables - sunscreen,ziplocks,detergent,straps,kickstand plate,etc, basically, she crams them with anything that's easy to replace in case of theft.
I replaced the intercom module on the left side with a 4th pouch. The mounting holes align made for an easy conversion.
Not really concerned about theft, who would snipe anything (to quote the Great White) that fugly??
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Prob not what you want to hear, but in my experience 9 times out of ten fork seals fail prematurely do to a defect in the fork sliders.
Rust pit, rock chip, etc. that's why I like fork gaiters. Can't stand the look though so I usually buy/make a "stone deflector" like you see in some modern bikes:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]100614[/ATTACH]
Im actually a big fan of those as they protect the runnig area of the seal.
Pressure in "air forks" doesn't help either. As you "air up" the seals get a death grip on the sliders and this usually also accelerates wear. I usually prefer to set up forks with preload and oil levels/weights. But air sure is handy and fast for diff loads.
However, if yours has been running in an oil/grit environment, that will also kill seals in short order. When you take it aparts, inspect the seal running area for grooves and scratches from the rust action.
i know lots of guys with older hacks that just rebuild thier forks every couple years rather than buy new tubes....
Ran fine nylon mesh around fork running area and checked for any damage, looks ok so far. Threw in a set of progressives a couple of years ago and with 2 up,
as you said, "I usually prefer to set up forks with preload and oil levels/weights."
The gators in the pic actually don't look that bad.
Waiting for parts mid summer is like .. wellll.
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Before putting the dust seal back on, squirt a wee bit of Fluid Film onto the washer, should stop any future rusting and will not hurt any of the components.
So whereabouts are you in Ontario,, maybe get you some company if desired.
In hindsight that would have prevented the rusting. I'll apply FF during re-assembly ..... waiting for 'parts' in July..80F..blue sky.. arrggghhh
Peterborough is a little too far for the Wednesday Brantford tour.
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Hey Max,
Sorry to hear about your problem. I was wondering if you replaced the Dust Seal on the side you are having problems with as well as the "Metal Slide 1" which keeps the upper fork tube from deforming the fork seal. The reason I am asking is that the only way moisture can get to the upper washer is if the clearance between the upper fork tube and the dust seal are too great. If you are willing to send me a drawing of the washers you need with OD, ID, and thickness, I can manufacture a set of washers out of Stainless Steel that should solve your problem for good.
Earl
Earl, appreciate the offer, I'll take you up on it. I don't have a micrometer, but a quick check with a metric tape shows all dimensions bang on MM's.
Rethinking the moisture thing, all 3 vr's (2 parts) are having the same issue with rusting washers. (not as severe as the one that leaks)
I replaced the Dust Seals on prime vr with new OEM's 2 years ago. Quite a chore to remove weather seal yesterday and tight as it could have been.
I'm starting to think of the possibility of winter semi-heated garage storage and possibility of condensation forming between Dust Seal and upper fork tube ?
Anyhoo, I'll get a schematic with dimensions to you in the AM.
sent to your email 14/07 8AM.
Loose Dash
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Posted
pretty sure this thread that got me thru the mod.