Max
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Posts posted by Max
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Studying the manual, it occured to me there's a couple of obvious steps I may have overlooked.
Carb schematic 5-2, should the pilot screws (10) and /or Pilot air jet #2 (5) be removed to clean it's ports ? If they can be removed, are there precautions to take?
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Mornin' all. Bike fired up ok, very slight improvement again day 2. First 10 seconds rpm up and down chasing rpms with choke lever to maintain 1000 rpm idle, only then can feather choke down to maintain irregular idle around 1000-1500 rpm. Choke is slightly on to prevent stall. Throttle response is minimal.
Turned pilot screws out 4 full turns. Set idle screw to approx 1000 rpm. At this point, it will idle, but rough, around 1000 rpm, without choke, and can use throttle to rev engine, however the revs lag behind throttle response.
Engine was at full temp and idling slightly rough at 1000 rpm without choke before shutting off.
Patch, after reading all threads, I understand why compression results. Unfortunately I have no access or connections to a compression gauge.
I will replace spark plugs later today with known good ones, nothing to lose ?
'SeaFoam is a maintenance product, according to seafoam and for what you are attempting the ratio is 50/50' I have added 1.5 cans to approximately 3 US gallons. I have an extra can if necessary.
'Now in your case with plugged idle jets, do what you need to do with the choke to keep it running, the seafoam can do nothing if it is not flowing thru the carbs, You will want the choke set as far open as you can and still keep it running so that it is using the idle circuit as much as possible to try to get it cleaned out. Run it till fully heated up and let sit over night, keep repeating this until it starts to clean its self out. If after a week it is not getting better then it probably means that one or more jets are completely plugged and the seafoam is not able to get in there, in which case the only thing that will clean it out is to remove and manually clean them out.' I will try this for a week. (fortunately the 87' twin runs flawless for a general benchmark comparison)
Sorry, that was a spare speedometer case reused for this project that was in the image just to confuse the issues
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Past 24 hrs : Was going to start an apprentice carb thread but after searching and researching forum carb threads, came across this gem https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?141445-87-VR-carb-problem&highlight=jets . All I can say is Wow!.... Hope to understand half of what I've just read and might just get thru this carb thing. I'll continue here with my layman questions. Not ready to tap out just yet.
So, yesterday I removed sliders again and doused all visible ports and surfaces carefully with Gunk carb cleaner. I'm not sure about the purge jet port with the tiny O ring, assuming it's probably cleaned thru. Applied light compressed air to all afterward.
Today: Pilot screws were turned out close if not exactly 2 turns. Added a full can of Seafoam. 1-4 fuel levels measured as best as could given clear plastic tubing and measuring tape to center mark : 17,15,17,16 mm to a warmed static engine, won't run steady long enough to take fuel measurements while idling. Fired up and noticeable steadier idle but requires choke and will either stall or rpms run away eventually. Also first time for slight throttle response. Things are heading the right way. This afternoon will swap spark plugs from the 87' sister as she is at 100% virus free and wait 24 hours for additional Seafoam to do it's best. Any suggestions (other than benching carbs
) at this point are more than welcome. -
Completed original task resealing stator case and wires. Ran into a few glitches after reassembly.
Class EI error code. Resolved by resoldering all main connector pins. (thanks for write-up Freebird) There were no visual cracks or loose solder joints to the eye.
Compressor manual and auto functions now operational to both front and rear.
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Last year I removed speedo/odometer from this project 87' to replace a defect unit on the prime day use 87'. (stripped nylon gear in the housing)
Fortunately I have a complete 89' parts bike to steal from, which as it turns out is a US bike with a MPH readout. No problem.
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CPU self check showed gas level and headlight icon warning. Actual headlight low and high beam appeared to work normally. Replaced bulb on spec and warning light out.
Drained gas and removed sender unit assembly. The float arm was binding a bit and housing slightly corroded. Cleaned unit thoroughly with wd40 cleared that up.
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Removed as much oil as possible on wires and sealed with 650°f silicone inside and out. The burned clear coat is noticeable, left it as is
for now and will give it all a good once over after the last issue with the carbs is resolved.
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Appreciate all the prompt responses. Path of least resistance calls for the full can of Seafoam. If that doesn't work, and it will, time to roll up the sleeves and follow through with posted suggestions. Will update.
Used the last few ounces of Seafoam for this application. Heard the provincial gov't is opening all hardware stores to indoor shopping this Saturday. That's a sign of some progress. Heading over to C.T. Sunday and stock up on the Foam.
Where are you located? I might be of help.Brantford to Peterborough is at best a 2.5 hour run. That would have been cool to connect. I could use the help, and surely be asking for it in the near future.
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Checking the last post in the thread, this project has been on the shelf since Jan 2017. Picked up the pieces about 5 weeks ago. (thanks Covid isolation) Resolved all but one issue as follows after bike was reassembled. It ran fine pre-project, that was 3 years ago.
Today, turn ignition on, fuel pump sounds normal, CPU cycles thru self check no errors, neutral light ok, apply choke and it fires up like a champ. At this point it won't idle properly, when choke is slowly removed it will eventually stall. Restarts ok with choke and rpms runaway, when choke is feathered back slowly, it will idle fine for minutes but the choke is still in play. As the engine heats to temperature the choke must be on slightly or it will stall. During any of this process if the throttle is twisted at all, the engine stalls immediately. All cylinders appear to be firing and runs smooth throughout. There is very little to no backfiring during the whole process. Here's what I've checked to date:
Drained old gas, added fresh gas and a few ozs of Seafoam. Checked spark on all plugs. Checked carb linkages. Good fuel flow thru gas filter. Checked carb throat and slides through air filter compartment. All diaphragms intact and slide assemblies appear ok. Throttle and throttle linkages feel and look normal. Idle at thumbscrew adjustment appears ok. Haven't touched any carb adjustment screws or jets.
Not sure what to poke or prod next, hoping I missed something obvious ... any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated !
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A few issues with the ol 87' earlier this season finally ironed out. Good riding past couple of weeks. Nice lookin 'VR' cap ...
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Finally got the ol' scoot out of the garage for a few day tours, today being the furthest from home. She's been plagued with issues this summer, mostly minor, but enough to keep it in lockdown. Some of the issues started when the odometer-speedo stopped working. The nylon gear behind the speedo dial was stripped and the end of the speedo cable insert snapped off. Fortunately the spare part 87' had a good working speedo cluster and cable replacement. Then the fork seals started leaking, had fresh spares to replace. 3 weeks ago had an intermittent clutch issue with various symptoms, that was a head scratcher. The blond finally gave up an hour from home. (CAA/AAA rocks) Not mechanically familiar with this clutch, read every 1st gen clutch post on this forum. As recommended, cleaned clutch lever relay assembly and flushed hydraulic fluid. Problem solved. Biggest grin to date. Got to the point, in frustration, we were talking exchanging the 87' and 2 spares for a big blue 2020 SVTC ... and that may still happen. 400 miles later and all is good.
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the female connector in last image looks very corroded which might not be the cause of signal issue, but wouldn't hurt to give it a good cleaning on the off chance.
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Happy bike happy life.
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'Merry Christmas' is alive and well around these parts this year more than many past years. We kinda like it.
You might be onto something there Bobny.
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Anyone know what the MK2 luggage capacities are? Searched manuals, vr.org & google no luck.
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Anyone know MK2 luggage capacities. Searched manuals, vr.org & google no luck. Comparing capacities to the 2018 wing. (110L)
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Thanks for the offer Max, i have my 83' in pretty complete condition now,i was able to scavenge many of the little bits and pieces that were missing from my 84' donor. The only thing i would like in the future are the big upper front pieces in good condition without any cracks because mine are kinda busted up but they still look alright. I know most driveline stuff doesn't go between our bikes but let me know if you need any bits and pieces, i may be able to help you out too
Actually now that i think of it Max, if you ever get that 89' to the point that you are willing to let go of the whole front end (fork,wheel,rotors)
I'd definately be interested so i can do a R6 brake caliper upgrade
There are subtle differences between the 87 & 89, ie the 87 antidive faces forward and the 89 sideways.
Without looking at a catalogue I have no idea what's compatible between MK1 & 2. Let me know what you need Grez. The 89 is generally in rough shape but good for donations. Check your pm.
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Hey Max, do you still have that blonde parts bike?
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I have an 87' blond parts and an 89' burgundy parts bike. Currently restoring the 87 and using the 89 for a few parts. I might have a something you need. send me a pm.
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Another piece of bling that I've seen and don't see in the catalog are stone guard grids that fit over the turn signal lights and the head light. Might have been made by Kyryakyn(sp) or Custom Chrome... Chrome Werks??? Anyway they looked cool but could never find a set that had already found a home and wasn't leaving... :-)
These must be the turn signal stone guards your referring to. They came with an 87' parts bike I picked up a few years ago.
Interesting that they made a headlight guard. No idea where the previous owner picked them up.
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I would like a new windshield for my 83. When looking at used ones are the mk1 and mk2 different in any way or can I use any first gen?
I also found these https://www.ceebaileys.com/yamaha-XVZ-1200-/-1300-Venture-1983-1993-windshield
Does anybody have experience with these, they seem to be a nice product for a decent price
I ordered that specific windshield, 22" tall, in 2012. A solid product. Good people to deal with. Had an issue installing shield (my problem). They were right on the phone to help out. Shipping was $38.00/US at the time.
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Sorry Yamaha. No V-4, No shaft drive, No water cooling. No thanks, No purchase.
Mike
Big fail Yamaha ... can't wait another year.
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Hey Max,
When you say you ran NM, AR, and CA, do you mean Arizona, or Arkansas? Just a note, us folks who live in Arkansas (AR), and the folks that live in Arizona (AZ), on a consistent basis have to deal with our mail being routed to the wrong state because folks get the AR, AZ wrong. LOL. It kinda drives us nuts. And, in Arkansas, we have the added frustration that our mail gets mixed up with peoples mail in Alaska (AK). LOL!
Sorry for the confusion BigLenny, it usually has a way of following me around lol. That correction should read Arizona (AZ). Which btw was one part of our more memorable 2 day tours including Grand Canyon.
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4. Credit Card with a high credit limit so I can buy a new bike when "Walt" catches fire in the heat of a Arizona summer.
Seriously though, any feedback and insight is much appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Wife and I ran NM,AR,CA. a few years back, and ya, it was hhhot.
If I could add to the long list, our bacon saver was white long sleeve lycra breathable shirts with light full finger gloves and velcro strips holding them together at the wrist. Also piled SPF60 on the face. Anything to avoid the burn. (still managed heat exhaustion 3 times)Next time we would do XV1100 suggestion using cooling jackets.
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Welcome Homi. Good lookin bike, blondz have more fun.
If your still looking for pegs, Id recommend Kuryakyn longhorn offsets. Picked up a set 5 years ago and they've worked out well. I've heard they can rust prematurely, but with an occasional buff, haven't had issues to date.
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15 days till spring. (on the calendar) Like most years it will be 1/2 year later in Newfoundland.
We toured The Rock in 2015 last week of August and first week of September from Port au Basque-St Johns and return to PortBasque. That is one beautiful island you have there. From what I heard, man, did we luck out with some fine weather. Apparently it can snow in some areas in the summer? We only had a couple of really cool days in the 2 weeks. Hopefully you catch some of that global warming that seems to be working its way around the rest of the country.
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Happy to hear they fixed your dad's receiver. Mine got treated to some well placed .40 S&W rounds before going to the landfill. My new Yamaha 7810 is a nice unit that is better suited to the tasks asked of modern info-tainment systems. I Love the networking features along with the internet radio functions. The Dolby Atmos feature adds a whole new 3D dimension to movie soundtracks so encoded, my setup is 5.1.2 once I get some speaker stands for my new surround speakers it should sound even better.
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Lol, glad you found good use for your receiver in the end.
Picked up a Sony STRDH130 for dad the day after dropping off the Onk as he's in a home and needs his cassette player don'cha know. He's quite happy with the Sony. So, I inherited the Onk and will put it to good use till it dies.
You picked up a quite the system, hope you have better luck with it.
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A couple of weeks ago dad's 5 year old Onkyo TX-8050 receiver audio stopped working. I took it to an Onkyo service centre to determine if the repair cost outweighs the cost of the receiver. Surprisingly I was told that Onkyo has a no charge 'one time out of warranty repair program' that may apply to some of their customers (whatever that means) and will get back to me. I've been waiting a week for they're response. Point being, you never know, nothing to lose, it might be worth while to take your Onkyo in to see if they'll apply the 'one time' repair.I don't think Onkyo will be getting anymore of my $$ ! Mine had been in for repair twice already !! Poor QC and customer service.
follow up : got a pleasant call from the Onk service center yesterday, they repaired receiver under their one time out of warranty program,, thank you very much!
Would I buy another one?, nope, IMO a good quality receiver shouldn't crap out after 5 years for no reason.
) at this point are more than welcome.
. Point being, you never know, nothing to lose, it might be worth while to take your Onkyo in to see if they'll apply the 'one time' repair.
87 stator/crank cover stripped screw
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
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Swapped spark plugs, no noticeable difference.. Patch, should I top up gas tank with untreated fuel to lean out Seafoam?
Time to get some serious carb cleaner before proceeding further with cleaning. The only online source found for C.B. was Performance Lubricants in Whitby, about an hour run. Did you find CB in a retail automotive outlet? The pucster had a few suggestions. I have a good rapport with our GM dealer maybe drop in there this week see what they recommend. Also hit up Napa and Carquest this week as they might have a heavy duty carb cleaner.
The 2 aerosol cleaners I've been using are Gunk carb parts cleaner & Gunk Carb Medic carb cleaner.