jasonm.

Since my 87 has gone to the grave yard . I have some shims I can donate. Any particular sizes you need ?

I took an early ride. With 1 oz. The imbalance is no better and somewhat worse the more I go past the trigger speed. Previously it would get to a point of too fast to be perceived as bad. In my case this was a dream for my front tire but had to try. I have a spare wheel and will be getting a new tire, NOT DLOP. Maybe I am a minority. I stated this many years ago- I believe the beads act as a damper creating their own force , the imbalance not truly being corrected . With my original wheel, Counteract suggested I use 2oz. because spin balancer said 1.5oz. Now with 2oz. it's poor at Montana , W.Va. speeds . I am likely removing the beads. Cannot ride with a speed governor on the bike.

I have owned the same Venture Royale for more than 30 years. Approx. 28 years ago I did all of this delinking in 1 week. One of the 1st things was delinking the brakes. It's a simple volumetric law. You running 2 calipers instead of One . You must use a larger master for proper feel and power. I got new early 90's FZR1000. Bore is at least 16mm. Plus ON 1300's the left and right calipers are different bores, and I got calipers from and 90 FJ1200 to make things equal. But they needed to be shimmed(washered) for perfect alignment to the rotors. Put in HH pads.The brakes are more powerful & controllable. Lastly I put SS lines on. With all my mods to suspension , brakes , engine and more. I ride with Ducati and other sport riders...they envy me. It's the best 800# sport bike out there. No chicken strips on my tires. Presently have 113k miles on it...dynos at 93hp.

I put in "counteract" beads tonight and removed the weights as recommended. Counteract, which are glass pellets that look significantly smaller than your video or picture you show(cowpuc) . Counteract virtually same as "GlassBeads" for sand blasting. These are extremely tiny, and putting thru the air valve was not difficult....simply tap, tap the rim next to the air valve with a 1/4" id hose , the bottle attached to hose. Yes it took me minutes to do it. When I test in the morning I hope the bike rides better that it has in years. This is the 2nd front tire on this bike to show have this issue. Yes it's the rim that is most of the imbalance. This is proved because the weights end up in the same spot, give or take and inch, every time. The wheel bearings are new. Thus I have eliminated worn replaceable items that might be the cause. Also feeling of imbalance is a thing mostly felt in the front. Rear tire suspension has the ability to soak up imbalance more. FYI- R1 runs on radials tires. Far better made than the bias ply type, I ,we are running on. I will let you know how things go. Thank you.

I have owned the same Venture Royale for more than 30 years. Approx. 28 years ago I did all of this delinking in 1 week. One of the 1st things was delinking the brakes. It's a simple volumetric law. You running 2 calipers instead of One . You must use a larger master for proper feel and power. I got new early 90's FZR1000. Bore is at least 16mm. Plus ON 1300's the left and right calipers are different bores, and I got calipers from and 90 FJ1200 to make things equal. But they needed to be shimmed(washered) for perfect alignment to the rotors. Put in HH pads.The brakes are more powerful & controllable. Lastly I put SS lines on. With all my mods to suspension , brakes , engine and more. I ride with Ducati and other sport riders...they envy me. It's the best 800# sport bike out there. No chicken strips on my tires...

I find this funny that some people don't go " that fast", aka go over the speed limit. Sometimes you need to gas it for whatever reason. A few states have 75mph speed limits or more. So a tire that , especially the front feeling out of balance at 80 is an issue. I just put the counteract beads in tonight due to an 80+mph issue. I will see if it corrects it in the morning. Yes it was spin balanced repeatedly. It's a dunlop, Dunlop won't help because you ain't supposed to go that fast ...even with a tire rated for 130mph. This is my last DLOP. ..........FYI- beads will not correct a lateral weight issue, aka left-right.

you are saying this should work for my needs using only one 1 oz. bag as they say on the site for my 120 front tire ? I bought 2 - 1 oz. bags

My tire has been spun balanced has 1.5oz. on it, but when doing fast highway passing I get an imbalance , aka VIBE at 85mph. This is a Dunlop E3. Yes , the tire is round. Just obviously not perfect in every way. I got Counteract and I am about to install "counteract" in my front tire and remove the weights. Reply if anyone can truly confirm this will counteract the vibes...do you go fast enough to confirm ? FYI- I don't always travel at these speeds, but It's helpful if this "COUNTERACT" is a cure. Their site says only need only 1oz. of their stuff for the 120 front tire.

I have done the wire jumpers. Works great . The pics etc were helpful. But why did you remove the instruments the "hard way" ? Yamaha made this bike easy to service. I got my instruments out in less than 10 minutes. (1) remove windshield, (2) remove headlight, then LOOK there are 2 bolts, 1 left and 1 right of the wiring cluster and instruments. Any size hands can do this. Just need a 1/4" drive 10" extension and 10mm socket and a good light. To reinstall put a nut inside the socket to push the bolt out to catch the threads and possibly use a magnet touching socket to steady things. Cheers

Because I wired my 4 LED driving lights to the head light harness 2- 10w to low(20 watts) beam power wire ,& 2-10w to high(20 watts)... ..I never got headlamp out. Just the warning "headlamp issue red led indicator" + LCD symbol. You say jumper the reed switches. " Eliminate by shorting so they never open ? Reed switches where ever they exist ...wish I knew. I have spare instrument panel. Hope the reed switch is easy to find there?

Got my LED from superbrights. I rewired RLU wires because the load resistor causes a slight pulse at idle and requires 2000 rpm to get full brightness. SAD TO SAY -- bypass of RLU not working for my '87 Royale. FYI- there is no green/white...it's green/red shown stated later post. Did exactly as described. My warning indicator still pop up for headlamp. I have 30+ years working on electronics stuff... I guess- will put it back to stock and use load resistor.

Plus i always have used synthetic gear oil. Usually mobil1 75/140

there is a "dust hub seal" around the splines of the wheel. 1J7-25319-01-00. If this is bad you will lose grease. Every tire change my splines a still greasy. I use Sta-lube synthetic Caliper/brake grease , has moly, graphite and teflon + other friction inhibitors. My splines are good after 30 years and 100k miles. I talked to Bob, he said the "rear drives" run hot. Yes some do and others don't. My original did run hot since day one, enough to scare you when changing the gear oil or possibly burn your hand just touching the drive assy.. ...but at 90k there was slight slop in ring vs. pinion gears. So I got a low mileage replacement. . The replacement does NOT run hot at all .

getting in on this late. You can remove some seat foam yourself if you have the tools. A sanding disc on a cordless drill. The seat cover is just stapled. So you need a good electric stapler to shoot 1/4" depth staples. The driver section is NOT very deep. So maybe the Gel pads you can buy could be used rather that the stock foam. FYI it's a somewhat messy job. Wear a dust mask.