GolfVenture

A Friend passed me this... I've not tried it... “Machinist’s Workshop” recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for break out “torque” on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used ……………………516 foot pounds WD-40 ………………… ……..238 foot pounds PB Blaster …………………….214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench ………………….127 foot pounds Kano Kroil …………………….106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix…………………. 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a “home brew” mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this “home brew” released bolts better than anycommercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid. This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters

Thank you all for your honest opinions..

I would like your opinion...This Extimated related... Having a building site cleared for a shop of about 30 X 50. The following is the estimate: Scope of work Includes: 1-Falling & limbing approximately 20 trees. 2-Removing all stumps and backfilling holes 3-Export and dispose of stumps and branches from down trees. 4-Remove organic material from approximately 15' outside of shop footprint of 30 ft by 50 ft and as needed for approach and tye-in to exiting driveway. 5- Spoils are to be spread out on low side of clearing site. Option #1 Includes all of the above and stacking logs in designated stockpile area as discussed all for $3400.00 Option #2 Same as option #1 except he hauls the logs away all for $2800.00 1-He did not expect so many large rocks which increased his time. However he did see large rocks about 100 ft from the clearing site that are about the same size. 2-He piled all the large rocks in a pile that was not included in the bid. But I did not ask for. 3-He said that he did more than tye-in to the existing driveway. He said he actually leveled and smooth out about 1/3 of the clearing. But I did not ask for this... 4-He said that he grosely under estimated the bid. 5-He did not come out directly but is hinting that I might consider the extra he did and is appeal to my good side for any extra compensation. He did not come out with any specific amount but is hinting. NOw I've been trying to get other bids but no one would come out. This guy came for he is very close to me. I've talk to some friends that are home remodler and told me to take the bid for the bid is very very reasonable low. So I do have a limited budget, and he seems to be a very honest and truthful person. He is young and has a family. I do like the guy. But it seems that when every I get a bid and the job gets done much quicker the contractor is smiling ear to ear all the way to the bank. Then if I pay by the hour the guy works somewhat slow. What would you do? And if you gave him extra how much more would you give him in Percent? 5%, 10%, 15%, 25%, 50%.....more?

Thank You All. Resync is the next step I will be helping him with my carb tune...

My friend thought he was adjusting his carb idle with this screw. I showed him that the carb idle was a fairly large round with ridges for the fingers to be able to turn. This screw he adjusted is a bit up and back-in and fits a flat head. When I pull/push on the screw/linkage on my spare carb it seems to move all the butterflys at the same time. I need to know how it impacts the functioning of the carb, and how to reset it propertly. The picture is taken from the left side and the screw is about center of the photo. Thank You for your help...

I use the Condor method of reverse bleeding the clutch. One Baby Nasal Aspirator ($5.00). Remove the bleeder. Cut the end off so it fits nicely inside the hole with a good firm seal. Remove some of the old fluid from the resorvior by the handle bar with the Aspirator. Empty and Fill the Aspirator with new fluid and place in the hole and firmly but slowly squeeze the Apirator. If there is air in the line you will hear the bubble noise being pushed up and out. Watch the Resorvior that it does not over flow. Repeat as needed. Works every time.[h=1][/h]

Anyone have a good inexpensive solution to getting rid of the early smell from a car's air conditioner?

Does anyone know the where abouts of a coupon for a Clearview Shield? I was on their site and there is a place to enter a coupon code.

I also have an 89 and had the similar "e1 e4 codes so I can't put air in the system." I had to take the air compressor controler out from the right fairing cover and take it apart to the circuit board. Take jewelers eye glass magnifier and look for hair line cracks in the solider. Took a hot soilder iron and touch each of the questionable solider for a short time until I could see the solider liquify. Put it all back together and bingo that fixed it. This is the solution that many here does to fix that. Also when I have a fix to do I first start off by initiating a new Thread Subject. Like "E1 E4 Air Compressor" hit enter and it will give you a msg that you need more than 3 characters even tho you put more than 3 characters. Just ignore that. What it does return are several other related threads created by other member. I read the initiators post to see if it is similar to my issue. Usually I'm, able to find a related thread. If after investigating the threads and still do not find a solution I then go to the 1st Gen Technical board. When all that fails, I then start a new thread for each of my issues. I went and initiated a new thread for "Error Compressor" It returned several related threads. One is this "E4 error message on compressor", and it got several responses. One response actually give a link to an internal, fix step by step with great pictures. So if the returns does not seem to help, try changing the title of the new threads. Just about anything you will encounter on your 89 VR someone knows how to fix it.

That name datelmeters sounds really familiar. tks.

Ya, I installed one like that on my 91 VR. but Idon't know where I ordered it. When you have time could you find the company.

I think I meant volt. For I want to see that I'm not consuming more volts than the alternator is recharging. Digital, Square but probably more retangular. I didn't think about marine gauage. Like to know both the cost of a marine or non marine for I'm a fair weather rider.

I want to install an amp meter on a 1st Gen. Anyone have a good suggestion on one and where to install it?

Swapped out the carbs with my wrecked 91 VR unto my 89 VR. Afer sitting for about 3 years due to carbs overflowing fuel out the overflow. Took 3 attempts at the starter and she kicked right over. Ran a bit ruff for a while but she purrs now. Thanks for all the advise everyone gave me.

A friend gave me a new box of S100 Total Cycle Cleaner. I went on line to find more info in it at http://www.S100.com. Sound good, but could not find what it cost nor any price of its other product line. So I looked here and found some a posting back in 2006. The posting comments is that it is so so and that a hand wash is better. If anyone is using it, has the product improved in 9 years?

Back in 2012 while I was away for the summer recovering from my M/C accident, my place got hit by lighting. Took out a lot of electricial items. It took a while to check all the appliances but the battery maintainer and the battery died The insurance cover everything I asked for including a new AGM battery. Well in the 2.5 years the new AGM battery never got used but I had it on the new maintainer all this time. Finally got my 89 VR carbs fixed and the AGM battery could barely turn the engine over even after a 24 hour charge. I had the origional battery from my wrecked 91 VR on the maintainer also and it fires the 89VR quickly. I bought the AGM from O'Reilys, took the receipt and they said that the battery warantee is only for 12 months. The battery cost $100. I know that AGMs are liked in this group. Besides possibly a bad battery any thoughts?

http://www.wggb.com/2015/04/07/who-makes-the-most-reliable-motorcycle/

Does installing a K&N air filter require any slight carb setting adjustment?

I would like to put a vent in my shield. Anyone know where and how one can do this without paying $310.00 for one from Clearview Shields?

In 2010 I paid $2500.00 for my 89VR and it had just under 24k miles and in really nice condition...You can see it on my profile...I think it is under the album 1st Trip After 27 Years...Just Don't get it confused with 91 VR for it had 6500 miles and was in mint condition until I wrecked it.

I must be pretty good at doing the impossible, for I had no problems installing the carbs reversed. The throttle worked backwards just great...:-)

Got my 89 VR back together with the carbs from my 91 VR last night ... choked it and it runs... finally after nearly 3 years since my wrecked...I've been agonizing over pulling the carbs for I was told that the left fairing had to be dismantled to get the carbs off...And I just wasn't up to it...It was probably a good thing for my left hand, after 4 surguries, probably wasn't really up to it the 1st 2 years... I have a few minor things like putting a new front left caliper on for one of the main bolts stripped out the receiving threads. Tighten some of the hanging accessories...And I will be "Back In The Saddle Again".. Sky_doc sent me a procedure on getting the carbs off without taking off the left fairing...I was able to improve the process...I think I can get the carbs out in about 30 minutes starting from taking the seat off to just before taking the cables off.

My ? was meant for at the card end. It is not at the throttle nor the junction for they were not disassembled. The cables came off the carb end. 1 cable has 2 round lead things to hook onto the carb linkage and the other has 1 lead round thing to hook onto the carb linkage. I had the one with 2 lead thing on the more towards the left outside and the other one just to the inside of the other one. My throttle worked backwards. Guess the only thing to do is to switch the cable linkage hook up so the single lead cable is to the more left outside and the 2 lead cable it just to the inside or towards the center of the carb. Need to get new tabs and insurance first...

I installed the 2 throttle cables. I put the one with the 2 led thing-a-m-gigs on the outside and the one with only 1 thing-a-m-gig inside cable housing. The handlebar throttle grip now works backwards. So before I attempt to switch them I want to make sure that switching them is the correct thing to do.

I have a 98 Nissan Quest, since new. Never had an accident. The Passenger high & low beam went out. I swaped the bulbs and both bulbs are good. There is a left and right 15 amp headlamp fuse, and I swaped them and both the fuses are good. There is a left and right headlamp relays, and I swaped them and both the relays are good. Any Suggestions?