winston66

Check the connections to the battery. If these are ok connect a voltmeter across the battery and monitor the voltage readings when the starter button is pressed. Then report back your findings. Cheers . Winston66. Northampton, Western Australia

Hi camos (Pete). And other interested parties, I appreciate your kind comments. camos, Thank you for your interest and helpful info on GRP fabrication etc. I do not have any experience with that type of product, and when I did some preliminary costings with that stuff it seemed to be far more expensive than the alternative stuff that I eventually used and that I had some prior experience with. I do agree that the GRP would have been good and could have saved some weight . In use I have felt that a saving of say 10 Kg. might be noticeable when the trailer is stationary but the main problem that I have experienced is that when laden the center of gravity is much higher than I would like, this means that for me there is needed to be considerably more physical input when parking or moving the bike and trailer around when stopped, and especially if there is a marked amount of camber on the road , as we drive on the left hand side of the road over here and the side stand is also on the left side of the bike, sometimes a lot of effort is needed in order to get the bike off the side stand and upright before taking off. However all in all , when under way the mass of the trailer and its contents is hardly noticeable and as I have said , when the day was very windy I got the impression that the mass of the trailer really helped to stabilize the ride and added immeasurably to the comfort of the ride. However if I was to build another similar unit I would make it a little smaller and en devour to lower the center of gravity as much as possible. At the initial design stage I was influenced by the size of the chassis of the doner scooter and my own ignorance as to what the final result would be like, in other words , for me it was an experience and something to do in order to ease the symptoms of the onset of boredom. In the future This mono wheel experiment will only be used when I am riding the Royal Star trike as then I will not have to have any worries as to keeping the ride upright when parking or when stationary, If I was for instance some 40 or so years younger and as strong as I used to be then , I guess that I would feel more comfortable when muscling the combined ride and a laden trailer around but at my present age of 72 I can not see much sense in perhaps needlessly straining myself, after all the Honda ST1300 at just over 300 Kg. is more than heavy enough for me on its own . Thanks again to everyone for your interest. Cheers to all, Winston 66, Northampton, Western Australia

From my understanding the purpose of a load balance resister is only to duplicate the original load a device would see when some other component is used to replace an original component such as an incandescent light bulb. In this instance the load balance component would be wired in parallel with the new component ie. the new led or the low power demand component that is used to replace the higher current demand light bulb. This means that there will not be any power savings to the system by the use of a new substitute component as the addition of the load balance resistor does exactly as its name says . in other words the current draw through the operating circuit ,in this case the flasher unit remains the same as before so therefore it follows that the signal flashing rate will stay the same. It is my opinion that the wiring connections to your original load balancing resistor or the resistor itself has become open circuit. However as I do not know as to what type of flasher unit is used in your situation , it is possible that if it is a bi metal type, if the load balancing resister should fail by becoming less of a resistance, (short circuit), because of overheating or for some other reason , then the circuit will show less resistance to the supply voltage and the flasher unit, in which case there will be more current draw through the bi metal flasher unit and then it will operate more rapidly thereby causing the lights to flash more quickly. I guess that all of the foregoing will be as clear as mud. Cheers to all, Winston66, Northampton, Western Australia

If your volt meter has an amperage function, the first thing that I would try is to actually measure what current drain there is when the ignition switch is in the off position. Place the meter leads in series between the negative lead and the negative post of the battery. There should be a negligible amount of current draw shown, ie only what the clock would need to operate. then turn on the accessory function, the amperage reading would show how much current is being used if any of your accessories are switched on , then turn the ignition switch to the on position and see what the meter says, this will show you how much current draw the bike uses prior to starting, Ie lights and ECU draw etc. make sure that the meter is set to the ten ampere position for this test. Do not attempt to start the bike with the meter in series with the negative lead and the battery as you will either damage the meter or blow its fuse . Take a note of the various readings and the switch positions (either on or off) for the various accessories that you may switch in or out of circuit and let us know of the results. Regards , Winston66, Northampton , Western Australia

Try some compressed air injected between the foam grip and the metal bar. Cheers , Winston66, Northampton , Western Australia

Have just checked my 1996 Royal Star and I confirm that the right hand mirror has a left hand thread , which is reversed to normal rotation action, and I also have the index marks on the locking nut which confirms the left hand thread. Cheers , Winston 66

If the locking nut is indexed with marks in the edges ,It suggests to me that the mirror stand is a left hand thread . If this is so, you would have to reverse the spannering direction in order to loosen (undo) the mirror. Cheers , Winston66, Northampton, Western Australi That means you have to do it up (tighten it) in order to loosen it.

as Flyinfool said the pickup counts the teeth on the pinion, against time ,I think the ratio is something like 30 to 9 for one complete revolution of the rear wheel when it is fitted with a standard sized tyre. I would do the maths and possibly construct a suitable toothed type of signal source to replace the signal that you would get from the pinion gears, if they are not to be used in the rebuild.The new signal source could then probably placed on either the front wheel adjacent to one of the discs, or else perhaps on one of the new rear wheels, or even as a bolt on type of toothed sleeve on the new drive shaft. and also be reusing the original pickup, in the new location. For calibration purposes do a search on this forum under the heading of, Speedo Healers. There might be some good and applicable information there. I have also seen somewhere on this forum a write up where someone made a replacement of a new and calibrated face card for the original speedometer and used that in order to get an accurate read out . I hope that this helps. Cheers, Winston66, Northampton, Western Australia

Winston66 from the outback down under here in Western Australia. I have prepared a little blog with instructions on this subject. As soon ad I have the relevant photos I will complete it, and then post the instructions to this forum. Cheers, Winston66

Winston66 from Northampton Western Australia here, If my computer finger works properly this link should give you something to read. It is about my latest trailer building project https://www.dropbox.com/s/8pvw2erzrkbxjbk/mono%20wheel%20trailer%20build%20costings.pdf?dl=0 Cheers to all, Winston66

Hi everyone, Winston66 here from down under in the outback of Western Australia. I have a 1996 XVZ Royal Star which I have converted into a Trike type (4 wheeler). I will try to put up a photo but do not know if that will work. As I do not have a pillion passenger to share things with and do not use the pillion seat at all I am thinking about adding some sort of luggage rack etc and or some more chrome bits to the rear of the ride to brighten it up. These machines are very rear over here and parts like those are impossible to get. I am interested to see if anyone has anything that they do not want or will use that I could purchase. I am happy to pay via Pay Pall and also cover the shipping in advance for stuff that is reasonable. If you have something that you think that would be of interest please either PM me or email to meontop@hotmail.co.uk Cheers to all. Winston66, Northampton, Western Australia

Winston66, Northampton ,Western Australia, here. Hi tinyfox, I have just seen your post asking for info about your proposed exhaust mod. Have you had any success with it. I recently had to rebuild all of my four mufflers on my 1996 XVZ Royal Star, because the exhaust note was too loud for me and caused a headache on a long ride. If you want a louder note perhaps you could try dismantling the individual mufflers and then removing some of the fiberglass filling that is wrapped around the perforated inner tube, or else just remove about the last four inches or so of the internal baffles at the exit of the mufflers. It will be quite a bit of work to do all or any of that and if you do not have the tools or a workshop , I would think twice before attempting it. I was happy with my rebuild and the reduction in the exhaust note but it was a lot of work and entailed a complete reconstruction of the internals of each muffler. Cheers , Winston66, Northampton, Western Australia

Winston66, Northampton ,Western Australia, here. Hi tinyfox, I have just seen your post asking for info about your proposed exhaust mod. Have you had any success with it. I recently had to rebuild all of my four mufflers on my 1996 XVZ Royal Star, because the exhaust note was too loud for me and caused a headache on a long ride. If you want a louder note perhaps you could try dismantling the individual mufflers and then removing some of the fiberglass filling that is wrapped around the perforated inner tube, or else just remove about the last four inches or so of the internal baffles at the exit of the mufflers. It will be quite a bit of work to do all or any of that and if you do not have the tools or a workshop , I would think twice before attempting it. I was happy with my rebuild and the reduction in the exhaust note but it was a lot of work and entailed a complete reconstruction of the internals of each muffler. Cheers , Winston66, Northampton, Western Australia

Pulsing brake. As this problem seems to be recurring after some distance from the previous fix I wonder if, it is possible that, Has the rider subjected the rear brake rotor to washing, or some rapid cooling after a ride and getting the rear rotor fairly hot, and then quickly cooling it? I believe that some treatment like that, might cause the rotor to become somewhat warped . This would cause the pulsing as feedback through the foot pedal. Has the rotor been checked for run out or warp-age whilst on the bike. Are there any other further clues? Such as, How hot does the rotor get when riding normally? Can the rear wheel be easily spun by hand when jacked up clear of the ground? If not then there is probably too much residual pressure in the calipers to release the pistons after braking this causing an excessive heat build up in the rotor. These questions are only intended to be food for thought. Cheers, Winston66, Northampton , Western Australia

An overall draw bar length of a minimum of 1.8 times the track width of the trailer should prove to be satisfactory. and negate any effect of the tail wagging the dog, This is measured from the axle to the trailer hitch. Up to 2 X the track width should also be ok. Have you seen my write up that I mentioned in the second or third posting. Cheers, Winston66, Northampton, Western Australia