Condor

Their retail was $59 something, but the online retail seemed to be around $50, so.... I ended up paying $38 plus tax which got it up a little over $40.. $38 seemed to be about what all the online dealers were posting. I did find one though Ron Ayers for $31 but by the time I added shipping it cost more than my local dealer....

It not so much that the specs can't be replaced, but that it's off center in the flange. As far as making an aluminum adapter to fill I don't need the extra work. I got the OEM on a price matching policy with my local dealer so it wasn't a painful as it could have been. When I have time I'll take some pics...

Nice pics Dave. Brings back some great memories... I think going the most direct route and getting there quickly is something inbred in men. Sometimes it helps to escape...

My blood pressure is boarder line high. Nothing to panic over. So the doc prescribes a mild pill. Every time I take one the damn things it gets me to bouncing off the walls as I go down the hallway in the morning. No balance what's so ever. Usually takes a day or two to clear up. No way I could ride a bike. I don't take them any longer.....

OK, so off to NAPA this morning and I'm sure glad I had the eBay thermo housing with me. So much for the NAPA 156 thermo. Pulled it out of the box and tried it in the thermo body and it was way to small to work. The radius was at least 3/16th of an inch smaller than needed to stay in one place. I can't remember where I read about the NAPA 156, but it was here on the board somewhere. Anyone have a different number. I may have to bite the bullet and buy one from Yamaha...?? I need to get this puppy back on the road... or go out and buy another one... And that's what I did. After playing around with getting the thermo back into the housing and finally figuring out exactly what was wrong... the thermo is offset to one side... I popped for a new one. There is no way that an aftermarket thermo will work in the OEM housing. It has to be offset to match the relief inset. Yet another way for Yamaha to prioritize another part to just their bike... They could have designed it to take a number of aftermarkets, but no.... So to anyone reading this thread in the future forget about going cheap, and for those who have dropped an aftermarket thermo in there, it ain't working... And scratch the 156 Napa....

I picked up a complete thermo housing off eBay. $10 bucks...free ship. Checked the thermo and it didn't open up at near boil. So I'm going over to NAPA in the AM and pick up a 156. I haven't pulled the one already in the bike, but I'm willing to gamble for 6 bucks. I'm a little concerned about the 156 tho-. The pics on the NAPA site show one that has a double spring set up and it's taller than the OEM. However it does look like it'll fit in the housing. I'm taking it with me just to make sure....??

I've gotten used to it.....

Personally I'd stay away from it. It does look like it's a live-aboard with a leaky roof, and a 5th wheel too.... I bought a Terry 26 foot tow behind in like new condition for $4000 grand. 10-4 on the Victory....

With all that green, before doing anything else, I'd use Round Up......

I wonder if this has something to do with the ethanol they've been putting in the fuel??? Might be something we all need to be aware of....

Found a punch yesterday morning, and was able to drive the bearing and oil seal out of the housing and rebuild the pump body. No I didn't replace the bearing. After inspecting I couldn't find anything wrong with it. So it went back in. It had to come out to drive the seal housing out of the casting. Things are a lot tighter and the circular looseness is hardly noticeable, and it's a lot more solid feeling. Also able to remove all of the silicon off the cover side. I did find flakes of silicone in the passages. Hope they come out with the flush... Things are moving along. Time to get to the thermostat...

Have you been using Gel Cell batteries, or did you mean AGM 'absorbed glass matt' ??? Best way to check the charging system is pick up a multi-meter. Harbor Freight has them for about 6 bucks. Check the batter voltage at rest, at idle, and when running ay 2000rpm. Tell us what the readings are and I bet you'll get a ton of responses and ideas.... To get to the batt, remove the drivers saddle.

So the pumps finally off and apart. Getting that baby off was no easy chore. 'Specially the hex cap that holds the chrome tube. Getting back in there with an allen wrench was no fun. Now the fun part. I must have a half dozen drift punches to get the bearing out. Do you think I could locate just one. Lesson learned... Never loan you tools to your grandson... Off to HF this morning to buy another set. I even own a bearing puller. Couldn't find that either... Also when I finally checked the seals it looks like the oil seal had been installed backwards and just pulled out of the housing. So at this point I'm going to pick up another bearing. Might as well since I'm into it this far... Stay tuned....

Lowell... 'Wildhair' aka 'The Ambasador', wore a couple of those things out when he was tearing up the highway. That was after he wore out a couple of Ventures.... :-) I think he lived in the saddle...

Remove the eyebrows....

The female threads are located up inside the gold ring you see. The male stud portion should be mounted on the bracket where the co-ax goes into. The part that's broken in you pics is nothing more that a joint that allows the antenna to be layed down for your cover.

In this entire thread you have never posted what kind of VDC reading your getting off the battery with a multi-meter... at idle, running above 2000rpm, or after sitting over night. Knowing this would give us a really good idea of what's going on....

It's the heat exchanger that sets in the valley between the two piston banks. Years ago one of our members decided because he didn't know what the 'H' to call it he decided it looked like a twinkie. The name stuck and it's become an official part name... At least on this board... :-)

LOL) That would work.. But, I usually just stick a hose in the radiator neck and turn the water on to match the flow coming out the pump drain and run the engine for 15-20 minutes. However flushing again with vinegar would de-scale the cooling system??

I've heard about vinegar too, but vinegar will only get rid of calcium deposits and scale. Oil residue needs a degreaser... The last Purple Power I bought was at Walmart in the auto section. And since all I have is a spritzer bottle of the stuff I will need to go shopping. Auto Zone is just up the street.. :-) Worked pretty good on cleaning oily micro-fiber towels. Let'm soak overnight and they were clean in the AM...

Thanks for the info. Was wondering what kind of a mix would be OK. 1:1 should get it out.... I still haven't drained the cylinder jackets yet. Probably do that in the AM... It's getting hot around here in the afternoons.. Gonna have to price compare the purple to the green..

Well, to bad I'm not a Texas Oil Man or the owner of a malt shop. Unfortunately I ain't. Finally got around to taking the drain plug out of the radiator and this is what came out. The first 5 seconds or so it was bright green, but then the oil mix started coming out big time. I'm getting worried that I may have deeper problems then a bad water pump seal.... I'm thinking about flushing the radiator with Purple Power??

Picked up all the seals and 'o' rings needed for the service yesterday. No bearing. I'll address that if needed. They didn't have a kit listed... I think?? The slop in the impellar is rotational not lateral. So I suspect the nylon drive gear or the pin may have been chewed up..

That looks like a very weak battery to me. At Idle the stator isn't butting out any amps, and any electrical load will be handled by the battery. A new AGM battery and that will go away. I recommend DEKA...

Before going for the juggler and replacing the clutch you need to bleed it since the fluid looks dark. Empty the reserve, but before bleeding, take one of those twist ties you find in the grocery store and strip the cover off it, and use it to clean out the expansion hole in the base of the reserve. In the bottom of the reserve there are two openings. The one on the left, or toward the front of the bike, looks like there isn't a hole in it. There is. Take the wire twist and run it through the micro hole. There may be crystals that have blocked the opening. What happens is with the hole plugged the fluid expands when the engine heats up. With no place to go it starts to apply pressure to the slave which in turn pushes the rods again the pressure plate and it acts like you're pulling on the lever...and you're not. The clutch will slip... It gets worse as time goes on. On a 2006 bike your clutch shouldn't need to be rebuilt. Not yet anyway....