made2care

I placed parts back in order but cannot get pin to seat in tiny hole. Virtually impossible to do. The pin pushes down on spring and then has to seat. I tried using a heli coil tool and can't get it !!

So i'm trying to install new oil filter and a few pieces fell out of oil filter assembly, i'm assuming its the bypass? small pin, spring and metal ball. How do these parts go back in?first ball, then spring , then pin to hold spring? or should i just do a spin on mod?

So I'm restoring this classic motorcycle and have purchased many parts to bring her back to life. She has tires from 2009 but look brand new. Tread still has little nubbies. No dry rot present. Still get rid of them? I know, you want to respond by saying I'm restoring the bike anyway, therefore might as well invest in new tires. What would be wrong with the old ones?

Glad you liked the joke. I see now how this one is designed. Low profile and you're correct, just a wrench will work. I looked a little closer and see some small metal reinforcement so one can use a small screwdriver to turn. I will just leave it open per suggestions here.

I thought the 83 royale had a reserve.

I found the handle! Knew there had to be one. https://www.firehosedirect.com/handwheel-for-wharf-hydrant-valve?feed=Froogle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj-3d6dWO4wIV2bXACh0_kw2IEAQYASABEgI3EfD_BwE

Turn with a wrench?! Never heard of such a thing. Heck, if I had known that, I would have just drilled a larger hole and plugged with a wine cork. Elaborate setup galore, with fuel hose nestled nicely in middle of cork. There has to be a handle that fits over square.

Rear master cylinder is done. Definitely needed it. Here a pic of the new parts that were about to go in! Next up , probably mono shock then gas tank. My new petcock came in but I guess they don't come with a little turn knob!! Will have to try to track one down.

Just completed steering bearings. This was a first for me and here are a few things I noted. If u look at the lower race , yamaha actually has two slots in which you can use a long punch to tap it out. The upper does not and I had to very carefully dremmel that one out. Also, I used the old races to tap in the new ones but before that, I had the new ones in the freezer for a couple of hrs. I also had to make a slotted socket to torque the lower stem nut but to only 6nm. The next stem but is hand tightened and then u place the special lock washer on. I'm waiting to torque final nut after I put forks back on. Again my first time rebuilding steering head but it wasn't too bad. Next up , rebuild rear master cylinder.

Steering stem bearings are shot! Allballs on the way along with rear master cylinder rebuild kit and new fuel petcock! Sticking with original rear monoshock which still holds air! Still need to order new tires, sparkplug caps and wire. I do keep all my receipts, just hit $800 in parts.

Wow!! Lots of parts! Good for you!

Okay, I bought new copper exhaust gaskets and fitted the little rear exhaust, tightened down the special clamps and everything is snug inside the clamps , however the exhaust is not. I realize that once I get the rest of the exhaust hooked up, this smaller exhaust will stay put but it's not sealed. Any suggestions? Permatex copper gasket sealer?

Neat trick ! Took some teflon tape and wrapped around collar that fits inside the bushing. Might work!

too expensive!! but hey, thanks for finding it.

This bushing is worn and I cannot find a replacement. It appears to be a solid nylon bushing but not sure. Any suggestion? This fits into one end of the shackle/ yoke that connects to the rear mono shock.

Take pics of when you get them. For me that's the best part !!

A couple of points to note when I put frame back on engine. I had to tap a lot of the engine mount bolts as they were pretty corroded. Even with doing that, the rear bolts were tough to bolt on, probably due to not lining up perfectly. I did use Randy's solid mounts too. From what I've read, this improves handling but will have a little more vibration so there's a trade off there. I believe later models went solid mounts anyway. Correcting the valve clearance with the engine standing alone was a breeze. I highly recommend getting a kit ( I used skydocs) as it speeds things up having the right tools and shims right at your fingertips. The rest of the build should be pretty straightforward. Chow 4 now.

That's awesome. Good luck!

Well, after a few hrs and taking about 3 breaks to vent my frustration, I managed to get the engine married to its new frame. I just lifted the frame over the engine. Lots of tweaking and I must admit, this was a pain in the ars but I somehow managed to get it. Whew!! What a relief!

Here is skydoc's( earl) kit I used to fix valve clearance. Shims were easy to remove and replace with correct ones. I did end up having to order an odd size on one- 265 and a few 270's as the kit did not include those. Those should be here in a few days. I'm getting excited as I am near the big day of transplanting the engine to its better/ new frame.

very helpful, thanks

I found some on ebay.

I went with Earl's kit and it worked great,however, i am short 3 shims and I know he forewarned me of this but i don't have a dealer close by , so any help would be much appreciated. Here's what i lack 265- need one 270- need two of these. Thank you Tim

Well, the wife is packing for our trip. You know how that goes!! Since I packed my bag in 5 minutes ( 50 pairs of underwear and a few t shirts) I wandered into the garage and I heard a voice say, " hey, install that pretty new fuel pump real quick !" So..... I did!

What puc said. I have purchased many parts from them and in comparison to other places, they are very efficient and you are purchasing oem which cancels out any guesswork. Shipping can take a little longer but for the right parts its worth the wait.