Lug Nut

02 RSV 16k miles recently dropped/slid down a ditch. Broke right grip and bent/broke front brake lever. Getting everything all fixed up and ready to test drive except front brake. I replaced the lever and now I have no brake pressure or resistance to lever. Calipers don't clamp at all. No leaks. I removed the MC cover and I have pleanty of clean fluid and when I pull the lever I see a tiny bubble come up through the fluid. I am thinking I need a rebuild kit for the MC as a start BUT I thought in would get input from some of you first. The piston depresses into the MC, no fluid leaks, but I assume the rubber could be torn? Any thoughts besides rebuild kit for MC?

Instead of a dealership try to find an experienced Yamahabtech tgat doesnthe worknhimelf/for himself. I got lucky and found one that works from his home-shop and has 25 years at a dealership and does the work himself. Charges $40 / hr which is VERY reasonable for his specific knowledge base. I have done everything myself except carb jetting (had the tech do that). It's awfully nice knowing that I can drop off a bike to him and HE is doing the work and is accountable and I don't have to talk to a service manager about their dumas $15/hr wrench who hasn't worked on a Yamaha before and why I am being charged $100/hr for piss poor work, loose bolts, and scratches.

Got my Morgan Carbtune with pouch and it was $94 delivered. Used it last week and it makes a big difference....like installing new plugs in place of old fouled out ones for comparison. Once you identify the screws to adjust it's pretty easy. I will probably don't his every oil change. I notice the bike seems to Rev a little higher before wanting to shift, feels tigjter. Sounds better, snoother, just better overall. For the money it's silly not to have one compared to buying some chrome doo dad or other cosmetic piece.

That is actually a very good price for all the work you involved and quoted. However I have minimal experience with motorcycle mechanics other than knowing that they're not that great! LOL. I have one Yamaha technician in my area that is wonderful and fair. I do pretty much everything myself on 3 yamahas I've owned it for the past year. I do it not to save money but because I know that I will do it right and that the mechanics at a bike shop may not work on my specific model very often. I feel that Harley mechanics are actually quite good because I have a lot of practice working on bikes. Not kidding just stating the fact that HD require a lot more maintenance than yamaha's do. I would be very very skeptical but they did every single thing listed on that repair order for that price however. Think how easy it would be for them to say yes we did all of that. You would not know, because you're not going to tear it apart and double check. You're going to write it for another Twenty Thousand Miles and everything will be just fine. Realistically if you didn't touch anything on that bike in the next twenty thousand miles other than tired it would probably be just fine. At least in terms of your writing experience.

Got it all adjusted 2.5 turns out and carbs synced.....worked out great....thanks.

1998 RSTC 43k miles. Bone stock mechanically, all service done EXCEPT I don't know if valve clearance has ever been checked. Ran fine (to me after tune up and fluid changes. I used the Morgan Carbtune to sync carbs, set warm 1dle at 1050 to do this then back down a little to 950-975, and set idle air screw (what apparently I mistakingly referred to as pms) to 2.5 turns out. The carbs were way out and now are perfectly Lined up on the meter. Haven't ridden it yet but hope to feel the difference. I followed the instructions on this site and the manual BUT on my bike you access the left side cats from the rigjt side and vice versa. The syncing of bank 1/2 and 3/4 is also done from the left side (all adjustments done with long phillips). I made 3 youtube videos showing dead cold startup with Carbtune hooked up, then how it reads after nearly 20 minutes of idling (but still not adjusted) and then howbto rods look all adjusted and how it sounds.

Was setting warm idle with EZ Tach today....and hooked up Morgan Carbtune to sync the carbs. While adjusting idea ibwas really listening to exhaust. Bike is all mechanically stock, changed every fluid/filter/plugs etc. 43k miles. Runs great. I do get popping on decel with stock carb/air box and filyer/pipes. Ibwas thinking I may need to tweak pms. What is the stock setting for this bike? 1.5 - 2 turns out? Thanks...

Ordered the Carbtune II prob with pouch....think it was $94 shipped....will use on both bikes and see how it works!

I had removed the disc covers but I like the slutty chrome. Maybe we I strip and repaint the stock wheels I'll leave them off.... http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq14/sbojrab/Mobile%20Uploads/20160810_115808_zpsvxy4au9c.jpg http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq14/sbojrab/Mobile%20Uploads/20160810_115837_zpsqn56n9uf.jpg http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq14/sbojrab/Mobile%20Uploads/20160810_115824_zpscxitjdtj.jpg

Is this the one I need? Motion Pro 08-0411 Syncpro Carburetor Tuner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K7JHWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.6kQxb0B5QGA0 And do I need to order the 6mm adapters? Thanks

These things only have 75 hp....doubt you would get much hp for the trouble and $$$ of complete exhaust.

Can't beat a roady for simplicity, ease of maintenance, price, etc. Air cooled V Twin....nothing to go wrong. I recently sold mine and want another one to stick in the garage. Put a Roadwing shock and ED seat and it's a fatanstic in town bike.

Seafoam every month or so....marvel mystery oil every other fI'll up

I have had great luck with using full synthetic Mobil 1 4t engine oil, Prestone Synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid, and Skydoc_17 whole kit with stiffer spring g and getting rid of wire and half plate. I also have replaced clutch slave cylinder and rebuilt master cylinder. Finally...bought a $35 power bleeder from Harbor Freight that attaches to an air compressor. Done this on a 2002 RSV and a 1998 RSTC with perfect results.

I am going to put in 1.5 in spacers for my risers and also push the forks up an inch or more to lower the front. I am hoping the stock cables will work, anybody done this? Also, I assume with the spacers installed I will have ample room for air valve on top of shock even when pushed up.

Works great! I put one in my RSV a couple months ago and my 98 has 41k miles on it and I have been whipping on it showing Harleys all about V4's. Clutch was slipping in 4th and 5th Soni figured it was time. I got the whole kit with heavier clutch spring and install was easy and it works fantastic The clutch pull is not much stiffer than before but the entire riding experience is better with a new strong clutch. Highly recommend this kit when it's time to replace!

What exact oil and filter did you use?

Going for a sleek vintage stripped down look. Took lots of stuff off the bike and polished some things....bike is filthy...just got it back together from changing fork oil and removing fork tins. I'm digging the look so far.. http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq14/sbojrab/Mobile%20Uploads/20160707_215013_zpsjz8fas3p.jpg http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq14/sbojrab/Mobile%20Uploads/20160707_215021_zpsa0d8mtaw.jpg http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq14/sbojrab/Mobile%20Uploads/20160707_215032_zpsx4yaail7.jpg http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq14/sbojrab/Mobile%20Uploads/20160707_215042_zpsbtrydghn.jpg

Did Yamaha ever make a quick release bracket windshield for the 1996 - 1998 Royal Star? Looking for something that would be a quick release stock or aftermarket windshield for my 1998 Royal Star tour classic.

Thanks for the replies. I didn't want to spend all weekend doing this if not necessary. My 98 has 40k miles and runs great and gets 42-45 mpg in town and ha had ALL other maintenance done very recently. This is something i would probably take to a mechanic and didn't want to waste $300+ doing this work.

Curious as to who all have had valve issues and what mileage Also, if you checked and/or adjusted valves and at what mileage?

Got the wheel tire and fender off, brake calipers tied up out of way...working on draining fork oil now. What is the easiest way to remove the fork covers (top and bottom)? I removed pinch bolts from neck, and removed the 2 bolts on the bridge that seem to secure the bottom fork covers. Do I need to loosen the fork nut? I am not tearing down the forks, just drained, flushed, and refilling with fresh oil. Edit / Delete Edit Post Quick reply to this message Reply Reply With Quote Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message

Got the wheel tire and fender off, brake calipers tied up out of way...working on draining fork oil now. What is the easiest way to remove the fork covers (top and bottom)? I removed pinch bolts from neck, and removed the 2 bolts on the bridge that seem to secure the bottom fork covers. Do I need to loosen the fork nut? I am not tearing down the forks, just drained, flushed, and refilling with fresh oil.

Used GPS app on phone tonight....0-40 mph speedo is 1 mph shy....40-80 mph it is 2 mph shy. My Roadstar and RSV were much further off...like 5-8 mph shy. Thought it interesting that my oldest highest mileage bike reads the most accurate.

I'm gonna put a Stebel air horn on it and figure out something better looking than the Mustang fender bib to cover up the holes from the seat bracket. Love the old school look/vibe of this bike. Gets a lot of looks for a cheapy old Yammi! Been asked what kind of Harley and what kind of Indian it is so far!