Flyinfool

In the current floor I can see the outlines of the trench they dug to put the pipe in originally. My house was built before indoor plumbing was available, so it was added at a later date. I can see where the floor was done one 5 gallon bucket of cement at a time, there is a seam every couple of feet, the edges of the original trench was broken out by hammer so they are jagged, IF I use a saw I will cut outside of the existing trench so that I have room to get a shovel down alongside of the pipe and end up with clean edges. Clean edges also makes it easier to calculate just how much concrete I will need to patch the floor. I am pretty sure that if I try to lift out square sections of floor that they will just crumble with all the seams in them. If I do make saw cuts I will just break up the interior parts. The last area that I did was pretty easy to break, it is really weak cement. Heck even my washing machine feet are working their way into the floor. I had to put steel plates under each foot to spread the load. You should see the plates that are needed under the big heavy machines. If I rent the saw with a vac that is supposed to be dust free and specifically made to collect concrete dust, it is $60 for 4 hours. Goes up to $85 for a full day if I go over the 4 hours. Either way it does not come with a blade. I have to buy the blade for $22 and I get to keep it at the end of the job. I am thinking that 34 feet of cut should take less than 4 hours, that 4 hour clock is only running during store hours. So if I get it in the evening I can have it all night and bring it back in the next morning for the 4 hour rate.

In the current floor I can see the outlines of the trench they dug to put the pipe in originally. My house was built before indoor plumbing was available, so it was added at a later date. I can see where the floor was done one 5 gallon bucket of cement at a time, there is a seam every couple of feet, the edges of the original trench was broken out by hammer so they are jagged, IF I use a saw I will cut outside of the existing trench so that I have room to get a shovel down alongside of the pipe. I am pretty sure that if I try to lift out square section of floor that they will just crumble with all the seams in them. If I do make saw cuts I will just break up the interior parts. The last area that I did was pretty easy to break, it is really weak cement. Heck even my washing machine feet are working their way into the floor. I had to put bigger steel plates under each foot to spread the load. You should see the plates that are needed under the big machines. If I rent the saw with a vac that is supposed to be dust free and specifically made to collect concrete dust, it is $60 for 4 hours. Goes up to $85 for a full day if I go over the 4 hours. Either way it does not come with a blade. I have to buy the blade for $22 and I get to keep it at the end of the job. I am thinking that 34 feet of cut should take less than 4 hours, that 4 hour clock is only running during store hours. So if I get it in the evening I can have it all night and bring it back in the next morning for the 4 hour rate.

I need a hole about 2 feet by 12-15 feet. I am pricing rentals of a saw and vac system. I tried a concrete blade in my circle saw and it was just WAY to much dust, and that was just after the first foot of cut. That much dust is not an option. My basement is full of dust sensitive equipment. It is very hard to shield everything from that very abrasive dust.

I looked at my propane heater and it is a Remington brand 30,000 - 55,000 btu. What is nice with propane or natural gas or electric, it don't stink. Kero or diesel both stink. Of course there are always options and what is/was best for one person may not be at all appropriate for another persons situation. Safety is always appropriate no matter which road you choose.

Every pup I ever got was gun shy at first, It does not take long at all to make them LOVE the sound of a gun going off. They figure out real quick that bang means a mouthful of fur or feathers and to then there aint nuttin better.

I have a small propane torpedo heater That I have used for heating a 2 car garage enough to thaw out several deer that were frozen solid. It only took it a half hour to chase me out of the garage from the heat. I will have to look at it to see what its btu rating is. I also have a 30,000 2 burner radiant heater that mounts to the top of the propane tank. That one work great for use outdoors as it is not trying to heat the air, it is the IR that is heating me. I used to have a 250,000 btu kerosene torpedo heater that I rigged up with a thermostat so it could maintain a temp over long periods of time. When I ran that in a 2 car garage with outside temps near zero F. It would cycle on for 5 minutes and then off for a half hour to keep the temp a steady 65°F. I kept the over head door cracked 3.5 inches (a 2x4 on edge) for ventilation and that was plenty. It was only cold to lay on the floor under a car. because the cold air coming in under the door would hug the floor. When I eventually added a small cheap ceiling fan that helped a LOT. I found out that it was 30°F at the floor and nearly 100°F at the peak of the roof. The fan kept it all close to the same temp. It is also very well worth the money to get a GOOD CO detector that has a readout to tell you what the actual level is, as well as an O2 detector to keep track of the oxygen level. A heater with a flame that does not have an outside exhaust have use up all the oxygen in a garage and has a similar effect to CO poisoning, You don't know you have an issue until it is 2 late. Some heater have a built in shutoff that will put out the fire if the O2 levels get low. NOT all have this and I do not know if I trust it.

I will see if I can find a pawn shop around here. I did check on ebay and Craigs list for used ones in the area. For the 2 times I will use it a used one may be just fine. Based on the last time I had to put a hole in the floor the floor is only about 2 inches thick and a very poor grade of concrete. I was easily able to break it up with a 2 lb ball peen hammer. The floor is just strong enough that my air chisel was not enough. I am going to try to sneak past the washer and dryer and not have to move them. I will put temp feet about 1 foot back from the front and let the feet of the stand hang over air while I work.

Not quite sure which of these it is comparable to. https://www.harborfreight.com/105-amp-1-916-in-sds-max-type-pro-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-kit-63441.html https://www.harborfreight.com/125-Amp-SDS-Max-Type-Pro-Demolition-Hammer-Kit-63437.html Can you get a pic of the data plate on the tool. That should have all the real info.

I never run out of PEST!!!.....

As mentioned the tach is driven from the primary side of the #2 coil, the tach dropping to zero proves you have an electrical issue.

Who me? Put on a wing???? I said it was capable of lifting the front wheel, I never said it was a good idea. i only learned that it could by accident, when a Hardly tried (unsuccessfully) to pass me........But him seeing my front come up sure did get my point across.

The Venture will easily lift the front wheel off the ground in 1st and 2nd gear. I have never seen a stock Venture lift the front in 3rd, 4th or 5th. But it will get light on the front. Even with the weight that she is haulin. And I aint real small either. But then I have never tried real hard to do it either. Approaching red line in 3rd, 4th or 5th exceeds the speed of my guardian angle.

i have a pretty good idea of how heavy they can get. I carried 40 feet of brick chimney out of the house in 5 gal buckets.A little over 500 bricks and I could fit 10 in a 5 gal bucket that weighed about 75 lbs EACH. and the last plumbing fiasco last year around this time was around 25 buckets and I did it all by myself, That one I was under the gun as the plumbing was not functional at the time. At least this time IF I can do it right I can spread out the digging over a week or two, AND I have help lined up, yes it will take a lot of pizza and Hawaiian Punch followed up by a steak dinner. I can also spread the hole filling and cement work out over a month. IF all goes as planned the actual plumbing part should only take a half day from breaking the old pipe to being able to flush again. Yup, there are a LOT of IF's in there.

The kit from Skydoc has an adapter bracket to mount the manifold on the triple tree.

@cowpuc Once we were able to get the drain camera down there with the sonde we were able to pin point the location of the break. It is exactly under my basement wall, which is about 6-7 feet from where the gas co was digging. My plumber pointed out that the gas co has a whole legal team that does nothing but fight claims of them breaking underground stuff. He personally had one case where the gas co fought it even though the gas line went right thru the center of the pipe, easily visible in the sewer cam pics and pics taken during the repair. The gas co lost that one but the home owner still had to take it to court and fight for it. Mine is far enough away that it would be really hard to prove that this was due to the gas co activities, especially with another break dead center of my basement. At least this I am planning to get a small rotary hammer to help break up the floor, and then I have some other plans for that tool so it will not end up a one time use tool. Exactly which one did you get that worked well for you? @mabeline The math says that this will be about 1 yard of material to haul out of the basement and then 1 yard of new material to haul into the basement. 1 yard of material is equal to ~22 bushels or 40 5 gallon buckets. Of course it is not just the hauling it out of the basement it is also the hauling it off for disposal. I did call a local rental place and to rent a conveyor is $130 per day. In talking to the rental place, the conveyor is more made for outdoor use, as it will be very difficult to get it into a basement. Hhhhmmmmmm..... I do have a big shop vac, I wonder if it would lift the dirt out of the basement and then just have 2 people lift it up to dump in the back of my P/U truck, wash rinse and repeat about 20 times.

I think it might be down rite dangerous if we lived across the street from each other....... Maybe even illegal...... I have been told that I do NOT need any encouragement. Just think how accurate I could be with the nozzles at that range, pile it all right in front of your door.....

I am at the moment leaning toward doing it myself. If I can suddenly come up with the funds, I'll let someone else do it. I do have some suc......... Volunteers to help me with the digging.

Hey Puc, grab that receiver and take a quick swim across the pond, (it's not that cold, trust me ) I just happen to know someone with a milling machine hiding in the basement, get those holes good to 4 decimal places.

Unless you really burned the clutch while it was slipping it will be just fine after another oil change. You do not necessarily need another new filter but I would take the current new filter out to drain that oil and maybe even wash and dry the filter and reuse it. I would also remove the bottom screw of the middle gear cover and put the bike on the side stand to drain the contaminated oil out of the transmission. Even though you changed the oil there is still nearly a quart of the lucas contaminated oil still in there, the next oil change will have it cleared out.

Before you take it all apart, check to be sure the caliper ends of the VMax hoses are correct for you Venture calipers. I thought they pointed in different directions so need different hose ends?

When applying the glass cloth you do not need to sand it down first, just clean it with some alcohol to remove any grease or oil. The solvents in the ABS cement will dissolve the surface of the part anyhow so the sanding will not matter. IF you are using an epoxy glue then you do need to sand to give some tooth for the glue to try to hold on to. As far as flexibility, because the glass cloth is fully embedded in ABS it will remain just as flexible as the rest of the ABS. It is when glass is embedded in something hard like epoxy or polyester resin which cures hard that the result will be brittle. When I did my front bumper using the glass cloth and ABS cement it was loaded with cracks, it was like putting a jigsaw puzzle back together the entire inside of that fender was coated with glass cloth and ABS cement. after the repair the fender was still just as flexible and you could not see any of the cracks in the paint unless you looked really close. It never did crack again either.

I used @skydoc_17s delinking kit. It has all of the Stainless lines you need along with instructions.

Speaking of race guns. I used to do a lot of bowling pin shoots with a shotgun (and many other guns). With my 11-87 I got to the point that I was waiting for the next round to finish chambering so I could shoot again. this was limiting me to 5 pins in 2.6 seconds. I did some playing with changing out springs and going to titanium parts and have gotten it down to 2.3 seconds. I still need to find ways to get the gun faster, I am still waiting for the gun. But it sure is fun messing with stuff. I do still use this same gun for birds, small game and deer hunting. Even though I did all the work to get it faster it will still function perfectly with the lightest trap loads up to the heaviest 3" magnum loads.

You have an electrical problem that is affecting the #2 cylinder. The tach is driven from the primary side of the #2 coil. The tach going to zero is the clue as to where to start. It means that there is no signal to the #2 wiring.

The 1st gen does not have an oil pressure switch. It does have an oil level switch which should be off if there is oil in the bike. So that one is not an issue either. This light can occasionally lite up under hard acceleration as all of the oil sloshes to the rear of the engine and the float that is near the front will show a low oil level. the oil pickup is toward the rear so this does NOT indicate a problem. There is no charge indicator light either, there is a battery electrolyte level light. Many 1st gens have that bypassed because many new batteries do not have the extra hole to put the sensor in. Now all your problems are gone.........