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Ok ... finally got around to pulling the bike apart to check the u-joint.

 

Got the rear wheel and final drive off.

 

Can't get the swingarm off because the nuts are too big. The biggest socket I have is 27 mm bought for the rear axle.

 

I will have to go buy a larger socket for the swingarm and, from the look of things, a large hex key socket to fit my torque wrench.

 

Can anyone tell me what size both of these are ? I can't find the size in the service manual.

 

Stores are closed here today so I guess I will have to finish the job later.

 

Thanks in advance.

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Ok ... finally got around to pulling the bike apart to check the u-joint.

 

Got the rear wheel and final drive off.

 

Can't get the swingarm off because the nuts are too big. The biggest socket I have is 27 mm bought for the rear axle.

 

I will have to go buy a larger socket for the swingarm and, from the look of things, a large hex key socket to fit my torque wrench.

 

Can anyone tell me what size both of these are ? I can't find the size in the service manual.

 

Stores are closed here today so I guess I will have to finish the job later.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

If I am remembering correctly, a 1 & 3/16 cocket will work nicely (6 point preferable), a 14 mm for the other side (I used an old caliper mounting bolt, double nutted it).

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Thanks guys.

 

Rocket, your memory is good. I ran the math and figured it was 30 mm. With the stores closed here today, I couldn't go shopping. I borrowed a 1 3/16" socket and a 14 mm hex end socket and pulled the bike apart.

 

The job went well. My u-joint is fine. Not sure if that is good news or bad news. The clutch hub in the rear wheel needed grease. The splines that fit into the wheel were dry.

 

All has been cleaned and greased and I am in the reassembly stage. I hope my scraping noise is gone because I am not sure where to check next.

 

I do not have a torque wrench small enough to tighen the right hand pivot shaft at

4.3 ft·lb so I'm going to have to ballpark it. Anyone have any ideas how far I should go after I have contact (for example, 1/4 turn, or 1 turn etc...) ?

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Need to check the nut that holds the yoke on the shaft coming out of the pinion gear. One of our members just had his break. There is a crush washer behind there that can loosen up. He had a "scraping sound" also........

 

Dan

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Yeah I checked the output shaft on Friesman's recommendations. I can't move it either way and all seems fine.

 

There was only a small drop of oil in the bottom of the rubber boot and no visible oil anywhere. I don't think anyone ever pulled this baby apart before (judging from the appearance of the driveshaft the last time I had it apart) so I figure one drop of oil every 47,000 km must be OK.

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I do not have a torque wrench small enough to tighen the right hand pivot shaft at

4.3 ft·lb so I'm going to have to ballpark it. Anyone have any ideas how far I should go after I have contact (for example, 1/4 turn, or 1 turn etc...) ?

 

 

Have your hand on the head of the ratchet, do it up without a lot of force (just snug), that should be about right.:2cents:

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I should say, however, that when I put the bike in gear, there was a small amount of play when I manually turned the u-joint clockwise then counterclockwise. I am assuming that that is also normal.

 

Yup there should be some backlash, otherwise it may start to sound like a 2nd gen (or you break middle gear) & you don't want that.

 

:stirthepot::canada:

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I usually head for the pawn shop to shop for single use sockets. I have quite a collection, since I figure I can pay a mechanic $100 to fix it, or buy $100 of tools and fix it myself. I drove a VW for years, and it has all kinds of bolts that don't come in the standard socket sets.

 

Get a set of hex bit (allen) sockets- probably won't find them at the pawn shop. I use them a lot, and seldom need the allen wrenchs these days. It works for your brakes on your car (unless you have the kind with Torx bolts for your calipers). You need a set of torx bit sockets, too, but not for this job.

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